After spending months tasting mostly French cheeses, it's hard not to compare our diverse American cheeses to their European counterparts, especially Adelle from Ancient Heritage Dairy in Scio, Oregon. A taste of Adelle is like taking a bite of a phenomenally aged French goat's-milk cheese with an oozy texture and a flavor reminiscent of hazelnuts. What's remarkable about Adelle is that, despite this similarity, it's not a goat's-milk cheese.
In contrast to a French goat's-milk cheese like Pouligny Saint Pierre, Adelle's complex taste can be attributed to a combination of milks – that of East Friesian sheep and of Ayrshire Cows. While its rich taste and creamy consistency come from cow's milk, its meaty pungency and finish come from the addition of sheep's milk. Anne Saxelby, owner of Saxelby Cheesemongers, refers to mixed milk cheese as an "American innovation."
The reason for this American technique of mixing milk from different animals has to do with the seasonality of certain milks. For instance, sheep usually stop milking in October. "We could not afford to stop producing cheeses from October until the spring," says Kathy Obringer, co-owner of Ancient Heritage Dairy (with husband Paul). "So, one season, we used the cow's milk from a neighbor in exchange for cheese lessons, and we mixed it with our frozen sheep's milk."
That's right! Buy it while you can still find it and afford it. A recent New York Times article explains that as of March 22, the government is raising the tariff on Roquefort from 100 to 300 percent. Yes, the tariff is already quite high. So, if you're already shocked by the markup on artisanal cheeses, you can stop blaming vendors and start getting frustrated with the federal import tariffs.
Cheesemongers from various stores, such as Murray's Cheese, stated that they will most likely stop selling Roquefort. The NY Times article states that we will still be able to find cheap "everyday" Roquefort from Fairway for $8.39 per pound. That's about how much it costs for high-end Roquefort in Paris. So, I think I'd rather abstain from the "everyday" kind. The "everyday" type is okay for sprinkling on salads, but the normal to fine ones, such as Roquefort Société and Roquefort Vieux Berger, have complex one-of-a-kind flavors and textures.
Roquefort isn't the only cheese with a tariff. Have you ever wondered why imported cheddars are so expensive? To protect American cheddars from foreign competition, there is a heavy tariff placed on British imported cheddars. This seems like another great reason to start buying local artisanal cheeses or to move to France.
This is an exciting time in the U.S. for cheese production due to the growing number of dairies creating artisanal cheeses. While Europeans have mastered the skill for many of their world renowned cheeses, like Brie and Gruyère, Americans are still learning. There is a tremendous amount of innovation occurring in American dairies. In her blog, Cheese monger Anne Saxelby points out that mixed milk cheeses are much more American than European since they are discouraged by AOC and DOC regulations.
Saxelby describes the development of mixed milk cheeses in the U.S. as an art. The craft lies in adding milk from the animals during a specific moment in the lactation cycle. The flavor of the milk is richer towards the end of the cycle. Accordingly, cheesemakers will use late season goat and sheeps' milk with some cows' milk. The proportions of each milk create the final taste of the cheese. And, the key is to balance out the fat content and decrease unpleasant flavors.
The following cheeses are mixed milk cheeses Saxelby recommends, and of course you can find them at her stall in the Essex Street Market in NY: Battenkill Tomme - This raw sheep and cows' milk cheese comes from Three Corner Field Farm, NY. Humble Pie - This pasteurized cow and sheeps' milk cheese comes from Woodcock Farm, VT. Seal Cove Tomme - This pasteurized goat and cows' cheese milk comes from Seal Cove Farm, ME. Capriola - This pasteurized goat and cows' milk cheese comes from Lazy Lady Farm, VT. Timberdoodle - This raw sheep and cows' cheese milk comes from Woodcock Farm, VT.
