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"The hamburger isn't just a sandwich; it is a social nexus," proclaims burger expert Josh Ozersky, casually armed with a shot of whiskey during his burger seminar conducted at New York City's RUB BBQ on Tuesday.
Heralded by the American public and arguably the most quintessentially American of dishes, the hamburger tends to be quite a polarizing issue. Ozersky, passionate eater and author of The Hamburger, provided his insight on what makes a good burger, throwing in pertinent background info on the topic.
Backed by a BA in literature and a PhD in American history, it is perhaps Ozersky's appetite and analytical spirit that spurred his interest in the burger's role in the history and culture of the good old U.S.A. Having trekked across the country devouring the carnal bite -- even overcoming a case of gout -- there's one mandate he insists upon: No matter what the fixings, the burger should support a "visceral delight."
More on the secrets to a perfect burger, after the jump.
Despite the twists and turns of regional varieties (we sampled the Wisconsin butter burger, which consists merely of a burger, bun and big pat of salted butter, and the Mississippi Slug Burger, traditionally extended with meal), one thing holds true: Fat is flavor. Seasonings are important, but the patty is only as good as the sum of its parts, or blend of its meat -- which should include brisket for smoothness, short rib for richness and sirloin to fill out the burger. (Though if you're taking the easy route with just one blend, Ozersky admits that chuck is the best).
Rather than allowing fancy buns to overshadow their contents, Ozersky insists that the bun needs structure but softness, favoring a mild Pepperidge Farm bun over a fresh-cooked brioche pastry.
Though he claims the burger, "like America, is infinitely adaptable and flexible," he puts his foot down on getting too creative with the contents of its patty. Nick Solares of A Hamburger Today chimed in, in agreement -- the two aficionados agree that you don't mess with the meat: It's gotta be steer -- no salmon, no veggie burger, no bison burger -- to qualify as a hamburger. In their purist minds, as Ozersky put it, "Only one thing is a hamburger: Ground beef in a white bun. Disk-like shape." (Which is also why he claims White Castle can take credit for inventing the burger in 1916, the first recorded time a bun was made to fit the burger.)
In terms of the actual grilling, he favors the smashing method, in which the meat is smashed on the grill, sealing and preserving its beefy taste. Though common perception correctly tells you that pressing the meat while cooking is intrinsically wrong, if done before the meat is cooked, it in fact seals in the flavor, allowing the burger to "confit in its own juices." In keeping with this logic, Ozersky encourages cooks to flip only once to preserve precious flavor.
Patty size is less relevant -- though he thinks it never need be bigger than 8 oz, and he errs on the "less is more" ethos with the last sample provided, his personal concoction, a "tribute to time machine burgers." At 2 ounces, they're easily devoured sliders, with a nod back to pre-Big Mac days, when, if you wanted more, you simply ate another burger. Seeking to achieve the "purest form," Ozersky's ideal burger piles a smashed patty high with chopped onions, a slice of American cheese (served below the burger, for more intense contact with the tastebuds, rather than the roof of the mouth), on a pillowy steamed bun. No earth-shattering flavors introduced to the palate, but the burger is a soft, somewhat indiscernible mass that melds together like butter in unified, beefy perfection.
In terms of toppings, though Ozersky acknowledges a world of possibilities, he snubs the usual cheese, tomato and lettuce for a pure burger, occasionally indulging in pickle slices, mustard or ketchup. After all, "If a hamburger can't be done with just a little salt and a bun, then [its cook should] get out of the business."
For more meaty musings and history on the ultimate ground round, check out Ozersky's paean, The Hamburger; his weekly blog for Time magazine, "Taste of America," or his oratory reveries as Mr. Cutlet for Heritage Radio. He is currently penning a book on the life of KFC's Colonel Sanders and, having passed on the idea of launching a line of "Greaseland" eateries, fantasizes about opening his own burger joint once he retires. We'll be loyal customers.
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2-12-2010 @8:15AM Steven Ruza said... Agree. Fattening but gotta love em! - Steven Ruza
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2-14-2010 @5:54PM cathy said... I too like them relatively simple but learned a little trick from a restaurant in Chicago that had excellent burgers. They put about 1/4 cup of V8 juice in 1 lb. of meat. I don't know why this tastes so good but for a well done burger it makes them juicy. http://newsy1.wordpress.com
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2-15-2010 @7:22AM gerry said... The hamburger is one third meat, one third bread, and one third fat. Of course we love them. The best hamburgers, ever, are DQ. If you don't live in the south, you may not know of Dairy Queen. You don't know what you are missing. I heard that the FDA, or some govt organization, is going to create a mandatory salt restriction on fast food, and take out, and I guess restaurants, which is a good idea, and will give me a little less guilt over all this cholesterol I love so much. I wish they would hurry up and do so, cause I can't find a single low, or no sodium aisle, in the supermarkets.
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2-15-2010 @11:47AM Don said... If you don't live in the south you might not be familiar with Dairy Queen?
I've been all over this country and there are DQs just about everywhere.
2-15-2010 @2:07PM Buster Brown said... Gerry, where do you shop? I am on a low to salt free diet and have no problem finding food when I shop that fits my needs. I also buy fresh and prepare from scratch, as they say. All you really have to do is learn to read the labels and understand what you read. Also, have traveled a great deal and have found Dairy Queen in most every state I was in, that is except Alaska. There are several here in Hawaii where i live at this time. In other words, Dairy Queen is not a southern business at all..
