by Kristine Hansen

Generally, crisp and celebratory, wines like cava, brut, Champagne and American sparkling wines probably won't turn any heads if you bring them to an occasion that calls for bubbles. But Crémant, a French sparkling wine, can make a fashionable entrance. Although still a nouveau import to many areas of the U.S. it's tres affordable. Most Crémants are priced under $20 a bottle.

Crémant is produced in seven regions throughout France: Bordeaux, Alsace, Burgundy, Loire, Die, Jura and Limoux. Strict laws from the French government stipulate that the grapes must be harvested by hand and the bottles aged for at least a year. There are also rules for the composition of grapes. And they differ by region. In Burgundy, for instance, at least 30 percent of the wine must be Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc or Pinot Gris.

While traveling through the Burgundy region this summer, in between spreading cheeses on rustic baguettes and reveling in the deliciousness of mustards from this region, we sipped some very good bottles of Crémant de Bourgogne. Fortunately you can buy both of our top picks in the States.

Vitteaut-Alberti's Brut Blanc de Blancs ($22) has wonderful grapefruit and melon notes, and fabulous creamy froth. The 2006 Clotilde Davenne Extra Brut Crémant de Bourgogne ($22), which is two-thirds Pinot Noir and one-third Chardonnay, is from Les Temps Perdu, a female-owned winery in the Chablis region. The citrus nose on this delightfully dry wine draws you in, followed by notes of white fruits and a tangy finish.

The youthful freshness of Crémant makes it an extremely versatile wine. Pour your dinner guests each a glass while you do all that last-minute hustling in the kitchen. Sushi, or even salty snacks and chips, pair well as an appetizer, but Crémant is also wonderful with fish, chicken and creamy sauces for the main course.

Also consider stocking your cellar with a couple of bottles of Crémant. You never know when you might get the call that a friend is engaged or got a job offer, right?