One of the most delightful and plentiful coffee bean regions is Ethiopia, offering "percs" that include Yirgacheffe, Sidamo, Harrar and Limu. As a home coffee roaster, one of my greatest delights is pulling out some Harrar, letting the roasting smells infiltrate my apartment, and then partake in its smooth, rich and reliable flavor. And if you think it's just coffee snobbery, a report once stated that Harrar was "the single most requested coffee from our customers and partners" at Starbucks.
But the whole rich and diverse world of Ethiopian coffee might be in danger.
As The New York Times reports, the Ethiopian government has suspended the licenses of the largest coffee exporters, meaning that for the time being, no coffee is leaving Ethiopia. But there's a little more to it. See, the government thinks that exporters are keeping coffee off the market to get the prices to rise. So, to make sure all beans get an adequate price, the government mandated that growers sell their crops through the Ethiopian Commodity Exchange.
While great in theory, it has one big flaw -- roasters outside of Ethiopia wouldn't be able to buy beans from a specific, beloved farmer. The prevalent fear: This means the end of location-specific Ethiopian purchases -- so buying Yirgacheffe coffee wouldn't be the bean we've come to know, but rather a sort of all-round brand.
The ordeal is still playing out, but popular stores like The Green Beanery are already selling out some Ethiopian brands, so if you have a deep love for a specific, tasty region, you might want to to pick up some extra.
Gourmet's Barry Estabrook investigates the plight of Florida tomato pickers. The following is an excerpt of his findings published on Gourmet.com.
A little slavery is okay, just not too much of it.
At this writing, that appears to be the official government position in the state of Florida, and it could explain why the fields of the Sunshine State provide such fertile ground for modern-day slavery. In the past dozen years, police have broken up and prosecuted seven slave operations there, freeing more than 1,000 men and women who were kept captive and forced to work for little or no money and threatened with death if they tried to escape. (For more on the plight of the Florida tomato pickers, see my article "The Price of Tomatoes" in the March 2009 issue of Gourmet.)
Late last year, two members of the Navarrete family, the operators of what has been recognized as the most brutal slave ring the state has seen, were sentenced to 12 years in prison; two others received lesser sentences. Justice having been done, it was an ideal opportunity for Governor Charlie Crist, who enjoys a very high approval rating, to spend a bit of that political capital to condemn the practice and announce bold steps to prevent it.
Today, Slashfood wishes prominent food writer, speaker, and celebrity Michael Pollan happy birthday. Pollan's revolutionary and compelling arguments about the direction of the food industry continues to influence both food enthusiasts and politicians. The Omnivore's Dillemma has become somewhat of a bible for gourmands, farmers, and people simply concerned with reforming the modern food chain.
When I think of the trend to eat local I think of Pollan and his impressive impact on American food culture. It's no wonder that on May 8, 2007, the James Beard Foundation named The Omnivore's Dilemma its 2007 winner for the best food writing. Recently, Pollan published In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto which reveals the relationship with what he terms "nutritionism" and the "Western diet." Recently, he is investigating practices of the meat industry.
While Pollan did not initiate the current discourse on food, he has contributed enormously to it. Pollan's work on the food industry and trends in American agriculture have drastically opened up people's minds when thinking about how to eat. In 2002, he received the Reuters World Conservation Union Global Awards in environmental journalism.
There's no golden ticket in this new pricey chocolate bar, but you'll win more than a mere factory tour if you choose one of Lesal Ruskey's $13 treats.
The San Francisco chocolatier promises to plant a tree for every purchase of her 3.5-ounce Original Beans bars. She tells the San Francisco Chronicle that she'll plant a tree in the rain forest of the country where the bar's fair-trade cacao beans originate -- either Bolivia, Ecuador or the Congo. A certificate on the wrapper lets eaters know where their bar's beans came from.
"People are very judicious about spending their dollars," Ruskey told the paper. "We also believe if consumers are going to invest their precious dollars in an affordable luxury that they're investing in more than fleeting pleasure."
Analysts say that the shaky economy doesn't mean people are cutting back on expensive chocolate.
"It sounds expensive, but compared to a diamond or a car or a pair of a jeans or anything else you decide to be frivolous about, it's not that expensive," food analyst Marcia Mogelonsky told the paper.
While Original Beans is by no means the priciest chocolate bar on the market -- French producer Bonnat's bars top $22 -- it remains to be seen whether choco-nuts will plunk down the $13 for a taste of the eco-friendly treat.
Having eaten more than my fair share of dense, nutrient-rich energy bars over the years, I have to admit that I was a little wary of Kind bars. After all, most protein bars, energy bars, and other supposedly healthy meal-replacement snacks are long on nutrients, short on flavor, and have a taste that is reminiscent of high school chemistry class. So, when I got my first "Mango Macadamia" bar, I closed my eyes, gingerly nibbled, and tasted...food. Truth be told, it was absolutely delicious, with a sweet, gooey nuttiness and a complex texture that pleased both my palate and my tongue. Looking at the ingredients, I was happy to note that the bar only contained two ingredients that I could not easily picture (potassium citrate, calcium sulphate), and had a pretty solid nutritional profile.
