LeNell It All - Batavia Arrack

In Jerry Thomas' 1862 cocktail guide, regarded as the first recipe guide in print for bartenders, a third of the recipes are for punches, many of them containing Batavia Arrack. Mr. Thomas writes, "Most of the Arrack imported into this country is distilled from rice and comes from Batavia. It is but little used in America, except to flavor punch -- the taste of it is very agreeable in this mixture." Historian David Wondrich claims that a bowl of punch made with it might go for today's dollar value of $200, likening it to flashy, expensive bottle service.

This punch ingredient is of no relation to the anise-flavored spirit known as arak (raki) or to the distilled palm wine called arrack. However, the similarity in nomenclature stems from the Arabic roots meaning "strong liquor."

With the Chinese influence of sugar cane ages ago in the city now called Jakarta, this mysterious ingredient known as Batavia Arrack eventually was made by fermenting sugar cane with a red rice starter and distilling the result. The flavor is a bit like a combination of peated Scotch and Martinique rhum agricole -- smoky and funky. The aromatic power of this spirit lifts the flavors of citrus fruits and chocolate in drinks and desserts. Working in conjunction with David Wondrich, importer Eric Seed of Haus Alpenz brought the flavors of Batavia Arrack back to the U.S. market. His brand is the only brand commercially available in the States and is called Batavia Arrack van Oosten, bottled at 100 proof. Finally, we can once again experience the exotic punches once imbibed by the elite.

Alabama-born LeNell Smothers defines herself first and foremost as a bartender, but she's been called many things -- most recently, the proprietress of Casa Cóctel with partner Demián Camacho Santa Ana. She's owned her own whiskey label, called Red Hook Rye, and has been recognized by her home state as an honorary Colonel. Other interests include gin, sin and men.