2-15-2010 @7:24AM GENE said... I WANT TO EAT THE PICTURE!!! DO YOU DELIVER?
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2-15-2010 @11:21AM Jill said... Have you stopped to think that any meat product consisting of pieces from numerous carcasses has a big risk of carrying bacteria, antibiotics and hormones from all of those animals? Do you really want your stomach to be a slaughterhouse smorgasbord? Gimme a veggieburger any day! Great taste and no one dies.
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2-15-2010 @11:33AM R said... HI BOBBI
2-16-2010 @10:08AM bob poz said... Are you kidding? I would rather die (and despite all your efforts, you will) than mess with that true American invention of gastronimic excelence, the hamberger! I am torn by the difference in the fast food type, and the pub burger. It is with great anticipation that I get a double Whopper with cheese occasionally, and then go to Steak and Shake again,occasionally, and partake in one of their triple deckers! O, what hamberger heaven!! You must be a carnivor, of course, to really understand what is the attraction here, but, what is not to be found to your liking? Of course, if you really want to get to the root of things, you go to the butcher and have him grind a big chuck roast for you, make your own patties, any size you deem sufficiant, and grill to personal perfection! I've got to stop now, my mouth is watering to much to go on!!
2-15-2010 @11:56AM David said... Yeah, and you might get run down by one of those "green" natural-gas-powered city buses on your way to your organic farmer's market to get your tofu and bean sprouts.
Why live life at all if you're going to make it so bland! Not to mention that we carnivorous BEEF eaters are keeping those cute, big-eyed cows from extinction! Are YOU gonna raise them just for the fun of it? There is a REASON for the food chain and it's NOT so all creatures on this planet can compete for the same veggies! (BTW: are you going to have cheese or a glass of milk with your veggie burger?)
As humans beings, we owe it to this earth to maintain a balance in what we eat. Sorry, sweetie, but that includes animals... ESPECIALLY domesticated ones!
2-15-2010 @1:01PM Maxie said... David: There's nothing wrong with a veggie burger; just don't compare it to a hamburger. I had the most phenomenal veggie burger in Las Vegas last year that kicked the butts of both their turkey and beef burgers. I guess Jill is being a downer by professing the nastiness of beef and she should really keep her annoying comments to herself, but it is important to remember that there is a high health cost for the meat consumption we have in this country and we should be a little bit more conscientious of the life that was taken for our burger and be thankful for the meat, and not so gluttonous and wasteful. It won't kill us either to give a vegetable a chance too. Give an eggplant the love and attention we give a side of ribs and you might be pleasantly surprised. By the way, when I do eat burgers, I always take them medium rare with minimal toppings. And I am thankful for every bite.
2-15-2010 @3:07PM BILL said... SORRY BUT GOTTA TELL YOU PEOPLE HAVE BECOME SICK FROM SAM & ELLA POISONING THEM FROM VEGGIES......... ALSO LIKE THE PERSON SAID VEGGIE BURGERS HAVE THEIR OWN PLACE BUT NOT A MATCH FOR A REAL HAMBURGER BUT STILL GREAT TO EAT. JUST AS SALT SUBSTITUTES DO NOT TASTE LIKE SALT BUT STILL HAVE GREAT FLAVOR.
2-15-2010 @8:52PM Silly Girl said... UMMM Jill are you telling me that SOMEONE died to make the burgers that I am cooking for dinner tonight? Whom is that, please tell me so I can toast them and their death.
2-15-2010 @1:54PM John Kingtamer said... The most important part of any hambuger is the mix of breadcrumbs into the meat before cooking. My mom always used as much breadcrumbs as meat. I am pretty sure she also mixed in a good portion of oregano and other spices.
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2-15-2010 @11:55AM Walt said... about 5 oz. well marbled ground chuck. Slightly smashed to release some of the fat to brown the bun in. Crispy on the outside moist and red on the inside. A dash of salt and a generous dusting of shaker black pepper. And a good spicy mustard not too -Guldens! And on occassions carmelized onions--ah tis paradise
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2-15-2010 @11:52AM h said... It's carrot season...I am hunting carrots!
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2-15-2010 @12:16PM cowboy541 said... I agree with you Elmo. By Jill’s last comment I am not sure where she got the idea that the meat in a hamburger (beef, pork, chicken, turkey or buffalo) is from human origin. However in some countries I believe that dog and monkey is used for their “burger”.
I think I will try a combination of the V8 and Onion soup mix, I don’t think that I will not use as much of the V8 juice as they noted above.
P.S. My cows will not even eat the old vegetables out of the garden.
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2-15-2010 @12:24PM cowboy541 said... Tina what do you call chopping off the head of a lettuce or pulling a carrot out of the ground?
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2-15-2010 @1:12PM TJ said... I can't wait till summer when I can behead my lettuce and put it on top of my half pound hamburger pattie. mmmm good.
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2-15-2010 @1:26PM B said... What about "the conspiracy"?... I'm referring to the conspiracy of that photo and article being posted online right at Lunchtime.... MMMmmmm.... juiceeee.... burrrgerrrr... It's now all I can think about, and I am certain that this article will directly result in millions of dollars being spent at our nation's burger joints today, so just who do you think is behind it??? They know. They ALways know...
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