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Slashfoodhttp://www.slashfood.comSlashfoodhttp://www.slashfood.com/media/feedlogo.gifSlashfoodhttp://www.slashfood.comen-usCopyright 2012 Weblogs, Inc. The contents of this feed are available for non-commercial use only.Blogsmith http://www.blogsmith.com/Colonial Historians Press for Crackling Revivalhttp://www.slashfood.com/2010/01/27/colonial-historians-press-for-crackling-revival/http://www.slashfood.com/2010/01/27/colonial-historians-press-for-crackling-revival/http://www.slashfood.com/2010/01/27/colonial-historians-press-for-crackling-revival/#commentsFiled under: Offal, Food History, Events

Flickr, The Pug Father.

Members of an eastern North Carolina historical organization are trying to stimulate interest in Colonial-era pig preparations they claim the current crop of pork devotees has unfairly overlooked.

"Cracklings have gotten a lot of bad press," sighs Sarah Weeks, a volunteer for the Perquimans County Restoration Association. But she insists, "People can add them to any savory recipe," she insists.

While a few high-end chefs have toyed with cracklings, Weeks would like to shift the crunchy, salty byproduct of rendering lard from the amuse plate to the kitchen pantry. That's why she's enlisted an ally to show up at the association's hog-killing festival this weekend with crackling-streaked biscuits.

Continue reading Colonial Historians Press for Crackling Revival

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]]>crackling revivalcracklingshognorth carolinaporkHanna RaskinWed, 27 Jan 2010 11:00:00 ESTHow to Cook a Cow Head in New York Cityhttp://www.slashfood.com/2009/07/27/how-to-cook-a-cow-head-in-new-york-city/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/07/27/how-to-cook-a-cow-head-in-new-york-city/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/07/27/how-to-cook-a-cow-head-in-new-york-city/#commentsFiled under: Guilty Pleasures, Head to Tail, Ingredients, How To, Offal

Cow head in banana leaves at Hill Country. Photo: Kat Kinsman

There comes a time in every girl's life -- when she's ripping open the long-braised skull of a short-lived calf in order to better wobble out its beer-marinated brain -- that she smiles contentedly and realizes she loves her life an awful lot. Then she goes for the eyes.

Well OK, not every girl's life -- but at least those of a troika of squeam-free dames including Hill Country's executive chef and cookbook author Elizabeth Karmel, Homesick Texan writer Lisa Fain and lucky, lucky me. And it all happened because of Twitter.

See a step-by-step barbacoa making slideshow and read a description after the jump. Warning -- it's not for vegetarians or the faint of stomach.

Continue reading How to Cook a Cow Head in New York City

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]]>barbacoabbqbeefcow headCowHeadelizabeth karmelElizabethKarmelguilty pleasureshill countryHillCountryhomesick texanHomesickTexanhow to cook a cow headHowToCookACowHeadkat kinsmanKatKinsmanlisa fainLisaFainmeatrobb walshRobbWalshsmokerKat KinsmanMon, 27 Jul 2009 11:00:00 ESTPassover Food: The Joys of Gefilte Fishhttp://www.slashfood.com/2009/04/08/passover-food-the-joys-of-gefilte-fish/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/04/08/passover-food-the-joys-of-gefilte-fish/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/04/08/passover-food-the-joys-of-gefilte-fish/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Ingredients, Holidays, Chefs & Restaurants, Restaurants, Offal

gefilte fish

Though some Jewish food mavens may beg to differ, we think few dishes are as associated with the children of Israel as gefilte fish. While not as easy-to-love as blintzes, as versatile as horseradish or as soothing as chicken soup, the ubiquitous balls of ground fish make a fine appetizer for almost any holiday meal.

Gefilte fish, which takes its name from gefüllte, the German word for "stuffed," was traditionally made using finely ground pike or carp mixed with eggs, onion, flour, seasonings and either matzoh meal or challah bread. It was then packed into the skin of a deboned fish, poached with onions and carrots, chilled and sliced. Today gefilte fish is typically formed into patties and served cold. It is often preserved in a jellied fish broth and commonly accompanied by horseradish and a slice of carrot.

