Alabama-born LeNell Smothers defines herself first and foremost as a bartender, but she's been called many things -- most recently, the proprietress of LeNell's liquor store. She's owned her own whiskey label, called Red Hook Rye, and has been recognized by her home state as an honorary Colonel. Other interests include gin, sin and men.

My first truckload of household goods from the States arrived in Mexico this past week. As soon as the refrigerator powered on, we headed to the market for groceries. First stop was a stand labeled "Semillas," meaning "seeds," where we found nuts, spices and dried hibiscus known as "jamaica" heaped tall in metal tubs and baskets. Tired of the boring jamaica we've found in restaurants -- over diluted and often made with jamaica concentrate -- Demian and I were excited to make a big batch of deep ruby red, tart jamaica as one of the first things to put into Casa Cóctel's refrigerator.

Alberta Straub, aka Miss Flighty, is a bartender committed to organic, natural ingredients in her drink making. She introduced me to making cocktails with jamaica. Miss Flighty loves using it as a replacement for cranberry juice and has been quite the evangelist for jamaica's refreshing, inexpensive and kidney-cleansing benefits. Jamaica is one of Alberta's bar essentials and she proved to me how delicious and versatile it is. Now it's a bar essential for me, too.

First let's clear up how you say it: Jamaica is pronounced something like "huh-MY-kuh." Second, let's clarify that it's not dried hibiscus flower petals, but the calyces -- the part of the plant that grows around the bud. You can usually find it in health food shops or ethnic grocery stores specializing in Mexican, West African, Jamaican, Middle Eastern or Latin American foods.

Making jamaica is not rocket science, so you don't have to feel bound to any specific recipe. Start with this recipe and play around, depending on how tart or sweet your personal preferences are. Then experiment by adding in various spices when you feel up for it. Jamaica is great with many types of liquor including rum, vodka, bourbon, rye or gin.

Boil a gallon of water and add two large handfuls (at least 2 cups) of dried jamaica. For extra flavor add in some fresh, minced ginger and perhaps a few cloves, and/or nutmeg. Let steep for several hours or until ruby red in color. When cool, strain and add in sweetener to taste. I prefer to make a rich simple syrup with agave nectar using a 1:1 ratio and sweeten the mixture to take just a little of the tart edge off the jamaica.

You may also sweeten with granulated sugar, honey or whatever you like. In the winter time, I experiment with more spices and heavier spirits and even serve the drink warmed. In the summer, it makes a refreshing drink mixed in tall pitchers or in punches with vodka, gin, a lighter bourbon or white rum. Don't be afraid to play!