When it comes to cheesemaking, the culinary exchange between Europe and America is especially noticeable. French cheeses, including Pouligny Saint Pierre and Sainte-Maure de Tourain, have influenced the style and taste of American cheeses, like Mont Vivant and Pipe Dreams ashed log. In addition to France, American cheesemakers, such as Charuth Loth from Farmstead First, look to other countries, like Holland and Italy. And, those looking for the American take on Welsh cheeses should look no further than Landaff, a raw cow's milk cheese inspired by Caerphilly, a cheese from Wales.

The reason for the Welsh influence is far from arbitrary. "The soils and rolling hills in Landaff, N.H., are similar to the terrain in the Cardiff area of Wales," says Deb Erb co-owner with husband Doug of Landaff Creamery. As with other cheeses, like Rogue River Blue, the taste of Landaff is affected by the soil on which the cows graze. Also, it just so happens that Landaff comes from Landaff, N.H. (hence, its name), which was originally named after the Bishop of Landaff, Wales, cleric to England's King George III. In short, this transatlantic influence can be attributed to history and similarities in soil.

Like Caerphilly, Landaff has a fresh taste and a firm, moist texture. Their similarities in taste and texture are not merely due to two comparable climates. Deb and Doug intentionally make their cheese in the style of Caerphilly. Recognizing the obvious agricultural relationship between Wales and N.H., Doug went to Somerset, England, where he trained under Dr. Jemima Cordle and Chris Duckett, third-generation Welsh Caerphilly cheesemakers from Westcombe Dairy. Following this training, they produced their first batch of cheeses in Jan. 2009.

"We were struggling to decide if we could do well, each of the main parts to making a quality cheese: making the milk, making the cheese, aging the cheese and marketing the cheese," says Deb. After a visit to Jasper Hill Farm, Deb and Doug decided to focus on the first two parts and to have Mateo and Andy Kehler, from Jasper Hill Farm, take charge of the aging. "We send our cheese to The Cellars every Monday and they age the cheese there," explains Deb. "The Kehler brothers have a vision of keeping the landscape working through viable dairy farms."

While Vermont is a more established dairy state when compared to N.H., there are many artisanal cheesemakers, like the Erbs, starting up in N.H. And, in the past year, they helped create the N.H. Cheese Guild. There are currently 10 farmstead cheese makers in the granite state. Doug and Deb's cheese can be purchased online from their website or at several New England cheese shops, like Farmstead in Providence, R.I.