This is not to say that all Kind bars are created equal. While I loved the Mango Macadamia and Strawberry Nut Delight, the Almond and Cashew was bland and the Almond, Walnut, and Macadamia was dry, somewhat sawdusty, and a little too close to a traditional granola bar. Also, at $2 per bar (a fair bit less if you buy online), the price is a little high for a daily snack.
On the other hand, Kind, and its parent company, PeaceWorks Holdings, donate 5% of all profits to charity, focusing their efforts on promoting peace across the world. Thus, although the pricetag might not be a little big, it supports a good cause. Moreover, when a bar tastes as good as the Mango Macadamia, even $2 a pop seems like a great deal!
One of my favorite stores to wander into when I'm downtown is the Ten Thousand Villages Fair Trade Store. The merchandise is always high quality and a remarkably good value despite the fact that the people who craft the items are assured timely and fair payment for their work, plus ongoing contracts to guarantee future income.
Now Fair Trade has come to the wine world with the first nationwide introduction of Fair Trade Certified wine. So what does "Fair Trade" really mean? In the wine world, many family vineyards in developing countries have a tough time meeting market demand for quality grapes AND paying their workers enough, ensuring safe working conditions, and getting a good enough price for the crop to eke out their own living.
Fair Trade Certified means a producer is guaranteed a minimum price for the grapes, their workers earn a living wage, and wine-producing communities receive community development funding. At Stellar Organics Fair Trade Certified vineyard in South Africa, for example, workers have established a commercial community organic vegetable garden with its own educational garden used to train children in organic farming. Income from the garden and vineyard go into a university education fund for children of the workers.
Continue reading "Wine of the Week: Fair Trade wine" after the jump.
About a month ago, a box containing four 12-ounce bags of Ugly Mug Coffee appeared in my mailbox. I had never heard of this unpretentious coffee roaster (out of Memphis, TN) before they emailed asking if I'd like to taste their beans. However, being the coffee addict lover that I am, I was more than happy to give their coffee a run through my French press.
Four weeks later, I'm a bit mournful, as I'm coming to the end of my Ugly Mug stash. This has been uniformly delicious coffee. I got to try four of their blends, Good Vibes, First Cup, Hardy Passion and Saving Grace. Each have been full-flavored and interesting, with great brewing aroma. The clever names and appealing packaging (we all hate to admit it, but it does make a difference) add to the experience.
In addition to producing really tasty coffee, Ugly Mug also has a commitment to roasting fair trade beans. They are in the process of setting up economic assistance programs for coffee growers that will give Ugly Mug the ability to more directly support the farmers.
I'm trying to eat more sustainably, choosing "pastured" meats and dairy, free-range eggs, and local, organic produce from small farms; I'm also trying to virtually eliminate processed foods from my family's diet. I have three small boys and a husband who grew up on Fruit Loops and KFC. I live in the city (Portland, Oregon); I work full-time; and I'm learning to garden. This is my story.
I don't think I have an addictive personality, but it's true: I'm addicted to caffeine. Not only am I an addict, I'm something of a snob, pooh-poohing Starbucks and supermarket brands for single-estate coffee beans and PG Tips tea. It's ok: as luxuries go, my choices aren't terribly draining on family finances. At about $10 a 12-ounce bag, my coffee habit runs me less than $20 a week.
But. I'm trying to eat local, honoring as much of the spirit of the 100-mile diet and the locavores as I can (though my range is probably more like 300 miles, given how huge is my home state of Oregon).
After an insane multi-week phase last month when I could not force myself to sleep for more than three hours a night, I am trying my hardest to rely on natural sources of energy. I have turned away as much as I can from things like energy drinks in favor of plain old water, pure personal adrenaline, and natural sugar energy from fruit. (I haven't given up coffee. What am I? Crazy?)
A new beverage from Steaz just might make me break because though it is marketed as an "energy drink," all of the energy sources are natural -- green tea, yerba mate, acai, and guarana. I realize that many of the ingredients in products like Red Bull and Monster could also be counted as "natural," but have you seen a glass of red bull in a darkened room? There is nothing natural about the fact that it literally glows.
Steaz Energy comes from the makers of Guayaki and Sambazon, so not only does their drink provides energy, but the natural and organic ingredients are sourced from sustainable, local producers. The Ceylon tea ingredient is Fair Trade Certified. An energy drink with a conscience!
Starbucks, contrary to popular belief, does not pays less for their coffee than other coffee buyers, using their size to bully their suppliers into meeting extremely low prices (like one here-unnamed major retailer does). In the past year, Starbucks paid about 36% more than the average price per pound of coffee beans, shelling out $1.42 for every pound of beans they bought.
