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Photo: Courtesy of Lazy Magnolia
Compared to the lush Pacific Northwest and Midwest, the South is a veritable craft-brew desert. Nonetheless, in recent years numerous microbreweries have made inroads into the land of lagers, like Kiln, Mississippi's Lazy Magnolia Brewing Company. It's the state's first -- and still its best -- microbrewery.
Since its 2003 founding, husband-and-wife owners Mark and Leslie Henderson (she's the brewer) have focused on beers employing distinctly Southern ingredients. The silky Jefferson Stout is formulated with sweet potatoes, while the refreshing and lightly sweetened Southern Gold incorporates local honey.
"The South joined the craft-beer revolution pretty late, so many ingredients available here have never been tried in beers," Leslie explains -- notably that of the pecan, which has become Lazy Magnolia's finest muse -- once Leslie cleared a tricky hurdle.
"Pecans are very oily, and oil destroy the creamy, foamy head on a pint of beer," Leslie explains. "Beyond that, you have the task of capturing the delicate and highly volatile aroma of the pecans. Too much heat and you can lose that special aroma to evaporation or oxidation. Few things smell worse than rancid pecans."
No such problem with the Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale, Lazy's fabulous flagship. Employing whole roasted pecans, Leslie has struck a superb balance. The Southern Pecan pours dark amber and surprisingly clear, packing a toasty aroma that recalls maple syrup. The pecans announce themselves on the first sip, with a smooth, sweet nuttiness that's superflavorful but never overpowering.
And with a modest 4.5 percent ABV, you'd be nuts to drink just one.
Like nuts in your beer? Spill it in the comments.
Joshua M. Bernstein has written about brews, bars and booze for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, ForbesTraveler.com and the New York Times.
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2-22-2010 @6:08PM Ernest Miller said... So what is the trick to infusing nut flavors into beer? Most nuts are oily. I've been wanting to homebrew with nuts for a while ... what's the trick?
Reply
2-22-2010 @6:02PM Joshua M. Bernstein said... Hey, it's less of an infusion and more of incorporating it into the brewing process. Lazy Magnolia uses the pecans like grain.
2-23-2010 @1:36AM Eat Me Nashville! said... A good friend of mine, John DePriest, is a brewer with them. Have you tried the Sweet Potato Stout yet?
Reply
2-23-2010 @1:38AM Joshua M. Bernstein said... Yeah, I had a pint when I was down in New Orleans recently. Creamy and delicious. Loved it.
Reply
2-23-2010 @12:55PM Keith said... I'm in California and haven't seen this brewery on any liquor store shelves. Do they have distribution on this coast?
Reply
2-23-2010 @12:56PM Joshua M. Bernstein said... Not yet, but give them a few more years!
Reply
2-23-2010 @1:49PM marquisem said... Don't feel bad Keith, I'm a state over (AR) and we don't have a distributor for them either. Sounds good, though. Hope we get one soon.
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