While gefilte fish isn't one of the symbolic foods on the Passover Seder Plate, it is a traditional part of the meal in many households. Part of its popularity lies in the cultural significance underlying its preparation: Since one can buy it deboned, it doesn't require work at the table, which means that it can be eaten during the Sabbath when work is forbidden. Another benefit is that fish is parve, so kosher consumers can eat it on the same plate with either meat or dairy foods.

Another reason for the aqueous critter's lingering popularity lies in its economy. Originally developed in Europe's Ashkenazi Jewish community, gefilte fish balls incorporated cereals and fillers to stretch the fish itself. The fish was class-free -- accessible enough for the poorest member of a community, yet glitzy enough for the most wealthy.

Today gefilte fish continues to be a popular and enduring cultural motif. On one end of the spectrum, enterprising chefs like Wolfgang Puck are finding ways to make it more exciting; on the other, a strong market for the traditional ground fish and stuffing survives. Brett Werner, manager of Miami Beach's popular Roasters' n Toasters deli, estimates that his store has sold approximately 200 quarter-pound pieces of the fish for this year's Passover already!

How do you feel about gefilte fish?

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]]>americafeaturedfishgefilte fishGefilteFishjewish cookingJewishCookingpassoverroasters n toastersRoastersNToasterswolfgang puckWolfgangPuckBruce WatsonWed, 08 Apr 2009 14:00:00 ESTJellied Moose Snout? Duck Embryos? Oh, the Horror!http://www.slashfood.com/2009/03/12/jellied-moose-snout-duck-embryos-oh-the-horror/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/03/12/jellied-moose-snout-duck-embryos-oh-the-horror/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/03/12/jellied-moose-snout-duck-embryos-oh-the-horror/#commentsFiled under: Food Oddities, Health & Medical, Head to Tail, Offal

As I've mentioned once or twice in the past, I have a pretty wide-open definition of palatable food. I've had my fair share of headcheese, blood pudding, cow-face tacos and other unpopular meat products. More to the point, I often go out of my way to find bizarre things to eat. That having been said, Culinary Schools' list of disgusting delicacies gave me some serious pause. For that matter, the pictures were enough to seriously haunt my dreams.

The thing almost reads like a list of urban food legends. Maggoty cheese? Check. Grilled dog? Check. Soft-boiled duck fetus? Check. Some, like sheep's heads, jellied moose snout, and octopus, are on the list simply because they are conceptually a little difficult to deal with. Others, like blowfish sushi and boiled bat, are potentially life-threatening.

All in all, I don't know if this list is a compendium of "must trys" or a compendium of "must avoids"!

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]]>culinary schoolsCulinarySchoolsdisgusting foodDisgustingFoododditiesBruce WatsonThu, 12 Mar 2009 12:00:00 ESTRecession Cuisine - The Plummeting Prices of Former Luxurieshttp://www.slashfood.com/2009/01/06/recession-cuisine-the-plummeting-prices-of-former-luxuries/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/01/06/recession-cuisine-the-plummeting-prices-of-former-luxuries/http://www.slashfood.com/2009/01/06/recession-cuisine-the-plummeting-prices-of-former-luxuries/#commentsFiled under: Ingredient Spotlight, Head to Tail, Ingredients, Offal

One of the great things about delicacies is that, while they may be rare, they are only worth what someone is willing to pay for them. For example, sturgeon eggs may be a taste treat, but if nobody is willing to fork over the a small fortune, then they are, essentially, just bait. Recently, this simple fact has become quite important as lobster, which was once priced well out of the range of the average person has started to come within reach. The freakish crustaceans are now going for about $2.50 per pound wholesale, down from a high of about $10 per pound in spring 2007. In terms of retail price, this translates into a drop of at least $4 per pound. In some Boston-area seafood markets, the price hovered in the $7 range earlier this year; depending upon one's location, it has subsequently dipped well below that.

There are two big reasons for the great lobster drop. One is the fact that many high-end consumers, the kinds of people who could afford to eat lobster regularly, were hit particularly hard by 2008's financial meltdown. The second reason lies in the collapse of Iceland's economy: seafood producers in Canada that used Icelandic banks have not been able to get the credit they need to buy large amounts of lobster.

