Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project's Jack D'Or - Beer of the Week

by Joshua M. Bernstein, Posted May 3rd 2010 @ 5:00PM

Photo: Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project

Come sunny days, I take my cues from southern-Belgium's field hands. During the summer's harvest season, they drink the farmers' saisons (French for season). These are tart, refreshing, low-alcohol beers that served as potable water. The goal is hydration, not inebriation. But a little buzz never hurts to help harvest the crops faster.

Like the field hands, I've learned to love saisons, like the snappy version from Brasserie Dupont, the style's Belgian king. But American takes are pretty terrific too, including Ommegang Hennepin, Lost Abbey Red Barn Ale and my current favorite, which hails from Pretty Things Beer & Ale Project.

This Massachusetts outfit is run by veteran brewer Dann Paquette, who, instead of opening his own bricks-and-mortar brewery, rents space at an area operation. Untethered to loan payments, he's able to explore whatever catches his fancy. One week, he'll do a hopped-up Belgian Tripel; the next, a vintage British mild that clocks nearly 10 percent ABV. Through all the experimentation, Paquette's flagship remains the unfiltered Jack D'Or saison.

Before serving, gently turn the bottle upside down to re-suspend the yeast ("You get more of the bitterness," Paquette explains), then slowly decant straw-gold Jack. The head's as creamy as meringue and boasts aromas by turns yeasty, peppery and citric. Jacks drinks are dry and prickly, lightly funky and lightly sweet, with a teensy bit of hop bitterness that takes the saison to a refreshing close. It's pretty close to perfection -- "I'm still tinkering with the recipe," Paquette says -- but as it stands, this is one Jack I'm pleased to know.

Which saisons do you savor? Spill it in the comments.

Joshua M. Bernstein has written about brews, bars and booze for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, ForbesTraveler.com and the New York Times.

Filed Under: Drinks
Tags: belgian beer, Jack DOr saison, Pretty Things Beer Ale Project, saisons, saisons beer