Photo: Yards Brewing Company
These days, it seems like craft brewers are locked in an arms race to create the biggest, burliest beer. Imperial this, double that -- beers' alcohol percentages can easily crest double digits, meaning your first 22-ounce bottle is often the last of the eve. Now, this isn't a screed against extreme beers. I love them like I do bacon cheeseburgers and skillet-sizzled fried chicken: in moderation.
Oftentimes after work, I just want to relax with a easy drinker that's as tasty as it is low in alcohol -- a session beer, so-called because you can savor several of 'em in a drinking session. To find one, let's travel to Philadelphia's Yards Brewing. Since 1994, the brewery has crafted top-notch brews such as the malty Brawler, brawny Extra Special Ale and the Philadelphia Pale Ale, my favorite. It registers a relatively dainty 4.6 percent ABV -- not much stronger than a Coors Light. That's a very good thing.
"You wouldn't think it, but low-alcohol beers are our best-sellers," says Tom Kehoe, Yards' founder and brewmaster. "They have lots of flavor, without lots of alcohol."
One sip and I see why. Philadelphia Pale pours a pretty hazy gold, its bouquet a blend of sweet malt and citrus and pine. (That's the scent of Simcoe hops.) But don't expect a bitter tongue-twister. The ale slides down smooth, crisp and as light as a fistful of feathers.
Is this an extreme beer? No, it's even better: It's extremely drinkable.
Which low-alcohol brews push your buttons? Spill it in the comments.
Joshua M. Bernstein has written about brews, bars and booze for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, Imbibe Magazine and The New York Times.

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6-28-2010 @7:05PM Pyrofish said... I enjoy low alcohol beers, which is one reason I started brewing my own. It seems all of the brewers are going nuts ABV. I recently brewed an American pale ale that was crisp, lightly hopped, nice flavor, very drinkable, and at 4.3% a great session brew. Nice for a hot day! My next brews will be similarly low in ABV. I only wish I could get Philadelphia Pale Ale in Florida :-)
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6-29-2010 @1:38PM Tibbs said... It is nice to see lower ABV beers making the rounds. In the UK we all them 'session' beers - you can have a good saturday afternoon drinking session on them, say 2pm - 8pm at a pint and a bit hour and not be totally plastered. If I tried to do that with some of the stronger brews, 5% or more, you'd either be carting me home in a wheelbarrow, or off to the clink!
For those interested, Fuller's Chiswick Bitter (3.5% ABV) is a great example - you can drink it all day and not be at risk of having to spend the night on the sofa...
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