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DIY Brown Sugar - Tip of the Day

No brown sugar in the house, or the stuff you have is rock solid. What to do if you don't have time to deal?

Continue reading DIY Brown Sugar - Tip of the Day

Cinco de Mayo Is for Suckers - Walnut Maple Popsicles

pops
"It's Cinco de Mayo, dude! Where's my marg?"

Margaritas are lovely, yes, but sometimes the liver needs a break. And Mexico, of course, is no one-trick culinary pony. In fact, while ambling through the famously taco- and torta-laden neighborhood of Sunset Park, Brooklyn, last weekend, a compadre proselytized wildly about a maple-walnut popsicle right before running into traffic to lead us to the deli where it lived.

Traditionally no friend to the walnut unless it is candied, we were inclined to pass. Then we noticed that in this popsicle, walnuts were a minor player relegated to the stick end of the treat. We politely accepted a small bite. And then another.

And then we turned on our heel and ran back to the deli to rummage frantically through the cooler gleaming on the sidewalk: mango-lime, pistachio, egg nog. Egg nog?! Walnut! Where was it? Pops flew everywhere as, like a dog frantically chasing a mole burrowing underground, we went shoulder-deep into the icy cooler. Thank the stars, a lone, innocuous "nuez" pop remained.

Continue reading Cinco de Mayo Is for Suckers - Walnut Maple Popsicles

'Babycakes' - Cookbook Spotlight


babycakes"Babycakes: Vegan, Gluten-Free, and (Mostly) Sugar-Free Recipes from New York's Most Talked-About Bakery"

By Erin McKenna
Photographs by Tara Donne
Clarkson Potter -- 2009
Buy It at Amazon

Note: While testing the vanilla frosting recipe, we accidentally used soy flour instead of the the soy milk powder the recipe called for. The two are easily confused but not interchangeable, as our results demonstrated.

When Erin McKenna opened BabyCakes NYC in 2005, her gluten-free, vegan baked goods became a huge success, giving hope to the gluten-intolerant and converting legions of dairy-worshipping skeptics. Her new cookbook is both a how-to guide and winning, chatty account of McKenna's journey from junk food junkie to gluten-free goddess (she changed her Twinkie-loving ways in 2004, when she was diagnosed with wheat and dairy allergies). Pretty much everything in the baked good pantheon is here -- cupcakes, blueberry corn muffins, scones, cake and cobbler -- ensuring that while the gluten and dairy may be missing, absolutely nothing else is.

Takeaway Tips: McKenna writes in a clear, humorous and reassuring voice that makes you feel like you're baking in the company of, if not an old friend, then an endlessly understanding and forgiving teacher. She provides ingenious advice on making simple, natural food coloring (who knew that a pinch of turmeric made gorgeous yellow icing?), and her incredibly helpful ingredients glossary at the beginning of the book (from agave nectar to xantham gum) removes a lot of the considerable intimidation factor inherent in gluten-free, vegan baking.

See what we tested and whether the book's worth buying after the jump.

Continue reading 'Babycakes' - Cookbook Spotlight

A Pork-Bun Journey Through Chinatown

Steamed BBQ Pork Bun

Eating pork buns (cha siu baau) is an excellent way to get a taste of New York's Chinatown. These warm buns -- either steamed or baked -- are full of savory barbecue meats, sometimes with scallions.

Last weekend, a friend and I decided we would eat our way through Chinatown by trying pork buns at various bakeries. And, what started out as a "pork bun journey" turned into an exploration of both savory and sweet buns, ranging from pork to red bean.

Fay Da Bakery, at 83 Mott St., has a variety of buns that you can select yourself with tongs when you enter the shop. While being underwhelmed by their pork buns, we were blown away with their sweet topping red-bean bun. The outside of the red-bean bun is coated in a flaky layer of sugar that balances marvelously with the doughy bun and the creamy red-bean paste.

Head directly to the Golden Fung Wong Bakery, at 41 Mott St., to try some of the best pork buns in Manhattan's Chinatown. Chunks of pork are flavored with a delicious mix of soy and oyster sauce. This bakery also sells an assortment of rice cakes and melon cakes that are worth trying.

Sugar Shock

chocolate avocado milkshake

I like to have a sweet treat from time to time, especially if it is a homemade cookie or a lavish dessert made from scratch in one of my favorite New York City restaurants. But even if you don't splurge every day on dessert, you might be getting a lot more sugar than you should.