Personally, I'm going to be taking advantage of this sudden piece of good news. While I'm not a big fan of shelled lobster - to be honest, the huge crustaceans remind me of aquatic cockroaches and the whole lobster dining experience is disturbingly like an alien autopsy - lobster tails and lobster bisque are among my favorites. What's more, with lobster going for a fraction of its former price, this might be the perfect time for a Monty Python recipe that I've always wanted to try: Lobster Thermidor Aux Crevettes with Mornay Sauce, Truffle Pate, Brandy, Fried Egg and Spam. While I'm at it, I'm also keeping an eye on other delicacies; after all, who knows what will drop next?

Continue reading Recession Cuisine - The Plummeting Prices of Former Luxuries

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]]>americaBostonIcelandLobsterMonty PythonMontyPythonshellfishSpamBruce WatsonTue, 06 Jan 2009 09:00:00 ESTTime for Offalhttp://www.slashfood.com/2008/12/15/time-for-offal/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/12/15/time-for-offal/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/12/15/time-for-offal/#commentsFiled under: Budget Cuisine, Magazines, Trends, Head to Tail, Ingredients, Offal

tongue

Time Magazine reports, with a soupçon of punny glee, that sales of offal in Great Britain have surged as of late, likely in response to the international economic downturn. Quoth London's Liz Logan:

"Tough economic times have Britons eating their hearts out and swallowing their tongues. Not literally, of course. But offal - or "variety meats," as the food category is euphemistically called in the U.K. - is experiencing a surge in popularity, with sales up 67% over the past five years."

Thing is, even in advance of the pound sterling's plunge, the nose-to-tail herd, helmed by offal stalwarts like Fergus Henderson and River Cottage's Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, had been squealing 'bout the culinary benefits of tripe, kidneys, brains, tail, giblets and trotters. Come for the savings, stay for the savoring -- the message seems to have come home to roost.

I posted a while back about my love of grilled chicken hearts, and I'm no stranger to whisking up a batch of giblet gravy, or a neckbone ragout, but I'm hungry for your favorite takes on organ meats. Post 'em in the comments below.

[via: Time]

Thank you to Flickr user vvvanessa for uploading this drool-inducing image to the Slashfood pool.

Giblet gravy recipe after the jump.

Continue reading Time for Offal

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]]>brainbritish foodbritish islesBritishFoodchitterlingseuropeFergus HendersonFergusHendersonhead to tailHeadToTailheartkat kinsmanKatKinKatKinsmankidneylivermeatnose to tailNoseToTailoffalorgan meatsOrganMeatstime magazineTimeMagazinetonguetrotterKat KinsmanMon, 15 Dec 2008 10:00:00 ESTLike sushi but hate the guilt? Try going ocean friendly!http://www.slashfood.com/2008/10/28/like-sushi-but-hate-the-guilt-try-going-ocean-friendly/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/10/28/like-sushi-but-hate-the-guilt-try-going-ocean-friendly/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/10/28/like-sushi-but-hate-the-guilt-try-going-ocean-friendly/#commentsFiled under: Science, Light Food, Health & Medical, Head to Tail, Food News, Ingredients, Offal

When I was a kid, eating raw fish was considered bizarre, and admitting a love for the stuff was comparable to outing oneself as a tree-worshipper or part-time sword swallower. In its own, strange way, it was cool, but it also put one in the same category as the classmate who ate paste or the kid who sometimes set fire to things.

My parents, who had lived in Asia, were huge fans of sushi and sashimi, which meant that much of my childhood was spent traveling from one squalid Japanese restaurant to another in search of honest-to-goodness fresh fish. My sisters and I usually crunched tempura while my parents gobbled down morsels of hamachi, toro, sake, and saba, rating the various venues and moaning about how good the stuff was. As time went on, the claims that this was "grownup food" started holding less and less water; by the time I was ten, the whole family was in love with raw fish.

Continue reading Like sushi but hate the guilt? Try going ocean friendly!