I just cannot help myself from yelling "Hooray for Ouray!" every time I eat this intriguing cheese from upstate NY. Or, as cheesemonger Anne Saxelby says, "One bite and this cheese will leave you exclaiming OO-ray!" Ouray's luscious buttery texture and floral aroma combine elements of some of my favorite European cheeses. It has the minerality and milkiness of an English Cheshire. And, at the same time, it has the sweet bright taste and granular texture of an Italian Parmiggiano Reggiano.
While this cheese tastes delicious plain, its interesting texture and taste make it fun to pair with different drinks and condiments. The earthy nuttiness of Ouray pairs well with a glass of English ale. I suggest trying it with a light honey, such as acacia flower honey.
Visit Sprout Creek Farm! Ouray is produced from the milk of cows that have been grazing on natural pasture. There are 4 breeds of cows living at Sprout Creek Farm in Poughkeepsie: Jersey, Guernsey, Shorthorn and Brown Swiss. To learn a little bit about the American agricultural heritage, I highly recommend visiting the farm. They even offer an educational program for children. Suggestions on where to purchase this cheese can be found after the jump.
Last year, someone to whom I was selling cheeses urged me to taste Hooligan. I was sorry that I had not tried it sooner. I was automatically struck by its supple creamy texture speckled with holes. The stinky meaty aroma intrigued me. The smell is more pungent than the taste on one's palate. It rates high up on my list of favorite American raw cow's milk cheeses.
The sharp flavor of Hooligan pairs well with dried cranberries and toasted whole wheat bread. I prefer not to melt Hooligan. Although, you can melt it and use it in place of Raclette. Hooligan tastes superb with a selection of different dark nutty beers.
Visit Cato Corner Farm! Hooligan's name comes from the fact that it tends be unruly during the cheese making process. If the wheels are not attended to and constantly washed with a salt water brine twice weekly, the cheese will not turn out. The cheese is produced in Colchester, Connecticut at Cato Corner Farm by Elizabeth MacAlister and her son Mark Gillman. When you visit the farm, you'll be able to taste the 11 other farmhouse cheeses that they handmake from the milk of their 40 free-range Jersey cows. Suggestions on where to purchase this cheese can be found after the jump.
Last week, after writing a post about Tarentais, I thought about another cheese with a similar name: Tarentaise (the "s" is pronounced). These two cheeses can not be any more different. Tarentaise is a cow's milk cheese made at Thistle Hill Farm in Pomfret, Vermont. John and Janine Putnam were inspired by the mountain-style cheeses, such as Beaufort, that are produced in the Tarentaise valley in France.
Tarentaise is an incredibly rich buttery cheese with hints of grass, apricots, and walnuts. While this alpine-style cheese pays tribute to its European ancestors, it stands apart with its unique smooth taste and complex finish. This exceptional American cheese is perfect eaten on its own. Or, you can pair it with a chestnut spread to bring out its nuttiness. Another condiment to pair with Tarentaise is apricot jam which will magnify the fruitiness of the cheese.
Visit Thistle Hill Farm! Tarentaise is hand crafted by the Putnams on their farm. Even the process of moving the curds is done by hand, using a large cheese cloth, rather than commerical pumps that often harm the curds. Before entering the aging room, Tarentaise goes through a series of molds and turnings. Finally, it enters the aging facility where it matures for 4 to 6 months. The painstaking attention to detail can be tasted in the exquisite end result. To bear witness to this process, visit Thistle Hill Farm in North Pomfret, Vermont. Call them first at (802) 457-9349.
A couple of years ago, one of my friends suggested that I try Atlantic Mist, a creamy cow's milk cheese with a bloomy rind from Mecox Bay Dairy in Bridgehampton, NY. I finally tried it and was amazed at how similar it tastes to the raw milk Camemberts that I've eaten in France.
Most Camemberts that are imported into the U.S. are pasteurized and lack the sharp barnyard flavor and sweet fudge-like paste of a traditional raw milk Camembert. It's incredible that Atlantic Mist, a local cheese from the Hamptons, comes closer to the original than its pasteurized French counterparts. Atlantic Mist has an irresistible meaty aroma and a stunning gooey sweet taste.
