Ingredient Spotlight

Bourbon in the U.S.A. - When Are Mixers Not OK?

by Alex Van Buren, Posted Apr 14th 2009 @ 3:00PM

Do not come between a Southern gent and his bourbon.

We learned this lesson at a recent NYC party when we observed a Mississippi native seize a bottle of Knob Creek, shake its last drops angrily into a cup and grab a bottle of pricey, small-batch Woodford Reserve only to be outraged to find this also nearly gone. "I knew I should have hidden the good stuff from these people!" he shouted, shaking his fist at the guests he'd invited to his home.

The cause of this maniacal outburst from a mild-mannered gent? Bourbon, and the thought of mixing it with store-bought gingerale. A wide-eyed belle from Jersey had ordered up a whiskey-and-ginger. Since only his finest was left, he delivered the bourbon abomination with a sigh, grumbling about "corn syrup on beautiful whiskey" in a thick accent en route.

Making a whiskey-n-ginger with the best bourbon in the house is where we -- who have certainly enjoyed a Jameson 'n ginger or (hic!) three -- would draw the line. But what does Chris Morris, master distiller at Woodford Reserve (the official whiskey of Derby Day) think?

Slashfood: "A party guest wants to combine supermarket gingerale with your excellent bourbon. Do you flip out?

Morris: "To be quite honest, I think whisky and gingerale is a great drink. Woodford Reserve has hints of ginger and a nice little citrus note and goes well with gingerale, a classic highball. Our response to anybody who thinks it's an insult is the question, 'Well, do you enjoy it?' If the answer is 'yes,' it's perfectly all right. We want make a great first impression, so if that person is a gingerale highball drinker, what better way than with Woodford Reserve in place of your regular bourbon?"

Hmm. Very interesting. What do y'all think:

Did the lady cross the line?
Yes	168 (43.4%)
No	219 (56.6%)

Filed under: Liquor Cabinet, Ingredient Spotlight, Drink Recipes, Drinks

Some Like It Hot

COMMENTS 1

by Jennifer Iserloh, Posted Apr 13th 2009 @ 1:00PM

Tear-jerking, hot, spicy, smoky, sweet and sour and even herbaceous can all be descriptors of chilies and the distinctive aromas and flavors that they can impart to food. But if we're just talking heat, the Bhut Naga Jolokia, hailing from Northeastern India and also cultivated in Sri Lanka and Bangladesh, is reputed to be the world's hottest chili -- and I've eaten it. In large amounts it's dangerously hot, but out of all the dried chilies I've cooked with, the Naga Jolokia is a staple in my spice drawer because it has a unique tang that's much more than just heat. There are hundreds of chilies to choose from, but I have my favorites, both dried and fresh.

Dried Ground Allepo Chile

Sun dried Allepo chiles come from Syria and have a rich, lightly smoky yet fruity flavor. They can be found in gourmet spice shops; I bought mine at Kalustyan's in New York City. Allepo can be added to any traditional beef stew recipe, but it pairs especially nicely with tomato-based soups, stews and chili. I just add a tablespoon to my beef cubes before coating them in flour and browning them in oil, or I sprinkle it over the ground meat before browning chili meat.

Fresh Serrano and Finger Chilies

Serrano chilies are grown in Mexico and California and can be found fresh in gourmet grocery stores. Use it much as you would a jalapeno; I like it in my guacamole. They're also great in marinades mixed with fresh cilantro, garlic, and olive oil.

Dried Arbol Chilies

Dried arbol chilies, primarily grown in Mexico and a cousin to the cayenne chile, can be found in Latin groceries stores. I love arbol with sweet oranges. The simple combination with a little olive oil can make for a killer sauce for sautéed shrimp. But this morning, I had a craving for a mall-style Orange Julius. I wanted to make a sweet drink for myself, but with less sugar, more nutrition, and a little extra kick. This one tasted like the real deal, but packed extra spice from arbol.

After the jump, get Jennifer's recipe for a Chile Spiked Orange Smoothie.

Filed under: Ingredient Spotlight, The Skinny Chef, Ingredients

Queso Blanco: The Joy of Latin American Cheese

COMMENTS 3

by Bruce Watson, Posted Mar 19th 2009 @ 11:00AM

Before I moved to New York, I generally thought that the proper cheese for most Latin American foods was Monterey Jack. While my local Mexican restaurant occasionally sprinkled a feta-like concoction on top of my beans, I assumed that it was some sort of seasoning, more or less used in the same way that a sprinkle of parmesan, romano or peccorino is the traditional accent for Italian food.

