Wine of the Week: Merlot

by Kristine Hansen, Posted Jan 1st 2010 @ 3:00PM

Merlot is a red-wine grape grown in many vino regions, including France (where it's the most widely planted grape for Bordeaux wine, accounting for two-thirds of the world's total plantings), the U.S. (mostly California but also Washington and Long Island), Italy and many New World regions (including Australia and New Zealand).

After the film Sideways (2004), Merlot morphed into a bad, sad reputation, its full-body profile snubbed in favor of other reds, including Pinot Noir. Yet it wasn't as terrible as what had happened in France years earlier: a severe frost in 1956, vintages left to rot during the '60s and Bordeaux's banning of Merlot vines between 1970 and 1975 nearly destroyed Merlot. In the '90s there was an upswing and Merlot soared back into popularity with Americans – only to be rattled once again when Sideways debuted. Now, however, Merlot is making a comeback, with many excellent bottles being released.

Plum notes, soft tannins and a velvety profile are Merlot's top characteristics. It's a great transition wine for white-wine lovers, and approachable for newbie drinkers who want to shy away from tannins and a drier profile. Seasoned sippers love Merlot's versatility in pairing with food. Merlot's full, fruity body can stand up to earthy dishes just as Pinot Noir can, so go ahead and sauté some mushrooms or greens. May we suggest Swiss chard?. Fish will work well too, particularly scallops or salmon. Cheese-pairing options are plentiful – except for strong (blue-veined) cheeses, which will drastically change the wine's profile.

Here are three of my favorites, with apologies to "Miles" (the Sideways character who wants nothing to do with Merlot and everything to do with Pinot Noir).

Candor Winery Merlot Central Coast Lot 2, Paso Robles, California ($16): The nose is both leathery and floral, easing into a fruit-forward body (with notes of plum and cooked raspberries) and a slight peppery finish.

2006 Luna Vineyards Merlot Napa Valley, California ($30): Of the three Merlots here, this is the heaviest in body. This is a solid, juicy wine – I might even call it luscious – with prominent blackberry notes that are tinged with forest floor. There's a delightful undercurrent of raspberries too.

2005 Andeluna Reserve Merlot Tupungato, Mendoza, Argentina ($20): This one I believe Miles would like. Delicate overall – especially when compared to the above two Merlots – smoky notes emerge mid-palate and there is a long finish. Spicy, peppery wood notes contribute to the wine's robust personality, yet it doesn't overpower.

Filed Under: Trends, Spirits
Tags: bordeaux, merlot, Sideways, wine

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

1-03-2010 @10:22PM Homer Worf said... Well, fine you pick Merlot...I always wondered how the flavor does compare to

other red vines, the Burgundie, Rose, Chianti,,.. etc.
Reply