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The L.A. Times in 60 seconds: Cheesecake, tomatillos and online cooking school

Here's what you can find in Today's Los Angeles Times Food Section (Wednesday, May 14, 2008)

Former mayor Richard Riordan already runs two iconic L.A. restaurants -- downtown's Original Pantry and Malibu's famous Gladstone's for Fish. But never one to rest on his laurel's, he's added three more to his lineup: Riordan's Tavern, the Oak Room and the Village Pantry.

Love cheesecake? So does Amy Scattergood.

Who needs cooking school? Learn how to cook online.

Cooking with tomatillos.

The wine memoir is becoming drinkable. Three wine writers swirl their memories in book form; Alice Feiring, Neal I. Rosenthal and Sergio Esposito.

Reseda...or Istanbul? It's hard to tell the difference sometimes. A review of Sako's Mediterranean Cuisine.

Wine of the week: It's still possible to find a good bottle of white burgundy for under $30.

The Los Angeles Times in 60 Seconds: Bees, Brandy, and Beans

honey panna cotta
California's almond industry is suffering as a result of Colony Collapse Disorder, but the secret death of bees isn't keeping area pastry chefs from using honey: Wildflower honey, apple and goat cheese tart, Honey shortcakes with honey-pine nut gelato, and Recipe: Acacia panna cotta.

The interplay of textures between greens and beans make for a good meal: Cranberry bean, lacinato kale and pasta soup, Warm salad of black-eyed peas, wilted mustard greens and bacon, and Dandelion green and Christmas lima bean tacos.

In drinking, you can make your own version of southwestern France's ratafia brandy, use a stemless glass perfect for picnics, and sip SIV's Wine of the Week, 2005 Luigi Pira Langhe Nebbiolo 'Le Ombre.'

March 5, 2008 - Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

dumpling party
Regina Schrambling shows us how to host a Dumpling Party, with recipes for Seafood Dumplings, Vegetable Dumplings, Pork Dumplings, Dumpling Dipping Sauce, Five-spice Snickerdoodles, Cheater's Scallion Pancakes, and a comparison of Dumpling Wrappers.

Also in the kitchen, cook with jamon iberico, add tang with tamarinds, and bake Coconut Cupcakes from Auntie Ems.

On the dining scene, SIV gives new tapas joint Bar Pintxo 1½ stars and Fraiche is doing so well in Culver City, it's already thinking of expanding to additional locations.

To drink, Prosecco gets serious and the Wine of the Week is 2006 Paolo Scavino Dolcetto d'Alba.

Spring is in the Air: Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

shrimp and artichoke soup for spring

Global: The Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds


This week, the Los Angeles Times Food section touches on every corner of the world:

All About Apples: Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

baked apple ice cream - la times
This week in Food at the LA Times, Russ Parsons goes to town with Heirloom apples with a Guide to Apple Varieties and answering the age-old question, To bake or not to bake?. Recipes include Baked Apple Ice Cream, Boozie's Apple Cake, and Maple Baked Apples with Dried Fruit and Nuts.

Also in the kitchen, Rosh Hashana recipes to celebrate the Jewish New Year: Kibbeh bi'kizabrath (cilantro-tomato soup with Syrian meatballs), Rubuh' (roast veal stuffed with spiced ground meat and rice), and Ejjeh b'kerrateh (leek fritters).

In restaurants, SIV visits the newly re-opened Ca'Brea and gives it a half star, LA chefs try serving cocktails with or as the amuse bouche.

The most interesting article of the day (in my opinion, of course) is from Regina Schrambling who ponders the anonymity of restaurant reviewers from professional journalists to bloggers (and if you happen to recognize a mysterious half face on the article, yes, that is yours deliciously!)

Santa Barbara Retreat: Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

santa barbara retreat
Looks like the entire staff of the Los Angeles Times food section went on a retreat over the long weekend to Santa Barbara, with the entire section dedicated to the "local" wine country.

Kid, Keggers, and Korean: Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

korean buckwheat noodles - naeng myun
It's an endless summer in LA:

White Hot Summer: Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

tokaj and blue cheese
This week, the Los Angeles Times dedicates its entire Food section to white wines, very appropriate for summer!

Tacos, Tangerines, and Traxx: Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

yellowtail taco
In the kitchen, Amy Scattergood goes gourmet glam with tacos, with recipes for Achiote-marinated fish tacos, Duck tacos with chile-cherry compote, and Shrimp tacos with pumpkin seed sauce. To go with those tacos, some sangria, or refreshing tea-infused ices and granitas from the Times' archives. Product pick for the kitchen is organic clementine preserves from Les Comtes de Provence.

