Fall means shorter days and cooler nights. But you don't have to dig out the bold, heavy reds. Beaujolais is a wonderful transition wine. From the Beaujolais region just south of Burgundy, France, only Gamay grapes can be used. Drinking Beaujolais is like slipping into a light linen jacket, whereas Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandels are like wrapping yourself in a wool trenchcoat (in other words, they're better to save for when the temperature drops).

Beaujolais' lighter body, few tannins, high acidity and intense fruit notes make this a great stand-alone wine or one to pair with a hard cheese (such as Raclette) or a soft fromage (feta is a great choice). And with most bottles priced under $15, this is a great excuse to host a wine-tasting party where you and your friends sip through a flight.

Beaujolais Nouveau Day (the third Thursday of November) is when the first bottles are released. Meant to be consumed while young, this wine's grapes are harvested between late August and early September, fermented for only a few days, then whisked into bottles in time for the release. Back in the 19th century, bottles of Beaujolais Nouveau would sail down the Saone River to Lyon not long after harvest. But it was only 24 years ago that the Institut National de l'Origine created the uniform release date.
Check with your local wine shop or wine bar for a Beaujolais Nouveau Day tasting on Nov. 19. I've even heard of some wine shops offering pajama parties and uncorking the Beaujolais at one minute past midnight. For kicks, I hopped online and found out just where you can wear your bedtime get-ups and drink wine: La Baguette Bistro in Oklahoma City and Seattle Cellars in Seattle are two options. If that's not your style, then grab your little black dress or fanciest tie and head to Paris Las Vegas, which has an annual four-day celebration.

Georges DuBoeuf has already declared the 2009 Beaujolais to be the best within the last 50 years, due in part to a hot summer. (That's good to know because wine critics -- including myself -- haven't been that enthused by the last few years' vintages, a huge departure from the early part of this century.) I can't wait to taste the releases. And don't even think about slipping these onto your wine rack. Remember, they are meant to be sipped young! (Although if you insist on aging, no more than six months, OK?)

In the meantime, while you're tapping your fingers impatiently for this year's Beaujolais Nouveau releases, here are some fabulous Beaujolais to sip. With its fun blue letters on the label, 2008 Domaine du Vissoux Pierre-Marie Chermette Fleurie Poncié ($20) continues to be playful with a nice crispness, bold strawberry notes and a nose of crushed grapes. The 2007 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly (also $20) has strawberry and blueberry notes and a peppery finish. Like all Beaujolais, serve the wine slightly chilled.