Debunking Beer Can Chicken: A Waste Of Good Beer, And Dangerous
Chopped All-Stars Has It All
Getty Images
But some scientists are betting on bluefin aquaculture to save the species and lessen pressure on wild stocks. The Australian company, CleanSeas, has been been working closely with scientists from Japan's Kinki University breeding programs with two different strains of tuna: Northern Pacific genetic strain for Kinki University, and CleanSeas' from the Southern Pacific genetic strain. Both programs are in their infancy, which means fish is currently trickling into U.S. restaurants.
Unlike tuna ranching, where juveniles are harvested from the wild and fattened in open pens, Kindai tuna are farm-raised from eggs hatched in a laboratory, rather than being taken from wild stocks -- a process so revolutionary that it ranked second on Time Magazine's 50 Best Inventions of 2009. Chef Chris Chung, at the newly opened AKA Bistro near Boston, embraces the farmed bluefin, and says it is very close to wild bluefin in flavor. It's the single most expensive item on his sashimi menu, and is listed as "Kindai Toro (special featured low mercury tuna belly)" for $23. Less mercury, he says, because the tuna is taken from the water at a younger age. Many of Chung's customers are very aware of Kindai.
"They ask me, 'When did you start getting this laboratory tuna?'" says Chung.
But some say the farming of bluefin is akin to farming tigers.
"You are farming a very inefficient top predator," says Pete Bridson, aquaculture research manager for Seafood Watch.
When you consider the economic realities, Kindai's claims of lessening pressure on wild stocks don't add up. Fishermen will still go after wild bluefin which can be sold for upwards of $100,000 a fish, Bridson says. And then there's the issue of the fish-in/fish-out ratio. While the exact numbers CleanSeas has reached remain unclear, overall, farming large predators like bluefin is considered unsustainable.
Martin Reed, founder of I Love Blue Sea, a sustainable fish wholesaler and retailer based in San Francisco, agrees that Kindai is not a good alternative.
"I absolutely would not carry it. Kindai does a good job of marketing. It's a step in the right direction from eating wild bluefin, which is the worst thing you could to, but it's not a very far step," he says.
Killed Soldier In London Attack Identified
Live from Microsoft's New Generation Xbox event!
Surgeons Remove Giant Hairball From Tiger
The List #0147: Escape a Car Underwater
Xbox Reveal liveblog on Joystiq
New Trayvon Martin Evidence Features Incriminating Photos, Texts From Teen
Xbox One architecture panel liveblog!
H&M's Plus-Size Model Jennie Runk Says She Chose To Gain Weight
Jodi Arias Jury DEADLOCKED
Visit the Maldive Islands Before It's Too Late
Helen Flanagan Launches PETA Campaign As Only She Knows How
Okla. Sheriff's Deputy Finds Dog Guarding Body Buried Under Destroyed Home
Reptiles Make Home in UK Man's Cable Box
Brave Woman Stood Down Armed London Attackers
Xbox One event roundup: Microsoft reveals its next-gen gaming console
What It's Like To Talk To A 2-Year-Old
'DWTS' Shakeup Ahead?
LOOK: Photoshop Mistake Is Seriously Cringeworthy
WATCH: Heckler Hijacks Obama Speech On Drones, Gitmo
Teenager's 'Awww'-Inspiring Drawing Wins Big At Google
PHOTO: Dog Guards Dead Victim's Body After Oklahoma Tornado Disaster
Pope Francis Says All Who Do Good Are Redeemed - Atheists Included
REVEALED: Disturbing Trend In Human Intelligence
Wolf Blitzer's Embarrassing Moment With Tornado Survivor
Man Reportedly Beheaded In Brutal Assault In London Neighborhood
Has Katie Holmes Moved On?
LOOK: Bank Vault Saves 22 Lives During Tornado
Help For Heroes Killing
NY Times Eviscerates Obama White House
PHOTOS: Christie Brinkley Gets Back Into A Swimsuit At 59 Years Old
The World's Most Powerful Women
4-18-2010 @11:34AM Andrea Angera said... This is a timely post for sure. It also resonates with the problems Toyota is having today with quality and safety issues- as I will try to explain.
I was formerly a distributor of Kindai tuna in the New York/New England area and thus quite familiar with the fish.
I originally supported the KIndai tuna for the reasons many others have- it appeared to be a good first step to reducing reliance on wild bluefin stocks and appeared to be a resource rich program to change how aquaculture is done for the better. Eventually though I discontinued representing the fish for several reasons. These reasons included:
1. After working with the Japanese for a while I realized that the Kindai tuna was not about sustainable seafood in the sense of preserving wild stocks and the environment, but sustainable as in proving a market for a replacement tuna when the wild is all gone in commercial quantities. Kinki (the university that produces Kindai tuna) and CleanSeas are working together (and separately) so that there will be a long term solution to a supply chain problem for high quality toro, not to make the planet a better place. Kindai is about technology and industry, not sustainability in the "green" sense. I do note that the CleanSeas folks have a much better commitment to the environment, and I believe if they ever succeed in their tuna program it will be much better managed than the Kinki program with protection of the environment being a real priority.