Does this definitively prove that Starbucks is making the world a better place for all coffee growers and that there will be no starving farmers working coffee plantations in the world? Of course not. The latter problem can't be helped because that low average price means that there are companies paying far, far less for their products. What this does mean is that Starbucks is making positive policies that will benefit growers in the long run, setting a higher standard that other buyers will, hopefully, meet at some point.
Marion Nestle says that when she talks to people, she hears "this phenomenal sense of despair about their inability to do anything about climate change, or the disparity between rich and poor." A despair that she says is alleviated by a trip to the grocery store where "they can make decisions about what they are buying and send a very clear message." Perhaps people really do express these sentiments to her, but unless specifically directed, it seems unlikely that most people make the connection between relieving their feeling of despair over the "disparity between rich and poor" and shopping for groceries - in this case, probably organic ones.
But it is true that consumers have the power to change the marketplace and that they are doing it every day with the decisions they make at the grocery store, as The Economist mentioned in a recent article. The organic food industry is growing by leaps and bounds and there is an ever-increasing call for higher-quality food, held to higher standards, whether they are organic, local, fair-trade, hormone-free, etc.
Endangered Species Chocolate doesn't just turn on their social conscience during the holidays. They use only cocoa that is 100% ethically traded, meaning that they choose the small, family farms in Nigeria (the Conacada Co-op) as their source and ensure a living wage for those farmers. The ESC's holiday gift packs are a good chance to spread some holiday good will even farther than you ordinarily might. Their milk and dark chocolate holiday treats come in individually sized wrappers and are great stocking stuffers. Candyblog reviewed their chocolates before and described the milk chocolate as being similar to European-style bars, while the dark chocolate was fruity, buttery and dense.
Needless to say, our favorite gift on their list is the Limited Edition Chef's Deluxe Chocolate Baking Kit. It includes gourmet baking rounds (9 oz. of 88% cocoa dark baking chocolate); two milk chocolate bars; roasted Cocoa Nibs(6 oz.); a chocolate-colored apron, a spatula, a large hand-coiled green apple bamboo mixing bowl and a couple of chocolate recipes to get you started. At $95, it's not cheap, but it is a chocolatly gift that will make a great impression and that will have a utility (from the bowl, apron, etc.) that will last a whole lot longer than the included chocolate bars.
According to their mission statement, sweetriot's goal is to "create a more just and celebrated multicultural world for our next generation." A fine mission, to be sure, but what they actually do is sell a line of chocolate covered cacao nibs. Appropriately named "peaces", all of their products are all-natural, gmo-free, dairy-free, kosher, gluten-free and feature only fair trade chocolate. In addition to carrying a social cause, they also taste great. The nibs come in three primary flavors, divided and named by the cacao content of the chocolate that enrobes the nibs. Flavor 50 is a mild dark chocolate and almost similar in flavor to milk chocolate, though it is dairy-free. Flavor 65 is a classic dark chocolate and flavor 70 (pictured) is extra dark and boosted with a bit of espresso.
My favorite way to eat them is to mix the three different peace mixes - 50, 65 and 70 - together. The sweeter 50 takes the edge off the dark 70, while leaving a nice espresso taste. Basically, they all just get along - and there's no need to overthink it because it tastes so good.
If you want to give them a taste, the Happy holly-days pack and Hanukah packs deliver one tin of each flavor and also make great little gifts. You can also try the newest flavor, 70cinn, which is a limited edition flavor released just for the holidays.
Intelligentsia Coffee is on a mission to get the best beans money can buy, and they have an unusual strategy for getting results. Instead of seeking out beans and trying to get the at the lowest price point possible, they seek out direct trade relationships with growers, help them to grow the best coffee they can and then pay them far more than the going rate for the beans. In fact, they pay growers over 25% more than the Fair Trade coffee prices. They charge their customers a fair price, too, and no one is complaining.
Why isn't Fair Trade's standard good enough for Intelligentsia? "Fair Trade relates to working conditions, not the quality of coffee beans." And while the working conditions are important, it is the beans, not the workers, which flavor the coffee. With the growers, Intelligentsia offers financial incentives and trains them to improve their growing methods, producing premium beans. They also help communities develop coffee tasting centers and teach them to evaluate their own products, because Intelligentsia pays individual farmers based on their products, not a flat rate to a production company or co-op. Furthermore, one of their guarantees to their growers is that their rates will only increase over time.
The company's promise to consumers is some of the best coffee in the world.
CaféDirect now claims that its new TeaDirect brand has overtaken Brooke Bond tea to become the 7th largest tea brand in the UK.
Not that I drink tea (how un-English is that!) but both my Polish and French friends do (Hi Lukasz, Hi Nic) not with milk but with a slice of lemon. Coffee is my thing - and I always return to the Café Direct brand (medium roast, the one in the blue bag) not just because it is fairtrade, although that is important, but because it just tastes the best!
I've just checked the tea-bags in the cupboard. While they are still fairtrade they are produced by Clipper Teas. No idea where this brand fall in the sales league though.
We can change the way we make eggs -- scrambled, poached, fried -- but what about changing the eggs themselves? Mix up your scrambling routine with quail eggs.