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]]>americaasiablue ocean instituteBlueOceanInstitutefishlight foodmonterey bay aquariumMontereyBayAquariumocean friendly sushiOceanFriendlySushisashimisushiTalking HeadsTalkingHeadsBruce WatsonTue, 28 Oct 2008 12:30:00 ESTA celebration of baconhttp://www.slashfood.com/2008/09/09/a-celebration-of-bacon/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/09/09/a-celebration-of-bacon/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/09/09/a-celebration-of-bacon/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Ingredients, How To, Offal

Bacon candy is one of the most popular recipes at aol.com, which is as good a reason as any to salute bacon. While you're candying your bacon, order up some bacon salt with which to anoint summer's last grilled veggies, french fries, chops or steak.

For your breakfast fix, try Smithfield's maple-smoked bacon (locate your local grocer here) or Oscar's Adirondack slab bacon -- and, if you're ready to commit to a serious relationship, sign up for the Bacon of the Month club. If you're adventurous, you can learn about curing your own bacon here. Wherever it came from, to cook your bacon you will need a good cast iron frying pan, such as these beauties from Le Creuset and Lodge. Both work well with a bacon press.

A bacon keeper is an inexpensive and indispensable feature for the frosty landscape inside your refrigerator. Now you than you're set to preserve and prepare your bacon, start cooking with it. Cobb Salad isn't Cobb Salad without bacon; here's a great recipe for this American classic. Once you've mastered your Cobb, explore additional recipes at The Bacon Show -- but be warned: after you sample your homemade bacon-infused vodka, you will probably need one of these.

While bacon is nourishing your interior, insulate your exterior with a bacon scarf. Outfit your breakfront, office cubby, or any other environment you choose (bacon-themed bathroom, anyone?) with a selection of novelties from the bacon collection at Archie McPhee. Finally, if you're wondering wherefore this depth of scholarship concerning bacon, consider this: aside from being namesake for one of art's masters, bacon inspired the art of no less a master than Salvador Dali.

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]]>baconbacon of the month clubbacon saltBaconOfTheMonthClubBaconSaltbreakfastfeaturedmaple smoked baconMapleSmokedBaconporkslab baconSlabBaconEric DieselTue, 09 Sep 2008 09:00:00 ESTUnagi Noburi: A soda with the cool, refreshing taste of...eel?http://www.slashfood.com/2008/08/20/unagi-noburi-a-soda-with-the-cool-refreshing-taste-of-eel/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/08/20/unagi-noburi-a-soda-with-the-cool-refreshing-taste-of-eel/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/08/20/unagi-noburi-a-soda-with-the-cool-refreshing-taste-of-eel/#commentsFiled under: Business, Food Oddities, Head to Tail, Drink Recipes, Offal

A few years back, my pal Tom introduced me to the delicious, sweet taste of "Kaba-yaki," broiled eel served with a sweet sauce. As I'm always game to try new things, I scarfed down the piece that he offered me. As soon as I tasted it, I forgot about the fact that the meat came from a slithering, snakelike creature and began to focus on the flavor. It was tender, moist, and perfectly delicious. I was hooked.

Although time, geography, and economics have kept me from regularly partaking of the delicious Kaba-yaki, I can certainly understand why it is Japan's official summer food. I can even understand, to a certain extent, why Japan Tobacco, Inc. recently came out with "Unagi Noburi," or "Surging Eel," an eel-based carbonated beverage. Made from (among other things) the head and bones of eels, the soda contains several of the vitamins that are contained in the fish. The company is marketing it as a sort of energy drink, designed to extend its drinkers' stamina.

According to reports, the drink tastes more or less like Kaba-yaki. While the idea of a broiled, barbecue-y eel drink initially nauseates me a little, I have to admit that I wasn't all that hot on eel itself when I first heard about it. Given how the Kaba-yaki turned out, I may have to give the soda a try!

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]]>asiaEel drinkEelDrinkjuiceKaba-yakinon alcoholicodditiessummerSurging EelSurgingEelUnagiUnagi NoburiUnagiNoburiBruce WatsonWed, 20 Aug 2008 18:00:00 ESTFun with guinea pigs: Dressed for dinner!http://www.slashfood.com/2008/08/05/fun-with-guinea-pigs-dressed-for-dinner/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/08/05/fun-with-guinea-pigs-dressed-for-dinner/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/08/05/fun-with-guinea-pigs-dressed-for-dinner/#commentsFiled under: Food Oddities, Did you know?, Head to Tail, Food Politics, Holidays, Offal

Warning: this post may offend people who like cute little furry guinea pigs.

