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For a nice Catholic girl like moi, Lent means several weeks of fish-focused Fridays. Sometimes that means grabbing a fish sandwich on the run. While there's no shortage of fast-food spots ready to fill that need, it's not always clear what kind of whitefish is sandwiched between those seeded buns. Frequently it's made from swimmers like pollock, hake or, as Wendy's latest Lenten promotion brags, North Pacific cod. But plenty of fish sandwiches, fish sticks and fish-'n-chips are made with a fish you probably haven't even heard of: hoki.
Like many issues surrounding fish and sustainability, things are often complicated. Environmental groups like the Blue Ocean Institute and Greenpeace give New Zealand hoki (also known as blue grenadier, whiptail and blue hake) a poor rating.
"We're in the process of updating our hoki report now," says Alan Duckworth, research scientist for the Blue Ocean Institute, "but the biggest concern with hoki is very low abundance compared to what it used to be."
Other complaints include the bottom trawling methods used to catch the fish, which can damage seafloor habitat, and high by-catch rates that include the snaring of threatened seabirds or mammals like fur seals and sea lions.
"Hoki is one of the most valuable fisheries in New Zealand," says Casson Trenor, Senior Markets Campaigner for Greenpeace U.S.A., which gives the fish a red listing. "They take over 100,000 tons of it a year. That's huge. It's one of the biggest fisheries in the world. But hoki is a mess."
Hoki was red-listed by Greenpeace New Zealand in 2008, which is the year they launched their Fish Guide. According to Trenor, one of Greenpeace's major objections is that hoki migrate from New Zealand to a deep-water trench when they move from feeding to spawning, and says fishermen catch them at this vulnerable time. But the Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), a well-regarded certification and ecolabeling program for sustainable seafood, has given the nod to the New Zealand fishery since 2001. Why the disparity between groups?
"We are each measuring fisheries to different standards," says Brad Ack, the director of special projects at the MSC's office of the CEO.
Conditions for reducing by-catch rates, plans for rebuilding stock levels and more were set as part of the MSC certification process. This past October, the New Zealand Ministry of Fisheries announced the Total Allowable Commercial Catch (TACC) of the country's two hoki fisheries had increased by more than 20 percent over the previous year. According to the New Zealand Seafood Industry Council, it was a validation that the stocks had been managed sustainably after a period of decline. Karli Thomas of Greenpeace New Zealand says the hoki catch is now less than half its 2001 level when it received MSC certification.
So is it a fish we should feel good about eating?
"Stocks are rebounding. There's a reduction in seabird deaths. New Zealand is meeting their conditions around by-catch, and it's an actively managed fishery with a focus on sustainability," says Ack.
Conversely, Trenor predicts a future based around aquaculture.
"At the end of the day, we're going to need to find a source of cheap whitefish protein that's not from a wild fishery, because the largest fisheries in the world, like hoki and pollock, are collapsing," says Trenor. "We're going to be looking to aquaculture, but we have to do it right. If we could create strong environmental standards to grow it, we could make it work.
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2-26-2010 @7:05AM matt said... the article lost me .What does it have to do with what kind of fish sandwich i'm eating ? It sounds like an environmental add for save the hoki. so what kind of fish is in my sandwich?
2-26-2010 @6:49AM Sunni said... Wendy's is the BEST by far!!!!!
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2-26-2010 @9:10AM J.R. said... I agree with Matt but LMAO to Fred and his dumb a*^ statement that has nothing to do with FISH
2-26-2010 @12:29PM Your MortgageGuy said... McDonalds is farm raised catfish... not sure why it is such a "mystery", just ask , they will tell you :) When you order one make sure you order it "fresh", it only t6akes 6 minutes to cook and they are awesome.... once they sit in that heat drawer for a little bit they could use it as a hockey puck.