But how much is too much? And is sugar really bad for you as they say?

Historically, sugar consumption is on the rise -- here are some sugar shock stats (PDF). In 1970, each American was eating on average 123 pounds of sugar a year and today that number is up to 152 pounds -- which means three pounds in just one week, a little under one cup a day. Nutritionists say to limit sugar to around 13 teaspoons a day so we are getting almost four times the recommended daily amount from a variety of sources.

A lot of people are wondering if there is a healthy form of sugar: Since most of the sugars trigger the same rise in blood sugar, there is no real difference between them except for how quickly that sugar spike hits the system. This is where eating more complex carbohydrates and beneficial fruits is a great way to slow that blood glucose change and deal with the daily crave for sweets.

As in my last post, I still think it's OK to enjoy other forms of sugar in moderation; we all like our treats from time to time, especially on holidays and special occasions. But if you're looking for low-sugar treats, try my recipes for avocado chocolate milkshake, brown sugar ice cream or rugelach.

After the jump -- chewing the fat on "diet" food.

Continue reading Sugar Shock

Whoopie Pies from One Girl Cookies

Whoopie Pies

I have always been a huge fan of deliciously rich and creamy whoopie pies. So, when I read the recent New York Times article about its current popularity among New Yorkers, I was not too surprised.

The article traces the history of this delectable to pockets of New England, Pennsylvania and Ohio. And, it explains that due to their gaining popularity, supermarkets like Whole Foods, Trader Joe's and (specialty deli) Zingerman's sell them. But, my favorite spot for whoopie pies is at One Girl Cookies in Cobble Hill, Brooklyn.

As food historian Sandra Oliver states, the cake part that sandwiches the cream is not especially sweet and is often dry, because the frosting, the heart of the whoopie, is full of sugar and a gooey consistency. This characterizes One Girl Cookies' luscious whoopie pies. There is an amazing balances between the frosting in the center and the light fluffy dry cookie/cake.

Perhaps, one of the reasons why they're so special is that cream cheese frosting is sandwiched between pumpkin cake (see the photo above).

You can purchase a dozen whoopie pies from One Girl Cookies online for $27. The Times mentions another pastry shop in Brooklyn with whoopie fever called Trois Pommes Patisserie.

Contemplating the Vernal Equinox With Orange Chiffon Cake

orange chiffon cake

A Foodie's Notes on the Vernal Equinox:

We very rarely had snow where I grew up, but as I stood at my grandmother's apron strings, I was taught to respect the turning of the seasons.

Winter was cold enough for the warming comfort food most of us still associate with it -- steaming bowls of soup, pot roast in rich gravy, hot coffee and cake to go with it.

Summer meant barbecue, soft drinks ("pop" to grandma, and we never got it except at cookouts) and pies bubbling with the best of the summer fruit while less perfect specimens were packed into canning jars by an assembly line of women working in the basement of the church.

Autumn was pumpkin, apples and turkey as we got ready for Halloween and Thanksgiving. And spring ... well, spring was getting ready for Easter.

On the weekend of the Equinox, my grandmother changed all of the household linens -- sheets to tea towels -- from winter's cream and evergreen to her favorite shades of sky blue and butter yellow.

That Monday, she set up the glass pots with thermometers that clipped onto the sides, steel baking sheets that unrolled like April thunder and vials of curiously intense flavor extracts that heralded Easter candy-making. Always planning, (Depression-era housekeepers needed no time management coaching), she made candy in the mornings before turning her attention to lunch and the afternoon errands.

Keep reading about why a chiffon cake is an important statement of spring awakening after the jump.

Continue reading Contemplating the Vernal Equinox With Orange Chiffon Cake

Oscar Party Idea - Cupcake Decorating

super bowl cupcakes
Throwing an Oscar party? Need a party activity to keep guests entertained during all the boring awards? How about a movie-themed cupcake decorating contest? For this idea, I'm taking a page from my friends Jamie and Sarah's playbook: For their Super Bowl party, they mixed up buttercream icing tinted with Steelers and Cardinals colors, and during halftime we festooned delicious chocolate cupcakes with helmets, logos, and footballs. Some particularly artistic examples are pictured.