A few days ago, I wrote a post about chicha morada, the amazing Peruvian blue corn drink. Thinking on it further, I am becoming increasingly convinced that Peru produces some of the best dishes in the world; with that in mind, I plan on writing a fair bit more about the wonders of lomo saltado, papas a la huancaina, and other treats. However, in the interests of total honesty, I also have to acknowledge the dark side of Peruvian cuisine, the surreal side, the side that dresses up guinea pigs in colorful costumes then roasts them with cheese.

The twisted tale of the Peruvian Guinea Pig Festival begins in a cute, whimsical way. In the small city of Huacho, located north of Lima, somebody came up with the bright idea of holding a regional carnival to honor the cuy, or guinea pig. Now in its third year, the event features contests for fattest, quickest, and best dressed cuy. People from the surrounding communities primp and preen their top animals, preparing them for the race and dressing them in the height of rodent fashion. It is not uncommon to see the animals dressed in bright silks and taffetas, sporting little hats and crowns, and generally looking like a cross between a fur mitten and the infant of Prague.

While the winners of the fastest and best dressed contests are spared from the final competition, the remainder of the cuy become fodder for the greatest test of all, a battle royale that pits woman against woman, village against village, and cuy against cuy: the fight for tastiest guinea pig. Amidst an orgy of stuffing, roasting, skewering and smoking, the women of Peru demonstrate their skill with one of the country's traditional delicacies.

Continue reading Fun with guinea pigs: Dressed for dinner!

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]]>chicha moradaChichaMoradacuydid you knowfeaturedguinea pig festivalguinea pigsGuineaPigFestivalGuineaPigsHuachoodditiesPerusouth americaBruce WatsonTue, 05 Aug 2008 17:05:00 ESTExtreme Grilling: Go whole hoghttp://www.slashfood.com/2008/07/18/extreme-grilling-go-whole-hog/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/07/18/extreme-grilling-go-whole-hog/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/07/18/extreme-grilling-go-whole-hog/#commentsFiled under: Did you know?, Head to Tail, Ingredients, Offal, Methods

roast pig

As I wrote several weeks ago, a pig pickin' is a North Carolina tradition involving a pig, a converted petroleum drum cooker, a bunch of charcoal and a whole lot of time. But a pig pickin' is not the only way to cook a whole hog - cultures across the world have been spit roasting, grilling and burying pigs in hot ash for thousands of years. In many places, pork is the cheapest meal available, making pig roasts an affordable way to have big festive meals for the whole community. Here are a few whole hog traditions from around the world:

Hawaii: Possibly the most famous whole pig preparation of them all, the kalua pig is a staple of the Hawaiian luau. The pig is "dressed" (gutted, the outer layer of skin and hair removed) and salted and placed in an imu - a banana leaf-lined pit filled with hot stones. The pig is covered in more dirt and left for hours until smoky and falling apart tender.

Cuba: Cubans love their lechón (suckling pig), a Christmas Eve tradition. Pigs are often cooked in backyard roasters made from bricks or cinder blocks. One popular version of the homemade roaster is called a "caja china" (a Chinese box), a rather coffin-like device in which the pig is placed on the metal-lined bottom and a tray of coals is placed on top, cooking the meat through indirect heat.

Italy: At the annual Sagra del Maiale festival of pork, Italians grill whole pigs over a food fire and lovingly dis-articulate them to feed the whole village. Skin becomes crispy and meat is buttery soft and succulent. And not a big of the porker is wasted - even the ears and trotters are fair game. Not headed to Italy any time soon? Some Italian restaurants in NYC and other cities have their own Sagra del Maiale.

The Philippines: The image of the golden-skinned pig spinning on a spit over a roaring fire is a reality here in the South Pacific, where Filipinos adore stuffing the pig's belly with herbs and spices, impaling it horizontally, and roasting it until the skin crackles and the meat is meltingly tender. The dish, known as lechon baboy, is a festival day favorite.

