Man, I can't believe I let a whole decade of ambivalence separate me from what is now proving to be both my savior and my downfall, the nitrous fuel for the racecar that is myself... red bull. They're small, they're expensive, but if I drink more than two of them in the same afternoon, I'll be up for the next 24 hours.
Messin' with the bull, gettin' the horns
Not Eating Out in NYC: A blogger's tale
Whether of not you live in
Increasing your sense of taste through darkness
In the US, part of our collective weight problem may be that we are on the consumerist treadmill and can't slow down. If something's really good we make an "mmmmm" sound and then we chow down and drift off to thinking about what we will do later. We watch too much TV, talk on the cell phone incessantly as we rush from place to place, so we forget how to lose ourselves in the sensation of eating, from the first bite through to the last, each lifting of the fork part of the poetry, even the dab of a napkin becomes transcendental if done with one's full attention. Maybe I'm just speaking for myself here. Lately I've taken a vow of no TV and no electric lights in my apartment after work, and it's amazing how much sharper my senses are, eating by candlelight without all the distractions.
Of course the trend of completely dark restaurants is not exactly new, but it seems to me it's still yet to catch on in the US the way it has in Germany, Canada and London. But I say it's time we here in the US began to slow ourselves down a little bit, stop to smell the roses, taste the wine, unplug the TV, and relax... we may not need dark restaurants if we can darken our own living rooms.
Continue reading Increasing your sense of taste through darkness
The Uncooling of Iced Coffee
Now that McDonald's is displaying proud banners throughout NYC that they have "iced coffee!" you can be sure that the once unusual and eccentric beverage is a trend that's exceeded its critical mass. Isn't Mickey D's the barometer of when trends reach the point where they become totally and forever uncool? In the last few years-in New York City at least-iced coffee was the domain of Starbucks and the assorted bagel shops, bakeries and internet/bookstore boutiques. The perfect blend of thirst quench and caffeine jolt, the iced coffee gives you a lift, then makes your tongue shrink up from dehydration as it pulls all the available moisture out of your body to assist in its chemical conversions within your body, but it does NOT make you all gaseous like soda pop might, so you can walk down the street, jaw set in grim determination, and suck that thing down and never make one illusion-of-togetherness shattering "noise."
A little salt for dessert
No matter who you are, where you're from, or what your taste, a salt shaker lives on your table, your stovetop, or your counter. Perhaps all three. Salt is cheap and readily available. Hardly an item exists in your pantry that doesn't list it as an ingredient.
It's chemical name is "sodium chloride." Common table salt is produced by flooding salt deposits with water. The brine which results is then evaporated and the crystals are refined. Kosher salt is made similarly, though the brine is raked continually during evaporation. Sea salt is (obviously) evaporated from sea water. Certain varieties contain chemical additives that prevent clumping, allowing for free flow from shaker to your steak; iodine may also be added to prevent hypothyroidism in consumers. All salts are nutritionally equivalent, regardless of what type you decide to use.
The Ice Cream Insider
It's 98 degrees in Brooklyn. The Weather Channel website says it "feels like" 107, but I say it "feels like" hell. If I could, I'd curl around the base of the toilet with my panting dog. But I can't, so I find more conventional, homo sapiens ways to cool off: straddling fans, sticking ice cubes in the waistband of my underwear, and visiting ice cream parlors.I love ice cream any day of the year, but this August, the creamy delight cools like central air. Never mind that my midsection has noticeably thickened since Sunday; we're having a heat wave, and I don't care if I'm too fat to can-can. I watch the kind scoopers stack sugar cones with tears in my eyes. Even my lactose intolerance can't stop me.
What is it about ice cream anyway? It's cited as a comfort food, right up there with mashed potatoes. Ice cream socials please kids and their parents equally, and a cute date will split a cone with you from the truck outside the restaurant while you ponder how to invite them over. Wherever there is ice cream, life seems happy and positive.
Chowder Wars
Up and coming chef Ben Sargent had just been given his very own half hour Food Network TV show--all about him and chowder, his specialty. With the sun barely up one morning in May, cameras followed him around the Fulton Fish Market. He stocked up on monkfish, live eels, and giant clams that looked like tubular aliens. The work was scrutinizing, but the last day on camera promised to be easy: a Brooklyn waterfront party where he cooked and his friends gnoshed. Like the cameras weren't even there.The day arrived. Sargent happily and somewhat drunkenly prepared his chowder. He looked up, and Bobby Flay stood in the audience--the fiery haired Iron Chef, no less. Suddenly, Flay was on him, shaking his hand and challenging him to a chowder cook-off, right then and there.
This wasn't Sargent's show at all. This was Food Network's Throwdown with Bobby Flay and he'd just been had.
The Sins of Red Velvet Cake
When my dear friend Yukari brought my red velvet cake the other afternoon, I thought I must have died and gone to some sort of sugar-baked heaven. I asked her where she discovered this bizarre, deep red, Satanic looking concoction. Apparently it's all over Brooklyn, and she'd found out about it while working in the Buttacup Lounge. For the unfamiliar, red velvet cake is party punch red and coated in thick white frosting. It's an equally decadent relative of chocolate cake. My own limited run-ins with it haven't yielded particularly chocolatey tasting encounters, but its richness and snowy cream cheese dressing could satisfy any chocolate lover's deepest desire.