2. Kindai has a feed conversion ratio of 15-30:1 depending on feeds. The feeds are chosen to produce quality toro, not preserve wild fish feed stocks. This sort of feed conversion ratio is double that for beef and over 30 times that for other fish such as barramundi. Again, this is about being able to raise market grade tune, not sustainable aquaculture. Think more along the lines of cultural hubris trumping social values.
3. Kindai tuna is raised behind a veil of opaque science. Kinki is anything but transparent, even when it comes to food safety. We currently have tens of thousands of dollars in "khaki" Kindai tuna in our freezer awaiting legal disposition. "Khaki" Kindai is what we call Kindai tuna that actually turns a tanish, khaki color from the inside out. We were told this was nothing to worry about and unusual by the Kinki representative. Eventually we were told it was a know issue most likely related to feeds and water temperature- most likely microbial. So why was it still being sold? We were told it takes several days to develop so so long as you eat/sell the fish quickly it was not a problem. This just didn't sound right- and was the major reason we stopped selling the fish. Kinki has refused to answer even basic questions on its processes and systems- these are not folks that want you to know the facts- so how does one build trust or confidence in the product?
4. Kindai is raised in pens that are close to shore with little regard to water quality and the local environment. Farming fish in Japan is an industry like any other- picture a steel mill town from the 1950's under the ocean's surface and you get the idea. We were told that this situation would be remedied with economies of scale that would permit better siting. Unfortunately this has not happened, and I have never seen any effort to re-locate or manage the pen sites to lower environmental impacts.
5. Kinki is active in genetically modifying fish. These genetic engineering projects result in fish being sold on the market that have been genetically modified without disclosure of any kind. Kinki is also active in cloning fish. Again, technology for industry, not to ameliorate the issues of the planet and its people. Kinki as the Monsanto of fish? You bet!
6. Reduced environmental contaminates has been used as selling feature of the Kindai tuna, specifically lower mercury levels than wild bluefin tuna. When we asked Kinki for evidence of this we were sent a one paragraph summary of a study showing that if the captive tuna's diet is modified that mercury levels could be reduced. We asked if this "special" diet was actually being used- no response. We asked for mercury testing of the fish- too expensive we were told. How is a $75 test too expensive on a $5-10,000 fish? Heck, if I bough a used car for that price I spend a lot more to have a mechanic check it out. Again, a lack of transparency and willingness to be accountable.
I mentioned that Kindai and Toyota are similar in some way- and they are: by culture. Both are technologically advanced industrial enterprises that should be rightfully proud of their technological advances. They are proud of being Japanese and their accomplishments. They also have a certain amount of disdain for other world views. The cultures of these enterprises are much more homogeneous than most American enterprises, and is reflected in the commitment of their employees and the lack of transparency and accountability to outsiders.
Kindai tuna is like Toyota's recalled fleet of cars, except no one is recalling Kindai tuna. In fact few persons even know the nature of the production processes of the Kindai tuna, and thus no one even knows the problems and issues with eating and selling KIndai tuna.
Toyota is now facing and dealing with its own culture and how it has impacted a global market for its products. People have been killed and injured in Toyota vehicles with identifiable design and product issues. Toyota has been fined and is now under investigation around the world. We have owned Toyota's for over twenty years and have always been proud of owning them, including our new Prius. Yet, this does not diminish our disappointment in the recent quality scandal at Toyota. I sense change though in Toyota; and even if it is just a little bit, it will be healthy for the company and its customers.
Kinki and its Kindai tuna has not faced a reckoning as Toyota has- but I am sure it will. Kindai tuna is not sustainable by any standard and to support the fish with your fork would be wrong. The day Kinki opens it doors to an open dialogue on its bluefin program and honestly discloses the details of its environmental impacts will be first prerequisite step to re-evaluating the sustainability claims of KIndai tuna.
In the mean time, I think we should all enjoy the variety of foods other than bluefin tuna in this world that are so much better for you and the planet.
Peace,
Andrea Angera
GM, Litchfield Farms Organic & Natural
www.LitchfieldFarms.net
Reply
4-19-2010 @2:34PM verdegrrl said... Andrea, thanks for pointing out that the situation is more complex than presented on the surface (ha ha). There are usually a limited number of top chain predators, and humans are too numerous to occupy that territory and still eat like we have become accustomed. Your comments about transparency should be noted, since premium products usually go the extra distance to differentiate themselves from mass market products by sharing details of production with consumers.
Reply
5-18-2010 @5:01PM Br said... I would like to offer another point of view, albeit much shorter, than Mr. Angera's elegant prose.
Having worked with Kindai Bluefin for the past year and a half I am still a believer in its qualities and efforts by the Kinki University staff.
Just to briefly touch on a couple of issues, especially the "khaki color". The only time I have encountered the color described by Mr Angera is when the fish has been cut and then held for a number of days. The fish is very delicate and must be handled with great care. It is a highly perishable commodity, but in my experience, with the proper handling (consistent cold temperature,proper wrapping),we have avoided that issue.
Some points being made are quite a stretch (Monsanto of fish??) and not portrayed accurately. It seems more of a grudge posting than anything else. I have also been able to work with some of Kinki Universities other fish (Madai , Kanpachi, Hirame, Striped Jack). All fish have been impeccable quality and well received by many discerning chefs.
That's all I've really got at this point, just wanted to give a post from a satisfied customer.
Reply