"Haggis" news and stories

The U.S. government is reconsidering its ban on Scotland's national dish haggis.

The Department of Agriculture has shot down rumors that the sausage – made by rolling the cooked innards of a sheep (its heart, liver and lungs) in oats and pepper, then stuffing it in cow's intestine and boiling it – will be allowed in the United States any time soon.

The Scottish delicacy has been barred from this country since the late '80s mad cow outbreak in the U.K.

At the request of Scottish officials, the USDA is reviewing the risks of the dish and the ban on it, according to The Associated Press.

USDA spokeswoman Lindsay Cole issued a statement saying reports that the ban will be lifted are incorrect and though the latest science is being examined, no timetable has been set for a decision.

When I signed up for the Burns' Night dinner at St. Andrews Restaurant, I was pretty excited. Not only would I be able to enjoy haggis and other Scottish specialties, but I would also have a great post for Slashfood. Unfortunately, Monika Bartyzel got here ahead of me and did a pretty damned good job of talking up the wonders of the "Great chieftain o' the pudding race." Still, having spent an evening eating offal, sipping scotch, and listening to highland poetry, I'm not quite ready to give up...

My introduction to haggis came on a family trip to Scotland. My mother, who was Jewish and had never quite understood my father's extreme dislike of spices, bought A Feast of Scotland by Janet Warren. As we drove around the countryside, she tore through the tome, alternately giggling, gagging, and exclaiming "You're FREAKING joking!" At the end of all of this, she gazed upon my father and told him that she finally understood his problem. The cookbook featured exactly two spices: salt and pepper, and occasionally exhorted its readers to "add suet to taste." While there is a lot to be said for environment, it was clear that heredity had had at least some effect on my dad's palate.

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In celebration of yesterday's Robert Burns Day, I thought I'd introduce you all to the world of haggis.

Now don't recoil and run screaming in the other direction. Haggis' urban legend bark is much worse than any bite you could take of the Scottish food. Really, the whole anti-haggis stance doesn't make much sense. Usually larger versions of foods get applauded and loved, but haggis gets the pointy end of the leftover meat sword. It doesn't have the widespread appeal of its cousin, the hot dog, nor the culinary adoration of cousin #2, the sausage.

But it's just a spicy, tasty meatloaf sort of food stuffed in innards, whether they be intestines, stomach, or other lining. In fact, if you're like me, your first bite of haggis will make you think that you're being played and fed ground beef instead. Scots knew what they were doing. This isn't a food where you try to bring out the delicate flavors of the pluck. It's boiled, ground with tasty bits like onions and oatmeal, and heavily spiced so that it slides down with deliciousness, rather than revulsion.

Slop it on a plate with neeps and tatties, and you can't go wrong.

Is there that owre his French ragout,
Or olio that wad staw a sow,
Or fricassee wad mak her spew
Wi' perfect sconner,
Looks down wi' sneering, scornfu' view
On sic a dinner? -- Robert Burns

In case you forgot, January 25 marks Robbie Burns day -- the day where we delight in Scottish poetry by the master, and indulge in the wonders of haggis.

These days, I'm not so sure why the meal is considered so revolting. It might be encased in intestines, but it's a meal that includes forgotten meats like "sheep's pluck," and a saute of tasty additions like onions, spices, and stock. A food that uses all of the animal, let's your drink to the tune of bagpipes, and allows you to recite rowdy poetry? What could be better?