A sort of red-velvet-legend attributes this cake to the Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City. A guest ordered a slice and liked it so much that she asked for the recipe. The hotel gave it up and billed her $100. Furious, she spread the recipe around in chain letters.
Spruce My Grits Up
Recently, I was struck with a rare craving for a bowl of grits, boiled on the stove the way they do in diners below the Mason-Dixon line, with some butter and salt and pepper. Bargain-savvy as I am, I decided to buy the economy-sized tub of Quaker quick grits, rather than the smaller, less cost-effective box. Proud of myself for figuring out such a great deal, I trotted home with grits in tow and cooked myself a bowl.
I had eaten a bowl of grits for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and breakfast again when I realized that I was stuck with the rest of this huge tub, and that there was no way I could stomach any more of the mushy grains. I forgot, I hate grits!
I'm the type of guy who can't throw stuff away so I needed a way to spruce these grits. And who better to consult than my raised-in-the-South assistant, Emily.
"Emily... fix my grits?" I pleaded.
Hot Dog: Symbol of Patriotism
July 4th. Surf and Stillwell Avenues. The crowd, thousands strong,
bristles in the scorching heat, and the announcer hams it up.
"This, the hot dog, the symbol of patriotism!" he bellows; the crowd cheers.
It's the 91st annual Nathan's Hot Dog Eating Contest, and I stand in
the throngs to bear witness. American Joey Chestnut keeps a one-to-two-dog
lead over five-time champion Takeru Kobayashi. The mood tenses, tight
as a sausage skin. The minutes tick by. Kobayashi evens the score.
Then he steps ahead. The clock winds to zero, and Kobayashi wins by a
dog and three quarters at 53.75.
The 12 minutes of the contest leave me breathless, and I marvel
at the notion of food as a patriotic symbol. Is a hot dog patriotic?
Do other foods share the honor?
Shucked Love
Summer heat (sans air conditioning) provides a great excuse to lie around the apartment and ponder. Yukari Rymar feels the sweat bead on her forehead and thinks deep thoughts: "cold showers are great," "why hate on freon?" and "I wish it was winter," she murmers The mercury rises, and deeper she slips, deeper into delirium....
"The plate steams. It's piled high with deep fried oyster croquettes. Or as the Japanese call it--kaki fry."
Arepa!
When the sun gets hot in NYC, I board the F train headed south. the ride is arduous and time-consuming, passing through all the Brooklyn avenues of the alphabet. I exit the final Stillwell Avenue station, and I smell it immediately. Sandy bottoms. Salt water. Freak shows.
A day at Coney Island.
Sure, Coney Island isn't a world class waterfront. Not anymore. There's broken glass in the sand. I never see any
surfers on the waves, and the housing projects immediately off the beach are some of the poorest in Brooklyn. But the city's first luxury hotel opened here in 1879. In 1884, the world's first roller coaster debuted. Its famous son, the Cyclone (b. 1927) still stands. And in 1923, Coney Island built its most legendary feature: the boardwalk. World class or not, this stretch of planked wood is so well known they wrote a song about it. And they have arepas. Arepas!
Chicken Fried Chicken?
What Fried How?
"I could really go for some chicken fried chicken right now."
"Huh?"
"You know! Chicken fried chicken."
I recently had this exchange exact with Hannah Pandolph, a Texan friend of mine. You can guess who said the incredulous "huh?" Even us Yankees love and indulge in fried chicken, but chicken fried chicken? How is a chicken fried any way other than in the manner of a chicken?
"There's also chicken friend steak," Hannah piped.
Japanese for "As You Like It, Fried"
Everyone likes sushi. Non-foodies of all races happily dig into spicy tuna, cooked eel cutlets on rice, and ubiquitous American variations like the But what do our cohorts across the Pacific pond think of this? According to my dear half-Japanese friend Yukari Rymar, it's terrific; she even likes the new sushi we've created here, said
"If you ask any American if they like Japanese food, they'll say they love sushi," says Yukari. "Which is great. I like sushi too. But sushi isn't what Japanese people are making everyday at home."
Secret of the South: Sweet Tea
I was talking to tea-dom's own Emily Thomas about how I loved the weird iced tea she'd made, and to explain the difference between it and mere Snapple. Emily did her impression of Dolly Parton as Truvy Jones in Steel Magnolias exclaiming, "Sweet tea! It's the house wine of the South!" I shrank back in horror, but then realizing her Dolly impression was over, made a gesture for her to please continue.
"When, I look back on any given memory of my childhood in Florence, South Carolina ," she began, "my mother always seems to appear out of nowhere to refill all of our glasses with sweet iced tea. We drank it more than we drank water.
"This did not seem strange to me until I moved to New York. I ordered sweet tea in a restaurant and the waitress gave me a funny look and said, 'We don't have sweet tea. We have tea and we have sugar.'