This idea would translate easily to an Oscar party. Options abound: you could ice one with an Oscar statuette, or you could decorate one with a best- or worst-dressed star. Give Mickey Rourke a facelift! Better yet, take inspiration from the movies nominated. Make sure to mix up black icing for the nuns' habits in Doubt (not to mention Richard Nixon's suit). Gooey icing should allow for an evocative interpretation of Two Face in The Dark Knight. And even though the Academy didn't give it the props many think it deserved, Wall-E ought to inspire some stellar cupcake art. One tip I learned from Jamie and Sarah: provide toothpicks for the fine detail work, like getting the Joker's makeup to bleed into his facial creases just so. And then eat up!

Blood Clots and Brains for Valentine's Day!

blood clot and brain cupcakeIf I had a significant other right now, you'd better believe that I'd be making him the absolutely wonderful Blood Clot and Brain Cupcakes from Not Quite Nigella. Any takers? Bueller?

You know what? She may be "not quite" Nigella, but there's little as cool as this dessert twist. It's just a simple cupcake recipe with strawberry jam inside for the nice, clotty blood. Head over there and check it out for yourself.

Forget the roses, conversation hearts, and other overplayed and overpriced gifts. Make some sweet brains, grab The Man with Two Brains, and have one heck of an original and tasty Valentine's Day!

Krispy Kreme Doughnut Challenge

krispie kreme donutsSo how are your New Year's Resolutions going? Still making it to the gym, cutting down on the carbs, repurposing your Starbucks addiciton to a fix of regular joe from the deli? Good luck with all that. You can never let it be said that one of the world's leading suppliers of premium carbohydrates isn't in your corner.

Saturday was the fifth running of what has become a tradition in Raleigh, North Carolina: the Krispy Kreme Doughnut Challenge, in which the power of a mountain of doughnuts is harvested as motivation and fuel for a four mile race whose midpoint is not a shot of some namby-pamby sports drink but the scarfing of a dozen glazed. Finally, a sport everyone can support, and athletes everyone can identify with: carbo track and field.

Here's how the doughnut triathalon works: registrants gather at the belltower on the North Carolina State campus as early as 6:30 a.m., pre-doughnut-run doughnuts optional but not exactly wise. These finely-tuned thoroughbreds warm up in anticipation of the 9:30 a.m. start time for a run to the Krispy Kreme doughnut shop on Peace Street, where will be awaiting one dozen warm glazed doughnuts. These have to be scarfed (coffee optional but allowed), and then the journey repeated to the belltower (barfing optional but presumably allowed). The runner does not have to eat all of their doughnuts but has to weather the resulting humiliation if they don't. They have to complete the entire triathalon in one hour or less.

Continue reading Krispy Kreme Doughnut Challenge

Hemingway Daiquiri with a Tiny Twist



When life hands me lemons, I make freshly-squeezed lemonade. When life hands me a grapefruit, I make a Hemingway Daiquiri. When life hands me a grapefruit, limes, Maraschino liqueur, a couple of bottles of Cuban rum (they were a gift -- I swear!) and a few sugar canes all at the same time -- well, I kinda have to take that as a mixological edict straight from Papa.

Whether or not one's a fan of Ernest Hemingway's barrel-chested prose, it's still entirely possible to appreciate his contributions to the cocktail lexicon. As an ex-pat in Havana, Hemingway spent much of his time bellied up to the El Floridita Bar, reportedly gulping down six of these babies if just out to be social, and a dozen doubles (bump up the rum portion, and you've got yourself a Papa Doble) if drunkenness were the mission's objective.

More, plus two recipes after the jump.

Continue reading Hemingway Daiquiri with a Tiny Twist

Milwaukee Sausage Cake


Scanned from Be Milwaukee's Guest, Recipes Collected and Tested by the Junior League of Milwaukee - 1959

I could scarcely be crankier at myself for muffing the opportunity to present this comb-bound recipe gem on a particularly Wisconsin-centric holiday, such as the recently passed St. Nick's Day, but hey -- any day is a great day for pork cake!

I'm a big fan of the melding of meat and sweet (mmm...bacon candy...), and surely have been known to savor a sumptuously larded crust, but I can't swear that I've ever seen a baked good quite so aggressively piggy as this. Pinwheel rolls studded with flecks of seasoned ground beef, yes, but those were generally presented as a savory, hand-wielded Wellington sort of course rather than spiced, as this seems to be, in the manner of a dessert or breakfast sweet. I'm pleading woeful ignorance about the pastries of the Badger State here, so might someone be so kind as to enlighten me -- is this a traditional Wisconsin breakfast or dessert treat, or a relic of the cookbook's era? If the former, I'm booking a trip on Midwest Airlines posthaste. If the latter -- who's up for a bake-along this weekend?

