"American cheese" news and stories

Adelle. Photo: Murray's.

After spending months tasting mostly French cheeses, it's hard not to compare our diverse American cheeses to their European counterparts, especially Adelle from Ancient Heritage Dairy in Scio, Oregon. A taste of Adelle is like taking a bite of a phenomenally aged French goat's-milk cheese with an oozy texture and a flavor reminiscent of hazelnuts. What's remarkable about Adelle is that, despite this similarity, it's not a goat's-milk cheese.

In contrast to a French goat's-milk cheese like Pouligny Saint Pierre, Adelle's complex taste can be attributed to a combination of milks – that of East Friesian sheep and of Ayrshire Cows. While its rich taste and creamy consistency come from cow's milk, its meaty pungency and finish come from the addition of sheep's milk. Anne Saxelby, owner of Saxelby Cheesemongers, refers to mixed milk cheese as an "American innovation."

The reason for this American technique of mixing milk from different animals has to do with the seasonality of certain milks. For instance, sheep usually stop milking in October. "We could not afford to stop producing cheeses from October until the spring," says Kathy Obringer, co-owner of Ancient Heritage Dairy (with husband Paul). "So, one season, we used the cow's milk from a neighbor in exchange for cheese lessons, and we mixed it with our frozen sheep's milk."

Find out more about Adelle after the jump.

That's right! Buy it while you can still find it and afford it. A recent New York Times article explains that as of March 22, the government is raising the tariff on Roquefort from 100 to 300 percent. Yes, the tariff is already quite high. So, if you're already shocked by the markup on artisanal cheeses, you can stop blaming vendors and start getting frustrated with the federal import tariffs.

Cheesemongers from various stores, such as Murray's Cheese, stated that they will most likely stop selling Roquefort. The NY Times article states that we will still be able to find cheap "everyday" Roquefort from Fairway for $8.39 per pound. That's about how much it costs for high-end Roquefort in Paris. So, I think I'd rather abstain from the "everyday" kind. The "everyday" type is okay for sprinkling on salads, but the normal to fine ones, such as Roquefort Société and Roquefort Vieux Berger, have complex one-of-a-kind flavors and textures.

Roquefort isn't the only cheese with a tariff. Have you ever wondered why imported cheddars are so expensive? To protect American cheddars from foreign competition, there is a heavy tariff placed on British imported cheddars. This seems like another great reason to start buying local artisanal cheeses or to move to France.

This is an exciting time in the U.S. for cheese production due to the growing number of dairies creating artisanal cheeses. While Europeans have mastered the skill for many of their world renowned cheeses, like Brie and Gruyère, Americans are still learning. There is a tremendous amount of innovation occurring in American dairies. In her blog, Cheese monger Anne Saxelby points out that mixed milk cheeses are much more American than European since they are discouraged by AOC and DOC regulations.

Saxelby describes the development of mixed milk cheeses in the U.S. as an art. The craft lies in adding milk from the animals during a specific moment in the lactation cycle. The flavor of the milk is richer towards the end of the cycle. Accordingly, cheesemakers will use late season goat and sheeps' milk with some cows' milk. The proportions of each milk create the final taste of the cheese. And, the key is to balance out the fat content and decrease unpleasant flavors.

The following cheeses are mixed milk cheeses Saxelby recommends, and of course you can find them at her stall in the Essex Street Market in NY:
Battenkill Tomme - This raw sheep and cows' milk cheese comes from Three Corner Field Farm, NY.
Humble Pie - This pasteurized cow and sheeps' milk cheese comes from Woodcock Farm, VT.
Seal Cove Tomme - This pasteurized goat and cows' cheese milk comes from Seal Cove Farm, ME.
Capriola - This pasteurized goat and cows' milk cheese comes from Lazy Lady Farm, VT.
Timberdoodle - This raw sheep and cows' cheese milk comes from Woodcock Farm, VT.

I just cannot help myself from yelling "Hooray for Ouray!" every time I eat this intriguing cheese from upstate NY. Or, as cheesemonger Anne Saxelby says, "One bite and this cheese will leave you exclaiming OO-ray!" Ouray's luscious buttery texture and floral aroma combine elements of some of my favorite European cheeses. It has the minerality and milkiness of an English Cheshire. And, at the same time, it has the sweet bright taste and granular texture of an Italian Parmiggiano Reggiano.

While this cheese tastes delicious plain, its interesting texture and taste make it fun to pair with different drinks and condiments. The earthy nuttiness of Ouray pairs well with a glass of English ale. I suggest trying it with a light honey, such as acacia flower honey.

Visit Sprout Creek Farm!
Ouray is produced from the milk of cows that have been grazing on natural pasture. There are 4 breeds of cows living at Sprout Creek Farm in Poughkeepsie: Jersey, Guernsey, Shorthorn and Brown Swiss. To learn a little bit about the American agricultural heritage, I highly recommend visiting the farm. They even offer an educational program for children. Suggestions on where to purchase this cheese can be found after the jump.

Last year, someone to whom I was selling cheeses urged me to taste Hooligan. I was sorry that I had not tried it sooner. I was automatically struck by its supple creamy texture speckled with holes. The stinky meaty aroma intrigued me. The smell is more pungent than the taste on one's palate. It rates high up on my list of favorite American raw cow's milk cheeses.

The sharp flavor of Hooligan pairs well with dried cranberries and toasted whole wheat bread. I prefer not to melt Hooligan. Although, you can melt it and use it in place of Raclette. Hooligan tastes superb with a selection of different dark nutty beers.

Visit Cato Corner Farm!
Hooligan's name comes from the fact that it tends be unruly during the cheese making process. If the wheels are not attended to and constantly washed with a salt water brine twice weekly, the cheese will not turn out. The cheese is produced in Colchester, Connecticut at Cato Corner Farm by Elizabeth MacAlister and her son Mark Gillman. When you visit the farm, you'll be able to taste the 11 other farmhouse cheeses that they handmake from the milk of their 40 free-range Jersey cows. Suggestions on where to purchase this cheese can be found after the jump.