Capricious - Cheese Course

by Max Shrem, Posted Jul 20th 2010 @ 3:00PM

When it comes to cheese, surprisingly, there is a universe of caramel and butterscotch flavors to explore. Often occurring in aged cheeses, such as French Mimolette and Dutch Roomano, the sensation of savoring the candy-like flavor happens thanks to the type of milk used to produce the cheese and the process of affinage. This is certainly the case with an aged piece of Capricious, a goat's milk cheese from Achadinha Cheese Company in Petaluma, Calif. Below its rustic brown rind is a yellowish white paste and a caramel-like treat.

The rich taste of Capricious can be attributed to high quality goat's milk. With 1400 dairy goats (including all five of the dairy goat breeds Alpine, Lamancha, Toggenburg, Nubians, Oberhasli and Saanen), owners Jim and Donna Pacheco, have their work cut out for them making sure the animals are well-fed. "The seasons (the condition of the pasture) and what the girls are eating affect the flavor in the milk more than anything," says Donna Pacheco. "We pasture year-round and feed them brewer's grain from three local breweries supplementing their diet with alfalfa hay." But, it's not just the feed that contributes to the taste of the milk.

The mere interaction between the goats can affect the grassiness of the milk. The flirtation between does (female goats) and bucks (male goats) can apparently make the milk more pungent. "When the goats are in season they are rubbing up against the bucks getting their musk into the milk and making it really goaty," says Pacheco. In fact, the farm paid tribute to the goats' behavior by naming the cheese Capricious. "If you have ever seen baby goats they are very capricious and funny," says Pacheco. Luckily, Capricious is not overly grassy, but sweet instead. "We are fortunate to be able to use really fresh milk so that musk doesn't develop," explains Pacheco.

Apart from the main ingredient – goat's milk – the high quality of Capricious can be attributed to the aging process. The mild Mediterranean climate and fresh, salty Pacific Ocean air (the farm is just about 20 miles from the coast) creates a natural stable environment that's ideal for an affinage lasting anywhere from six to 12 months. Indeed, a bite of Capricious actually gives the impression of tasting a mix of salty ocean air and sweet goat's milk.

Capricious is one of the few aged goat's milk cheeses that have this decidedly candy-like taste. Even those without a sweet tooth will appreciate the smooth savory earthiness without any of the gaminess commonly associated with goat cheeses.

Filed Under: Cheese Course
Tags: achadinha cheese company, capricious goat cheese, cheese, CheeseCourse, goat cheese, GoatCheese