Photo: Barrier Brewing
Once the Rockaways were a refuge for middle-class New Yorkers. However, a misguided attempt at 1960s urban renewal sent this wave-kissed peninsula into a tailspin that it's only now escaping from. During my week there I found numerous signs of recovery, from first-rate fish taco shacks to water-hugging bars. As for craft beer, there was nothing but Bud, Coors and Miller by the bucket.
Then I heard word of Barrier Brewing. This summer, former Sixpoint Craft Ales brewer Evan Klein opened his own operation in Long Island's Oceanside -- right near the Rockaways. Craving craft beer, I drove out there and, hidden in a low-slung industrial complex, found Klein toiling in his nanobrewery -- that is, a micro-microbrewery.
"I'm the only employee," Klein said, showing me the high-ceilinged room filled with gleaming brewing equipment. Though his operation is small in scale, Klein's ambition is not. Klein produces about six different beers served across New York and Long Island. Three are currently on tap.