I quickly realized that things are a bit different in Latin American communities. Outside Super Mundo, my local department store, the "Sabor de Mexico" taco truck is more or less permanently parked. While not as good as the "Miraveles de Mexico" restaurant a few blocks up, the taco truck serves some of the best burritos, tacos and flautas I've ever had. As I became a regular customer, I noticed that every dish had a nice smattering of crumbled cheese on top.

Filed under: Budget Cuisine, Ingredient Spotlight, Cheese Course, Food Politics, Ingredients

Vietnamese Coriander - Ingredient Spotlight

COMMENTS 1

by Emily Matchar, Posted Mar 16th 2009 @ 11:00AM

It looks like basil and smells like lemon, but this emerald green herb is actually a member of the buckwheat family. Native to Southeast Asia, Vietnamese coriander is used much like cilantro, its close cousin, flavor-wise. In Vietnam, it's used fresh in salads and summer rolls or cooked in soups and stews. In Singapore, it's is known as laksa leaf and is one of the main flavorings in a pungent curry noodle soup called laksa. You can find Vietnamese coriander in many Asian markets in the United States. Use it in stir fries, or try tearings bits of it into hot chicken soup with lime and chili for a pho-like flavor.

Filed under: Ingredient Spotlight

Kaya - Ingredient Spotlight

COMMENTS 9

by Emily Matchar, Posted Mar 2nd 2009 @ 4:00PM

Flying back to the States from Singapore last month, my mind kept flitting back to my suitcase, rattling around in the cold darkness of the baggage compartment. Because in that suitcase, wrapped up in several layers of t-shirts, was a treasure - three glass jars of kaya.

Kaya, a rich coconut jam made from eggs, coconut milk and sugar, is wildly popular in Singapore and Malaysia, where it's eaten on toast with butter (the ubiquitious "kaya toast") for breakfast, stuffed into donuts, and spread between the layers of angel food cakes. My favorite type of kaya is tinged green with pandan, though there are golden non-pandan versions as well. Texture varies dependent on brand, but most kaya has a creamy yet slightly grainy mouthfeel similar to apple butter.

I've been eating kaya spooned over Greek yogurt with sliced bananas for breakfast. It's also good stirred into oatmeal or paired with peanut butter for PB&K sandwiches.

Frustratingly, I can't find new supplies of kaya in my area, despite poring over the shelves of a dozen different Asian markets. I'll be sure to look for it next time I'm in New York. Have any of you seen kaya in your neck of the woods?

Filed under: Ingredient Spotlight

Tin Gods - The Society for the Appreciation of Sardines

COMMENTS 2

by Bruce Watson, Posted Feb 28th 2009 @ 4:00PM

While I wouldn't describe myself as a complete sardine junkie, I have to admit that I have a definite appreciation of canned fish. My favorite is probably salmon; when I was a kid, we'd fight over the chalky bones, and I still get a smile out of crunching down on them.

Still, sardines are a lot of fun. While the bad ones tend to taste like cat food, the good ones offer a rich, subtle flavor that is delightful. In some cases, I've even had sardines that I would describe as transcendent, with a mild taste and a silky mouthfeel. Even in the worst of circumstances, sardines are cool to look at, and are a cheap meal.

Even if I'm not a sardine fanatic, I have a very warm space in my heart for mildly obsessive-compulsive behavior; for this reason, the Society for the Appreciation of Sardines blog definitely gives me a smile. With sardine reviews, recipes, and lore, it contains everything that a fan of the oily canned fish could possibly want.

Now what about anchovies?

Filed under: Food Oddities, On the Blogs, Ingredient Spotlight, Ingredients

Roland Tarragon Mustard

COMMENTS 2

by Eric Diesel, Posted Feb 23rd 2009 @ 2:01PM

roland tarragon mustard While on weekend food safari (scored: manchego, kraeme kase, smoked mozzarella, soppresata, genoa salami and muffaletta for Oscars antipasti), I was reminded that there is nothing like a Manhattan supermarket. If you only experience the city through media, you might never think that urban superpeople on the move need to buy groceries, so somehow it's touching to be among us when we do. For those who've never had the pleasure: picture a supermarket where there's barely room to maneuver yourself, let alone a cart, and then picture that space full of lifers piloting push-carts filled with whatever can be stored in tiny kitchenettes.