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]]>americaasiacarribeancubadid you knowextreme grillingExtremeGrillinghawaiiislandsitalypigporkroast pigEmily MatcharFri, 18 Jul 2008 19:00:00 ESTAn entire farm in a burgerhttp://www.slashfood.com/2008/07/02/an-entire-farm-in-a-burger/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/07/02/an-entire-farm-in-a-burger/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/07/02/an-entire-farm-in-a-burger/#commentsFiled under: Food Oddities, On the Blogs, Guilty Pleasures, Head to Tail, Ingredients, Chefs & Restaurants, Fast Food, Restaurants, Offal

Behold the Whatafarm burger, which according to alanbeam.net, via about.blank is "a burger ordered from the Whataburger chain and includes chicken, egg, cheese and bacon. 2 parts cow, 2 parts chicken, 1 part pig."

I'm all for the orgiastic multi-species chow down, what with my penchant for Kentucky burgoo (2 formats of cow -- old and young, lamb, pig, and chicken) and applaud the orderers for their gastronomic gumption. If I were being all harrumphy about it, I could note that the menu offers pig in sausage form and a fish filet as well and they opted for neither, but hey - Michelangelo didn't knock out the Sistine Chapel on his first jaunt up the scaffolding.

We salute you with all hooves, claws and trotters up!

[Via about:blank]

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]]>americabeefcarnivorecarnivoresdairyeggsfast foodfast food chainsfast food restaurantsFastFoodFastFoodChainsFastFoodRestaurantsfoodguilty pleasuresmeatodditiesporkpoultrywhataburgeryumKat KinsmanWed, 02 Jul 2008 23:00:00 ESTExtreme Grilling: My pig pickin'http://www.slashfood.com/2008/06/20/extreme-grilling-my-pig-pickin/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/06/20/extreme-grilling-my-pig-pickin/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/06/20/extreme-grilling-my-pig-pickin/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Ingredients, How To, Offal, Methods

I've always wanted to throw my own pig pickin,' and my departure from North Carolina finally gave me an excuse. So I went for it - whole hog, if you will, earlier this spring.

A pig pickin,' known in other parts of the country as a hog roast, or simply, a barbecue, is a Carolina tradition involving a hog, a converted oil drum cooker and a lot of time.

Pickin' (ALWAYS drop the 'g') have been a stable of church fundraisers, family reunions and political rallies in the South since long before the Civil War, as pork was always much cheaper than beef. You can't feed 100 people much more cheaply than with a nice hog and all the fixin's - baked beans, hush puppies, slaw and sweet tea.

Gallery: Pig Pickin'

The cooker

Raw hog

Salting the hog

Coals and sand

6:30 a.m.

Continue reading Extreme Grilling: My pig pickin'

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]]>americabarbecuingextreme grillingExtremeGrillinggrillpig pickinporksouthernsouthern statesEmily MatcharFri, 20 Jun 2008 10:30:00 ESTAn offaly good dinner at the Astor Center - P20http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p20/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p20/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p20/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Offal

Here's a look at the dinner.

Michael Ruhlman calls up Chris Cosentino for a round of applause after the dinner.

And for those of you who would like to see a short video about the dinner click here to see it at NY Magazine online at Grub Street.

Back to beginning

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]]>Jonathan M. ForesterMon, 10 Mar 2008 17:05:00 ESTAn offaly good dinner at the Astor Center - P19http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p19/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p19/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p19/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Offal

Plating the blood orange cockscombs and rice pudding.

Blood orange candied cockscombs, with bay leaf rice pudding
Wine: Recioto di Soave "Col Foscarin", Gini 2004, Veneto

The Bay Leaf Rice Pudding was excellent. The candied cockscombs tasted like blood orange gummi's. It was weird, interesting, and actually pretty good.

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]]>Jonathan M. ForesterMon, 10 Mar 2008 17:05:00 ESTAn offaly good dinner at the Astor Center - P18http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p18/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p18/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p18/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Offal

Whole roasted spring lamb neck, with sheep's milk polenta and gremolata
Wine: Nieddera Rosso, Contini 2003, Sardinia

The lambs neck was rubbed with a mixture of Meyer lemons, garlic and wild fennel; and then roasted at 200ºF for seven hours. It was rich and deep flavored with no gaminess. Served with it was broccoli rabe which was nicely bitter and mustardy, and a very rich sheep's milk polenta. This dish was HUGE! No one could finish it and many folks took the remains home with them to enjoy the next day.

