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Pork, that most Puerto Rican of meats, is paramount to Nochebuena. The most ideal cut -- a roasted pork shoulder or pernil -- is traditionally cooked on a spit over charcoal in the backyard. At least one family member gets up around 4 a.m. to prepare the charcoal and sit while turning the spit so the pork cooks evenly. It's critical to taste as you go, especially when some parts of the pig cook faster than others.
"You have to check the doneness of the pork by pulling off the ears and tail. It's some of the best meat," explained this blogger's father -- and native Puerto Rican -- Jose Ralat Torres. As an alternative to this all-day process, he noted, "Now, some bakeries will roast the pork for you and it would only take half the time. It almost tastes the same" -- but loses the endearing tradition.
Even with all the hard work, pernil is nothing without its customary accompaniment, arroz con gandules. This savory achiote-colored rice with green pigeon peas (Santos de Curran's recipe below) goes perfectly with the slow-roasted meat.
Joining these foods are a litany of other tasty dishes. "The family menu has always included without exception pasteles, potato salad, tembleque and arroz con dulce," explained Chef Wilo Benet, owner of three restaurants in San Juan, Puerto Rico.
Like most Latin American holidays, Nochebuena is religious at its core. After post-dinner Midnight Mass (attendance required), family and friends return to the house for music and dancing and more eating. Most parties provide live music with folk instruments guiro, maracas, cuatro, bongos and congas. "We go back to the house, the music and dancing begins. The party continues sometimes until 6 or 7 a.m.," described Carmen Santos de Curran, executive chef and food editor of El Boricua, the monthly online magazine of all things Puerto Rican.
A hearty meal necessitates hearty, high-octane beverages, like coquito (Santos de Curran' recipe below), Puerto Rican eggnog and ponche party punch. "If you're lucky," said Ralat Torres, "you can get your hands on some pitorro, Puerto Rican moonshine." Illegal pitorro is distilled from sugar cane and can replace rum in coquito.
Many Puerto Ricans look forward to this feast all year and consider it Santa's gift to La Isla del Encanto.
Arroz con Gandules
1/2 cup vegetable oil
2 1/2 tablespoon Sofrito
2 envelopes Sazón seasoning with achiote
1 15-ounce can of gandules
2 tablespoons Manzanilla olives
1 1/2 teaspoon capers
1 envelope onion soup mix
1 8-ounce can tomato sauce
1 pound raw medium or long-grain rice
16 ounces water
Place the vegetable oil, Sofrito, Sazón with achiote, gandules, olives, capers, onion soup and tomato sauce in a big pot. Thoroughly wash rice and add to the other ingredients. Pour water over the ingredients and stir well. (Water should be about 1 inch above the ingredients.) Boil on medium-high until all the water is absorbed. Reduce heat to low and cover the pot with aluminum foil and a lid. Cook for 35-40 minutes, depending on your stove.
Coquito
2-3 cinnamon sticks
2 cups water
12 ounce evaporated milk
14 ounce condensed milk
4 egg yolks
15-ounce can cream of coconut
4 cups white rum
Boil cinnamon sticks in the 2 cups of water. When the water turns yellow, remove sticks. Add the evaporated milk, condensed milk and egg yolks; cook on low heat. Stir frequently to avoid sticking. After it has boiled for a few minutes, stir in the cream of coconut and then the rum. Stir very well and remove from stove. Chill and enjoy.
Do you celebrate Nochebuena? Tell us about your party in the comments below.
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12-22-2009 @11:57AM el buitre said... donde estara mi gente?..el primer articulo que veo de la nochebuena hace anos.(perdonen que este teclado no tiene tilde para nuestra 'N'.)medio ciglo en este contrallao pedregel de hielo y me olvide de los reyes y noche buena.LOS JALELUYAS ME DICEN QUE ESO NO ESTA EN LA BIBLIA PERO YO SIGO PALANTE.
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12-22-2009 @2:01PM el buitre said... i forgot my people's traditions after half a cetury in this siberian ice cube factory.forgot we have no santa claus.the three weisenheimers bring gifts to the kids on january 6th.ain't no reideer,they ride camels.
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12-23-2009 @7:55PM rosa123 said... Dont know if you are trying to be unneccesarily beligerent, or just plain old insulting,,, be happy that our people "mi gente" have a culture and tradition...get on board and lets keep the tradtion going...por favor....p.s Every generation that passes, we get blended, diluted, and before you know it...its gone...the culture, the tradition, the religion, all that makes us different and unique, all that makes us boricuas !
12-24-2009 @7:30AM el buitre said... nunca falta un lambe ojo.it's okay to be ashamed of your tribe.sigue alla como tia gemima.
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12-24-2009 @7:30AM Latin Flavors said... Yes, that is a good dish from Puerto Rico!
-http://latinoflavors.blogspot.com/
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12-24-2009 @3:35PM JRalat said... Thank you for all the comments.
One thing Boricuas excel at is keeping our traditions, however "diluted" in the diaspora. One aspect of our culture is always kept alive, be it our food, religion, language, or holidays. We are a proud people who have resisted much. I for one, refuse to allow my son ignorance of his heritage. My wife and I are teaching him Spanish alongside English and keeping holiday events like Nochebuena and Three Kings Day alive.
Feliz Navidad y uepa!
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12-24-2009 @3:35PM lamalanga said... UEPA! UEPA! UEPA! BUSQUE"LOS REYES NO LLEGARON" DE FELIPE RODRIGUEZ EN EL SITIO "LATINOSOMOS" PA QUE LLOREN
1-15-2010 @7:20AM Steven Ruza said... Looks great. Im going to try this one out. - Steven Ruza
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