Another secret of urban foraging is the Roland Corporation, a New York City-based food importer whose offerings grace my cupboards in every format from tinned anchovies for Caesar salad to fragrant pumpkinseed oil for the accompanying pasta. Someone at Roland knows me and my kind: we orthodox mustardphiliacs cannot enter a space where condiments are vended without investigating what treats the mustard aisle is offering. And that's how, in a Chelsea Gristedes, I discovered Roland Tarragon Mustard.

Filed under: Business, Ingredient Spotlight, Ingredients

Bacon, Bacon Everywhere...And, Oh My Pants Did Shrink!

COMMENTS 7

by Bruce Watson, Posted Feb 21st 2009 @ 4:00PM

What is the deal with bacon lately?

Admittedly, it's not as if the delicious fruit of a smoked pig's belly was ever all that obscure; stlll, over the past few weeks, it has been gaining a fresh, and sometimes repulsive cultural relevance. A little over a month ago, Marisa McClellan covered The Bacon Explosion, a spicy, smoked, barbecue-basted brick of pure pork. Truth be told, the explosion is kind of like a bug zapper: terrifying and vaguely dangerous, yet attractive and deeply compelling. Worse yet, for those of us who don't have a meat smoker, the explosion's creators have put together an oven recipe.

As if this wasn't enough, over on RiffTrax Blog, Michael Nelson has announced his intention to eat nothing but bacon for an entire month. As he has struggled through February, a reader has produced a bacon effigy, dubbed FrankenBacon, to demonstrate the aftereffects of too much pork. For those of us who are sometimes haunted by the ghosts of our meat, FrankenBacon is actually a little scary.

Meanwhile, in my constant quest for the best boutique bonbons in New York City, I recently came across an article about Roni-Sue's Chocolates, a company in New York's Essex Street Market. Although Roni-Sue's carries a wide array of truffles and candies, I was immediately drawn to their pig candy. Basically crispy-fried bacon dipped in chocolate, this hearkens back to the sugar-crusted pig candy that my wife and I used to make.

Meanwhile, I'm getting that old carnival feeling--the same one I have when the halcyon call of the deep fryer draws me in with its promise of batter-fried Oreos and funnel cakes. Must...resist...the call...

Who am I kidding? I'll probably hit Roni-Sue's this weekend. On the bright side, maybe it will make it easier for me to resist the siren song of the Bacon Explosion!

Filed under: Ingredient Spotlight, Guilty Pleasures, Ingredients

Pork Floss - Ingredient Spotlight

COMMENTS 12

by Emily Matchar, Posted Feb 17th 2009 @ 5:00PM

No, I didn't shave a Viking's beard. That's pork floss. What? Yes, pork floss. Known as rousong in Mandarin, it's exactly what it sounds like – dried sweetened roast pork pulled to separate the fibers and spun until it has the texture of crispy cotton candy. And it's awesome. It's got the same flavor profile as teriyaki beef jerky - a little bit sweet, a little bit spicy, a lot salty and a lot meaty.

Pork floss buns - fluffy, sweetish rolls topped with pork floss and filled with mayonnaise cream - are a big thing in Singapore and Malaysia. Believe me, they're much nicer than they sound - the comforting flavors of meat and mayo, with an incredible blend of crunchy, soft and creamy textures. Chow Times has an article about the various uses of pork floss, from a topping for rice or congee to a grilled cheese sandwich filling. My personal favorite use is in a Vietnamese-style baguette sandwich, with pate (I substitute sliced turkey), lettuce, cilantro, vinaigrette and mayo.

You can find tubs or bags of pork floss at many Asian groceries. If you're really lucky, they'll have fish, chicken or shrimp floss as well.

Filed under: Ingredient Spotlight

Skordalia - Ingredient Spotlight

COMMENTS 2

by Emily Matchar, Posted Feb 14th 2009 @ 1:00PM

It's a great word, Skordalia. Sounds like a flower that grows on Venus, or a rare breed of pygmy squid. What it is in fact is a Greek dip made from pureed potatoes and garlic. Not as exotic as a Venusian dandelion, but probably much tastier. The Recipes for Health column in the New York Times has a version using nothing more than potatoes, kosher salt, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice. The kind of thing you can whip up out of spare pantry ingredients and wildly impress your hungry friends. Skordalia is traditionally served with fried fish or cooked vegetables, but it's also excellent as a spread or a dip for raw veggies. Try it in a sandwich with roasted red peppers and spinach.

Source

Filed under: Ingredient Spotlight