Dogfish Head's Bitches Brew - Beer of the Week

by Joshua M. Bernstein, Posted Aug 23rd 2010 @ 3:00PM

Dogfish Head Bitches Brew Photo: Sony Music

Back in 1970, jazzman Miles Davis released the boundary-busting album Bitches Brew, which brought jazz-rock fusion to the mainstream. Now, forty years later, a special anniversary edition of Davis' masterpiece is being released with a special feature that beer fans can appreciate -- a real Bitches Brew made by Delaware's Dogfish Head, sold in a bottle featuring the album's trippy original artwork.

"There's a spirit of innovation, of creativity and individuality that's at the core of Miles' music," notes Adam Block, Legacy Recordings' senior vice president and manager. "Sam [Calagione] and Dogfish Head approach their art from the same place."

To pay homage to Davis' tunes, head brewer Calagione constructed what he dubbed a threaded beer -- that is, batches of separately fermented brew that are blended into a cohesive elixir. Of Bitches Brew's four threads, three constitute an imperial stout made with Muscovado sugar. The last thread is an African honey wine called Tej, which receives its bitterness from the gesho root (hops aren't native to Africa).

It's a fun experiment, sure, but how does the taste rate? Well, Bitches Brew pours an intense brown, with a small, tan head -- not much carbonation here. However, that doesn't detract from the appealing aroma of mocha, burnt caramel and earthy herbs. For a 9 percent ABV brew it's surprisingly light and drinkable, boasting sweet honeyed notes, super-bitter chocolate and a creamy mouthfeel to seal the deal.

Bitches Brew is, well, one bitching brew.

What's your favorite strange stout? Spill it in the comments.

Joshua M. Bernstein has written about brews, bars and booze for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, Imbibe Magazine and The New York Times. He is currently writing a beer book for Sterling Publishing, to be published in 2011.

Filed Under: Drinks
Tags: beer, Bitches Brew, Dogfish Head, Miles Davis, tej