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]]>Jonathan M. ForesterMon, 10 Mar 2008 17:05:00 ESTAn offaly good dinner at the Astor Center - P17http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p17/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p17/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p17/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Offal

Preparing the venison liver. This is free range, wild venison raised by Broken Arrow Ranch of Ingram Texas. The deer are actually wild and are hunted by helicopter and then rushed to the slaughterhouse to be butchered there as FDA approved.

Crudo of venison liver, with beets and juniper balsamic vinegar
Wine: Sangue di Giuda, Tenimenti Confalonieri, la Versa 2006, Lombardy

The wine was excellent, a frizzante, slightly sparkling and slightly sweet with lots of ripe berry flavor.

The raw venison liver had been scalded in blistering hot olive oil to briefly cook the outside. The flavor was nice but the texture turned me off so much that I couldn't eat it, which is pretty rare for me.

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]]>Jonathan M. ForesterMon, 10 Mar 2008 17:05:00 ESTAn offaly good dinner at the Astor Center - P16http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p16/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p16/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p16/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Offal

Mazen Mustafa, Chef de Cuisine at Public, plating the lobster onto the trotter roulades.

Turf and Surf: Pork Trotters and Lobster Tarragon
Wine: Ribolla Gialla, La Castellada 2000, Friuli-Venezia Giulia

The lobster salad was delightful, with two types of grapefruit and tarragon leaves.

The trotter roulades were delicious, amazingly rich and complex. When you cut them open they had nuggets of sweet meat surrounded by the gelatinous skin and fat. I only ate half of one because it was so rich. One of my tablemates was Michael Yezzi, owner of Flying Pigs Farms who supplied the pigs feet. We had a short chat about them and the rare breeds of hogs he raises.

The wine was the most unusual color, a sort of yellow/brown/gold. I leaned over to my left and pointed it out to Mike Colameco of the Colameco's Food Show on TV and the WOR radio show Food Talk. I said that it looked like it was oxidized and he agreed with me. Then we tasted it. yes it was oxidized, but pleasantly so with many things going on in it. It had a musky, almost mold like flavor that was very interesting and very good. We asked about the wine and got another pour each and found out that the Ribolla Gialla is made like this on purpose. It's a love it or leave it wine. I loved it and thought it went very well with the dish.

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]]>Jonathan M. ForesterMon, 10 Mar 2008 17:05:00 ESTAn offaly good dinner at the Astor Center - P15http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p15/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p15/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p15/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Offal

Chris taking a short break before getting back to work.

The Chefs pose for a group photo. I will post names later.

Aaron watching all the craziness and probably thankful he has the day off from his restaurant. he's wearing one of Chris's t-shirts, "Lips & Assholes." You can get them here.

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]]>Jonathan M. ForesterMon, 10 Mar 2008 17:05:00 ESTAn offaly good dinner at the Astor Center - P14http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p14/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p14/http://www.slashfood.com/2008/03/10/an-offaly-good-dinner-at-the-astor-center-p14/#commentsFiled under: Head to Tail, Offal

Beef tendon & sweetbreads, with chile and mint being plated.

Beef tendon & sweetbreads, with chile and mint
Wine: Nero d'Avelo, Feudo Montoni 2003, Sicily

The sweetbreads (pancreas and thymus glands) were the best I ever had; creamy and meaty. This is kind of funny because I had just said the same thing less than 24 hours before at another event.

The beef tendons were in chillies, mint, and arugula. They were slightly peppery, paper thin, translucent sheets that had the slightest al dente texture with a hint of a crunch to them that was great in your mouth. The greens were slightly floral and musky which was a great counter-point to the tendon and sweetbreads.

The wine was absolutely excellent with a full load of fruit flavor and a nice spiciness that went great with the dish.

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]]>Jonathan M. ForesterMon, 10 Mar 2008 17:05:00 EST