Visit Mecox Bay Dairy! If you're making a trip to the Hamptons, be sure to visit the dairy farm. Art and Stacy Ludlow and their sons Peter and John started to handcraft cheeses in 2003 from the milk of their small herd of Jersey cows. Atlantic Mist is aged for a minimum of 61 days and it's made in small batches. You can contact Mecox Bay Dairy at 631-537-0335 or you can email Art at art@mecoxbaydairy.com. Recommendations on where to purchase this cheese can be found after the jump.
Until recently, I did not realize how ignorant I was about the vast array of delicious creamy cheeses from Maine. I was aware of the many different cheese producers in Vermont, like Jasper Hill Farm and the Cobb Hill cooperative. So, a few nights ago, I was pleasantly surprised when I discovered a soft handmade goat's milk cheese from Seal Cove Farm, a small goat dairy in Lamoine, Maine.
The flavors are exquisitely pristine with absolutely no sourness. The light fluffy texture slowly crumbles and melts on the palate. It's the perfect final course to be served at the end of a long meal. Alternatively, you can incorporate the cheese in various dishes to be served prior to your dessert, such as salads.
Visit Seal Cove Farm! This is the first American cheese that I've written about for Cheese Course. And, it's the beginning of a long list of unique local cheeses we can purchase on our own soil. I highly suggest visiting these dairies to learn about how these labor-intensive artisanal products are crafted. Seal Cove Farm is located north of Acadia National Park in Lamoine, Maine. Before visiting give them a call at 207-667-7127. Recommendations on where to purchase this cheese can be found after the jump.
I find that those slices of individually wrapped American cheese are always disappointing. I can't remember the last time I bought them, but occasionally, when I'm at a cookout or barbecue, I forget and get them on my burger. One bite in I regret the choice, as while they have amazing melting properties, there's really nothing redeeming about them. You get a mouthful of tasteless cheesy food product that coats your tongue like liquid plastic and ruins a perfectly good piece of grilled meat.
Because of my disdain for these slices of faux cheese, I was particularly delighted to discover a far more interesting and creative use for them. Cheese racing. This is a practice in which people (mostly like while they are under the influence of alcohol) toss the still-wrapped slices onto a grill, in order to see who's slice will puff up the fastest. Apparently the plastic doesn't melt or burst and the cheese gives off inflating gas. Who knew!
I've been searching the interwebs, but I can't find anything that explains what this day means. I've found several sites that mention that it is indeed National Cheese Sacrifice Day, but none that go into detail as to what it is. When Wikipedia doesn't have something, you know it's odd. I guess we are left to speculate.
Does it mean that we buy some cheese and sacrfice it somehow, or does it mean we aren't allowed to eat cheese today, as a sacrifice?
Wikis, if you're not familiar with them, are online pages that anyone can edit. This leads to
comprehensive definitions on just about any subject from applications like the Wikipedia. For a recipe, this means that all the collective knowledge
of cooks can be added in to one central location. Does it make the perfect recipe? The directions for making a grilled cheese sandwich at WikiHow look pretty clear
and even though the instructions are simple, keep in mind that every great chef (and hungry cook) must start
somewhere. If the stove top method is too conventional, you can also try using a George Foreman grill or an iron.
Speaking of grilled cheese, here are a
few facts to tide you over while you wait for your sandwich to be done:
Americans make 2.2 billion grilled cheese sandwiches at home each year.
The most popular two cheeses for grilled cheese are cheddar and American, though Gouda, Swiss and Gruyere are
also quite popular, especially in Europe.
30% of Americans name the grilled cheese as their favorite homemade sandwich
Grilled cheese often has add-ins and the most common is tomato, followed by bacon/ham, potato chips and
pickles, while other variations include the French croque-monsieur and croque-madame.