Cheese Course

Photo: Cabot Creamery

It's no secret that Vermont is just as much a "cheese state" as Wisconsin. We all know about Vermont cheddars, in particular the wax-covered logs from Cabot Creamery and those from Grafton Village Cheese. But, over the past couple of months, smaller and more artisanal Vermont dairies, including Lazy Lady Farm and Willow Hill Farm, have been receiving attention from everyone from the New York Times Magazine to big names in food like Martha Stewart. What has prompted these cheesemakers to receive such positive media attention and to make it big in the marketplace? Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, the Che Guevara of cheeses.

After speaking to Mateo Kehler, co-owner of Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, Vt., we discovered that the artisanal Cabot Clothbound Cheddar is not only unique because of its mouthwatering, nutty, caramel-like taste, but also because of its pivotal role in allowing smaller Vermont cheese producers to blossom. The latter is responsible for the growth of Mateo's aging facility, the Cellars at Jasper Hill, where the cheddar is aged for approximately 10 months. "The cheese supplies us with the necessary cash flow to be able to financially support smaller dairies," says Kehler. He refers to the cheese as an "economic engine" in the Vermont cheese scene. Back in 2005, when Kehler took over the sales of Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, he sold 7,000 pounds of the cheese in just one week!

Over the past few years, Japanese chefs have been coming to Paris and taking on several aspects of French cuisine, from hamburger d'escargots au foie gras to macarons. Instead of opening up mere fusion-type food establishments, they are creating innovative approaches to long-established French dishes. For instance, Makoto Aoki brings out the juicy flavors of roast pork by adding soy sauce and miso. At a different Aoki shop (not related to Makoto), Sadaharu Aoki, there's white chocolate with sesame and salted caramel truffles with green tea. Even cheese, a dairy product that does not even exist in traditional Japanese cuisine, is being given a new life thanks to renowned Paris-based Japanese affineur Madame Hisada. She creates a new take on the traditional French Banon, a goat's milk cheese from Provence, by aging it in cherry leaves instead of chestnut leaves.

French cheese lovers tend to associate tomme-style cheese with its circular round shape, earthy gray-brown rind. Other distinguishing characteristics include its pale white semi-soft to firm paste and intensely nutty taste. Despite all the similarities, there's tons of variety when it comes to the type of milk and the overall flavor profile.

From France's renowned cow's milk Tomme de Savoie to Twig Farm's goat's milk tomme, the consistency and taste of this cheese can vary rather drastically -- with varying notes of rich hazelnut and mild citrus flavor and a texture from firm to crumbly. Given all these renditions, what exactly makes a tomme a tomme?

According to Michael Lee, cheesemaker and co-owner (with Emily Sunderman) of Twig Farm in West Cornwall, VT, "There is a basic recipe and process that is common to all of these cheeses. The differences come from decisions made from within the same matrix." So, what exactly does this cheesy matrix entail?

Never underestimate the mood-enhancing properties of cheese. From the melted Gruyère on French onion soup to the crisp layer of cheddar over macaroni and cheese, nothing beats a melted cheese dish to warm-up the body (and to revitalize and delight the soul during winter). Cheese meals, like fondue, boost both delight and pleasure thanks not only to their taste but also because they bring together friends and family.

Recently, we spoke with renowned chefs to find out their choices of American cheese for the ever-so-popular fondue. This week, we turn to a lesser known -- yet equally delicious -- Alpine cheese dish that's sure to stimulate joy around the dining table: Tartiflette. Hailing from the Haute-Savoie, the Alpine region of France bordering Switzerland and Italy, Tartiflette is a baked dish consisting of layers of sliced potatoes and onions, bacon, crème fraîche, and topped with melted Reblochon, a soft-ripened cow's milk cheese also from the region.

Cheese fondue, the Swiss communal dish of bread dipped in a pot of hot melted cheese, is the ideal antidote to the frosty cold dark winter. Its mere heat, rich taste, and pungent aroma warm up the body, comfort the soul, and awaken the palate. In addition, it's a shared meal that represents the very essence of conviviality. Shared with friends and family members, cheese fondue is the perfect remedy to fight off the "winter blues." And, one of the most exciting parts about making fondue is the creative process involved in selecting the cheeses.

Although most cheese fondue recipes tend to call for Swiss cheeses such as Emmentaler and Gruyère, there's no reason why Americans cannot choose stateside alternatives. In fact, in Switzerland, nearly every canton makes fondue using locally sourced cheeses. So what's an American cook to do when trying to use domestic cheeses in his or her fondue? In order to find out, we talked to two prominent U.S. chefs who specialize in melted cheeses: Ralf Kuettel from New York's Trestle on Tenth and Terrance Brennan, who runs restaurants such as New York's Artisanal and Picholine and Bellevue's Artisanal Brasserie and The Artisanal Table Pizzeria Enoteca, both just outside of Seattle.