How does Sausage Cake sound to you?

The Christmas Cookie Book - Cookbook of the Day

cover of The Christmas Cookie BookAs she did in the companion volume on candy, Lou Seibert Pappas tackles Christmas sweets with The Christmas Cookie Book. If the rattling of cookie sheets and the shaking of sanding sugar stir the soul (not to mention the batter) of your inner sugar-plum fairy, then you will appreciate this book. As with its companion, the recipe is to lead off with techniques and some delightful Christmas cookie history, along with discussing the fine arts of decorating cookies, packing them for shipping and (my favorite) arranging them on a platter.

Pappas arranges the recipes into four sections: traditional cookies, family favorites, gift cookies and party cookies. Though each section contains standbys, the highlight is Pappas' gift for presenting ideas and recipes not everyone will have heard of. Most of us know that gingerbread (page 28) is traditional at the holidays, but did you know about the traditions of springerle (page 22), peppernuts (page 31), or Viennese bells (page 36)? Sugar cookies (page 40) and spritz (page 42, if you can lay your hands on your cookie press) and are de rigeur for holiday baking, but why not incorporate lemon wafers (page 45) or pepparkakor (page 44)? And whether you celebrate Hanukkah, Christmas, Kwanzaa, the Solstice or just calories, don't forget to put together a tray of coconut-orange macaroons (page 89).

Continue reading The Christmas Cookie Book - Cookbook of the Day

Merry and Bright - Guide to Online Holiday Guides

holiday spreadOkay, now it's serious: people who celebrate Christmas are officially down to T-Minus Two Weeks. If you haven't pre-ordered your turkey (or ham or crown roast or or dobosh torte or cheese ball or smoked salmon or fruitcake or pound bag of lentils or split of champagne) don't panic, there's still plenty of help online. While you're surfing online holiday guides, be sure to stop at the following for menus, recipes, inspiration, or just a fun, informative few minutes of holiday cheer.

December rules at AOL Food, where there are areas devoted to everything from foodie gift suggestions to holiday side dishes. You will enjoy the time you spend with the online community discussing family traditions. And don't forget to chime in on which holiday food is your least beloved -- eggnog? Fruitcake? Gelatinous salads? (I'll go first: anything, and everything, mint).

The centerpiece of the venerable Gourmet's online holiday guide is forty years of Christmas cookies. Which ones will you try -- the retro warmth of coconut bars or jelly centers, the crosscultural snow of Galettes de Noel (France) or Kourambiedes (Greece), the pre-New-Year's-diet caloric heights of mocha toffee bars, or the boozy cheer of bourbon balls or chocolate cookies with gin-soaked raisins?


Continue reading Merry and Bright - Guide to Online Holiday Guides

Slashfood Ate (8): Ways to add muscovado sugar to a recipe

Dark muscovado sugar
I have been on a wild sugar kick the past couple of months. It started with demerara sugar. I used this sugar instead of ordinary white sugar or brown sugar, and I was shocked at the difference. The flavor was extraordinarily sweet and syrupy in a way I had never been used to in past culinary endeavors. What makes different sugars unique is how they're processed. For instance, demerara sugar is unrefined sugar coming from pressed sugar cane that's steamed .

Now, I'm on to the next sugar: muscovado. Muscovado is also unrefined but, compared to demerara, it has a more pronounced molasses flavor. Unlike brown sugar which is refined white sugar with molasses added to it, muscovado's brown color and flavor come directly from sugarcane juice. Recently, I have been using muscovado as a replacement for brown sugar. Its exquisite long lingering flavor makes it perfect for other rich flavors when baking ginger bread cookies, chocolate cakes, fudges, and much more.

Below are 8 ways to add muscovado sugar to a recipe next time your baking:

  1. Martha Stewart's muscovado soy biscuits
  2. Muscovado and hazelnut tart with yoghurt sorbet
  3. Butterscotch Pots de Crème
  4. Gingerbread cookies - Substitute the brown sugar with muscovado
  5. Muscovado sugar cookies
  6. Christmas Pudding - I highly recommend making this decadent fruity pudding this holiday season.
  7. Caramelized Nectarines
  8. Pigs' ears - These delicious confections are in the shape of pigs' ears.

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Tip of the Day

We can change the way we make eggs -- scrambled, poached, fried -- but what about changing the eggs themselves? Mix up your scrambling routine with quail eggs.

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