
Pizza experiences in the last few months have been limited to delivery (late nights working at the office) and on-the-go slices on the way home from less-than-noble late nights. But entertaining an out-of-town foodie guest recently offered the opportunity to visit Antica Pizzeria for the first time, often named among the best pizzerias in Los Angeles, along with Casa Bianca, Abbot’s Pizza Company, Mulberry Street Pizzeria, and Caioti Pizza Cafe.
Antica was the first pizzeria in the U.S. to be awarded the certificate for authenticity from the Verace Pizza Napoletana Association, which idenitifes pizzerias that adhere to a set of strict standards for making Neapolitan style pizza – specific raw ingredients, dough techniques, and oven temperatures. Even upon walking into the restaurant on the 2nd floor of a mini mall in Marina Del Rey, we could feel the volcanic heat from the wood-fired oven and see the pizzaiolo pulling and stretching the dough by hand. No machines or rolling pins allowed for traditional Neapolitan pizzas.
Our pizzas are about the size of a standard hanging wall clock, with a thin, crisp crust charred underneath by the floor of the oven, and punctuated op top here and there with enormous blackened bubbles. Unlike other pizzas that are an unbroken field of oily yellow cheese that hides a flood of red, these show the slightly sweet tomato sauce through milky white abstractions of melted fior di latte mozarella. I’m not sure what that means, other than delicious!
Other items on the menu are good. The wild mushroom ragout was deeply flavorful atop slices of firm, grilled polenta. A seasonal pasta special, bucatini, was good, but not all that memorable. But why venture away from what they’re famous for? Next time, pizza all around!
Antica Pizzeria
13455 Maxella Avenue, 2nd floor
Marina del Rey, CA 90292
(310) 577-8182