"Cookbook of the Day" news and stories

'The Jewish Heritage Cookbook'
Recipes by Marlena Spieler
Photographs by William Lingwood
Lorenz Books -- 2004
Buy It on Amazon

A rebuke to those whose idea of Jewish cooking is limited to such gut-busting fare as kugel and knishes, "The Jewish Heritage Cookbook" is an eye-opening and mouthwatering survey of the traditions and recipes of the global Jewish Diaspora. While the more recognizable stalwarts of Ashkenazi (or Eastern European) Jewish cooking do get their due (there are no less than six recipes for kugel), Spieler also dedicates ample space to the foods of the Sephardim, Jews who settled in Spain, Portugal and North Africa, paying particular attention to the rich culinary heritage of Moroccan Jews.

Spieler also provides plenty of context for her recipes: a lengthy introduction delves into the history of Jewish migration across the globe, dietary traditions and laws, the culinary significance of various holidays, and the definitions and usage of traditional foods and ingredients. Spieler's book is as much reference guide as cookbook -- not only will you learn how to make something like like lamb with globe artichokes, you'll also learn about the significance of artichokes to the Italian Jews who created the dish.

See what we tested and whether it's worth buying after the jump.

'How to Cook Everything (Completely Revised 10th Anniversary Edition)'
Recipes by Mark Bittman
Wiley -- 2008
Buy It on Amazon

The Minimalist's take on cooking has pretty much become the last decade's go-to wedding present for young couples who haven't yet discovered their culinary chops. In his now Beard-award-winning update, Mark Bittman adds lexicons, reorganizes recipes and focuses on home cooking, "leaving most of that [restaurant food] behind."

In the 10 years since the debut of "How to Cook Everything," Bittman's own fame has grown exponentially as evidenced by his recent PBS roadtrip to Spain with A-lister Gwyneth Paltrow (with Mario Batali along for the ride). Maybe that's why some recipes get a bump up in stature. In 1998, his spicy shrimp recipe was titled "Shrimp, My Way"; in the new edition it's "The Simplest and Best Shrimp Dish."

But when you've essentially created a generation's "Joy of Cooking," you can afford to brag ... even if it's only about your shrimp.

See what we tested and whether it's worth buying after the jump.

'Appetite'
Nigel Slater
Clarkson Potter -- 2000
Buy it at Amazon

Anyone titling a recipe "Classic, Unmucked-About-With Roast Chicken" is going to get our attention. Our Brooklyn kitchen measures 5-feet by 7-feet, so we're enormous fans of simple, hearty fare. So is Nigel Slater, an English toque who only uses a handful of seasonal ingredients in his recipes and would not take kindly to the notion that "back to basics" is some brand-new trend (this book printed in 2000). Slater's juicy roast chicken is our standby, his caramelized onion-taleggio tart has amazed many a dinner guest and his general approach to cooking -- welcoming, hilarious, opinionated -- is right up our alley.

Takeaway tips:

1. Not a book for those who like their measurements precise; Slater's a fan of "a handful" and "a bunch."
   
2. There's a knockout pantry guide: "A bag of pasta, a lump of Parmesan and a bottle of olive oil ... the best friends you will ever have."
   
3. Look for the "what goes with what" primer, which includes "marriages made in heaven" like figs and Roquefort.
   
4. Pour yourself a drink before cooking (his words, not ours).
5. Look for the "and more" at the end of each recipe (i.e.: A Potato Supper "with sausage" or "with cheese").
   

Quality of pictures: These are snapshots for real, hungry cooks, with droolworthy pics of the greasy inside of a skillet, an Impressionistic stained apron and a closeup of freshly plucked sage you can nearly smell.

We tested: Roast Chicken, A Tart for a Party

'Tacos'
by Mark Miller
Ten Speed Press -- 2009
Buy it at Amazon

Most Americans equate tacos with a "run for the border," but a really good taco takes far longer than the average fast food.

"Tacos," written by the founder of the Coyote Café in Santa Fe, N.M., is a vision quest of sorts for lovers of all things tortilla. You will learn the basic philosophy of this traditional Mexican street food; it isn't until you get into the recipes, though, that you realize just how laborious it can be to make that yummy treat.

Along with approximately 44 taco fillings, Miller shows how to make homemade tortillas, offers a slew of salsa recipes and even gives a Mexican breakfast section sure to make you salivate.

Miller does a bang-up job pairing each of his taco fillings with a wine or beer choice, a tortilla recommendation and the proper salsa accompaniment. With the latter, it gets tricky: If you see a salsa paired with the filling, plan on an extra hour for the preparation.

'Salumi: Savory Recipes and Serving Ideas for Salame, Prosciutto and More'
John Piccetti and Francois Vecchio with Joyce Goldstein
Chronicle Books -- 2009
Buy it at Amazon

A couple years ago Slashfood sat before a monstrous plate of strange Italian salumi in Milan, blindly eating items that we only knew by the name "delicious." In hindsight, we wish we had had this book to learn the actual names.

"Salumi," co-written by the owner of San Francisco's cured-meat giant Columbus Foods, is one part history, one part encyclopedia and three parts cookbook with recipes for antipasti, snacks, first and main courses, and salads and vegetables.

Can't tell your cotechino from your sopressata? Consult the book. Not sure if you should eat that moldy casing? Consult the book. Need a way to dress up a lonely cucumber and carrot with salame? You guessed it ... the book.