On the restaurant scene, Russ Parsons looks at what it really means for a restaurant to be "green." Speaking of "green," LA chefs are making Caesar salads from non-traditionally Caesar ingredients like butter lettuce and frisee. S. Irene Virbila goes to Traxx restaurant and gives it 1½ stars.

New Orleans parish bans taco trucks

taco truckNew Orleans now offers a soulful culinary phenomenon that's more often seen on the streets of New York City or Los Angeles: taco trucks.

Residents of New Orleans have embraced the mobile taquerias' offerings, including al pastor and pork tacos. Some even go for the more exotic cow's head and tongue varieties, both of which are some of my favorites. Even though the public has warmed up to a type of restaurant little known before an influx of Latinos came to the state seeking reconstruction work, Jefferson Parish officials have recently banned the trucks. The new law gave vendors only 10 days to set up restrooms and washing stations. I've certainly wished for both of these amenities after wolfing down a few tacos de carnitas on the streets of Jackson Heights, Queens. But it's simply not going to happen. It should be pointed out that if my fair city banned the taco trucks, there's a fair chance that I'd soon find myself living in L.A.

But back to the story at hand. Jeff Parish pols raised concerns that the mobile kitchens are unsanitary, even though state health officials found nothing wrong. As the article I read pointed out, the taco trucks are embroiled in a food fight of sorts. To be sure, racisim also plays a role in the ban, but so does a concern that the cuisine of Puebla threatens the historic foodways of the Big Easy. New Orleans City Council President Oliver Thomas recently asked, "How do the tacos help gumbo?"

The burning question for me is something more along the lines of, "How soon can I get me a boudin noir taco?

Thrillist's Late Night Gorging Card

thrillist late night gorging cars
Is it 1 AM already? Honey, you must be starved!

Thanks to the thrillseekers over at Thrillist, you can keep a list of all the joints that are open late in a handy little card in your wallet -- easy to pull out when you're stumbling out of th abr after Last Call and need a place to direct that cab before heading home.

The Thrillist.com Late Night Gorging Card has restaurants listed by region with addresses, and asterisks to indicate which ones are open all through the night. This particular card is for Los Angeles, but we think there should be one of these for every city. Heck, why dont' we star one right now! If you know of a late night or 24-hour place in your 'hood, let us know in the comments!

Los Angeles Times Food section in 60 seconds

los angeles  times verrine
Veritable artistry in something we're not quite with familiar with: verrine. What is it? A verrine is a French import, something like a terrine, with layers of ingredients in a small glass that is either an appetizer or a dessert, and is becoming increasingly popular with chefs on this side of the Atlantic.

Speaking of imports, what's not to love about the life of a wine importer?

In the kitchen, get your rolling pins out for the perfect pie crust you can trust. Also, a recipe for slow-roasted roasted pork shoulder and a few breads.

SIV visits Vertical, a new wine bistro in Pasadena and gives it one star (*).

Year of the Pig: LA Times Food section in 60 seconds

pork raguThe LA Times heads into the Year of the Pig with a full section dedicated to pork, Chinese cooking, and restaurants.

Russ Parsons sings the praises of pork, with recipes for Cider-brined pork chops with wild rice, Ragù with pork ribs, sausage and pancetta, and Five-spice roast pork belly. Also included: an information box with resources for top pork in Los Angeles.

Perfect for Chinese cooking, it's high season on the farmers' markets for baby bok choy and yu choy. Vickie Fan, of restaurant Beacon in Culver City, shares recipes that make good use: Scrambled eggs with garlic chives , Stir-fried baby bok choy, and Ru yi cai ('As you wish' vegetables).

If you're not cooking at home, then you can do contemporary dim sum from Mission 261 in San Gabriel Valley or any number of Chinese restaurants that have quite a history there, or pick up Asian sweets and pastries from Phoenix.

January Summer: LA Times Food section in 60 seconds

mozza's caprese
Despite the cold weather and overcast skies that have suddenly turned into storm clouds, southern Californians seem to think it's...summer? The Los Angeles Times Food section today was about grilling, salads, ad margaritas.

Next Page >

Tip of the Day

Have you ever stashed a Coke in the freezer, hoping to chill it quickly, then forgotten all about it, only to have it explode all over your frozen peas?

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