2-26-2010 @9:21AM SuperSweet said... wendys is the best. but im not a big fish fan especially from fast food places. but wendys has the best chicken, mcdonalds with the best fries, and burker king sucks. haha
2-26-2010 @10:39AM chris said... find all the fish sand... geasy and taste less....stay away
2-26-2010 @11:31AM Misty said... I totally agree with you Matt the article made no sense.. and by the way I think McDonalds has the best fish sandwich:)
2-26-2010 @12:17PM Sue said... I would like a list of which place uses what fish then let me decide. Also - what does an internet job & dating service have to do with this conversation? Come on people . . . To the author, thank you for reminding me today is Friday... I've only been brave enough to try McDonald's Fillet of Fish. Do I go try Wendy's?
2-26-2010 @1:08PM withak said... Wendy's is the best. Just had a fish sandwhich from there and it was awesome! Maybe you should get a real job GREEN PEACE who ever you are and stop by Wendy's for a sandwhich.
2-26-2010 @6:50PM Al Schrader said... Matt- Your McFish sandwich probably contains Hoki. But, here is the good news. Except for the puffer & leopard fish, everything that comes out of the sea is edible, and nearly all of it is tasty.
Increased nitrates ( bio-wastes) and Global Warming have greatly increased the chlorophyl producing plankton which are the root food source for everything in the sea. It is possible to fish farm Hoki or almost anything, but the feed is a factor. And to reduce the cost of the feed you need to employe robotic tractors & organic matter improvers like legumes of which I am currently developing right now. Organic matter improvers are a substitute for expensive fertilizers. Certain legumes can capture nitrogen from the air & make fertilizer. These fertilizer plants are simply plowed right back into the soil. This is exciting because a lot of people are not going to starve when I get this to work...Chef Alfred Schrader
2-26-2010 @6:46AM Jerry said... I eat whatever I want.I never feel guilty about anything.NOBODY is going to tell me what I should or should not be eating.If it tastes good,I love it.I don't care where it comes from,or how it was produced.Hear that,Greenpeace,or whoever?Thank you.Have a wonderful day.
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2-26-2010 @7:04AM mick said... I'm no lefty, tree hugging, yogurt knitting, Greenpeace liberal, but if you want to keep eating nice tasty fish, there needs to be control, BEFORE it's all gone.
2-26-2010 @7:30AM robbery said... so I assume you will have no hard feelings when the space aliens come and put you on the dinner menu and say that they eat what they want to and no one is going to tell them what to eat. I am glad that there are still some folks out there like you who do consider the future of the planet and it's abi;ity to sustain itself for future generations. If you have children and eventually grandchildren I am sure they will appreciate your attitude.
2-28-2010 @10:14PM deb said... They are not TELLING you what you can eat or not, It's the "PROCEDURE" in which they are catching the fish. If they keep doing it this way then that's when you will not have the choice to choose whatever you want
2-26-2010 @8:35AM Chuck Casamasima said... I think the whole thing here is sustainability, leaving enough here for generations to come, there will always be the uncaring person that only will think of themselves, and the others that will go overboard, I fall right in the middle, manage our resources so everyone can enjoy them or not? Be well informed and make your own decision.
2-26-2010 @9:14AM poot said... You've obviously missed the point 100% in your zeal to appear to be such a bad ass. No one is telling you what to eat, as a matter of fact, no one could care less what the hell you eat... but the fact is, you should be TOLD what the hell it is you're eating to begin with. Get it now, or should we see if we can find someone to draw pictures for you?
2-26-2010 @9:21AM Chantz Cassidy said... Well, as they say, "You are what you eat", and if you want to eat pig, well, guess what....
2-26-2010 @9:23AM Jane said... robbery, shutup. nobody cares bout freakin aliens so let him say wht he wants to. he has his own life and own opinion on things.
2-26-2010 @10:10AM Andre said... I dont eat cows any more becauses thier farts contribute to green house gases,
2-26-2010 @11:23AM orlenda said... you really think you can back up that claim jerry? Go to youtube.com and look up animal slaughter-watch at least 5 videos and see how hungry you are for meat after that. MIND YOU-I DO eat meat, because i believe humans are meant to, but there are better ways to treat the animals we eat.
PS-eating only what is tasty-is a good way to get FAT!