Organic Spirits - LeNell It All

Several years ago before it was so hip, bartenders like Alberta Straub took the fresh-juice cocktail movement a notch higher by incorporating organic fruit, vegetables and syrups into creative drinks. Organic spirits followed the return-to-the-earth movements. Now you can even find the world's first certified organic bar in the New York restaurant Gustorganics.

Buying organic spirits often means a premium price for the feel-goods like packaging made from renewable resources and grains and fruit sourced from small farms with low yields.

Some claim that organic spirits are healthier and better tasting without the taint of pesticides and herbicides. Science argues that alcohol evaporates at lower temperatures than chemical residues that might be contained in non-organic liquid, so these residues are left behind anyway. Handcrafted products may or may not taste better. Overindulge even in an earth-friendly spirit, and your head will still pound no matter how good you feel supporting sustainable agriculture.
The USDA National Organic Program (NOP) Congress passed the Organic Foods Production Act (OFPA) in 1990. The USDA regulations define what is allowable on an organic label based on ingredients and production process. The USDA organic seal signifies that the product is at least 95 percent organic. With the bureaucracy, costs and trendiness of certification, some rebels snub the organic sticker but still use organic ingredients and methods.

Vodka's the easiest spirit to get to market so it's no surprise this is the category with the most organic entries. Two of the firsts were Rain vodka, made from organic white corn by a Kentucky bourbon distillery, and Square One, the first certified organic 100 percent American rye vodka.

In 2000, Paul Davis of Maison Jomere created an organic portfolio including UK5 vodka, Juniper Green gin, Highland Harvest organic Scotch whisky and Papagayo rums. Not only boasting fair trade practices, his portfolio also boasts the approval of the British monarchy with a Royal Warrant by His Royal Highness Prince Charles.

Besides the Highland Harvest whisky, Scotland's Benromach and Springbank distilleries also have organic labels. The Springbank Da Mhile line includes single grain, single malt and blended whiskies. In the summer of 2010, British Columbia's Pemberton Distillery will produce a limited run of single malt whiskey that will age in oak casks for a minimum of five years. So far no one has marketed organic bourbon.

Vodka is pretty much the basis of gin so it makes perfect sense that vodka brands Tru and Organic Nation also produce a gin. Tru's gin includes the unusual vanilla and lavender in their blend. Philadelphia Distilling's Bluecoat gin boasts using organic botanicals, but is not certified. Colorado's Peak Spirits produces a gin with the unusual base of apple spirit and sources their ingredients locally.

Tequila saw its first certified organic product with the introduction of 4 Copas. Now the elegantly-designed bottles of Casa Noble as well as 3 Amigos can claim certified organic status, as well. Production doesn't get much more natural than Del Maguey mezcals which now have organic certification to prove it.

Organic brandies are harder to come by. In conjunction with Jack Rabbit Hill biodynamic farm, Peak Spirits offers some organic unaged eau de vies from Colorado fruit.

With the absence of organic aged brandies and American whiskey like bourbon or rye, the organic spirit market still has room for expansion.


Alabama-born LeNell Smothers defines herself first and foremost as a bartender, but she's been called many things -- most recently, the proprietress of Casa Cóctel with partner Demián Camacho Santa Ana. She's owned her own whiskey label, called Red Hook Rye, and has been recognized by her home state as an honorary Colonel. Other interests include gin, sin and men.