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Taiwan Beer - Beer of the Week



Taiwan Beer

Photo: Joshua M. Bernstein.

Joshua M. Bernstein has written about brews, bars and booze for New York Magazine, Time Out New York, ForbesTraveler.com and The New York Times.

The average Asian beer is feather-light and forgettable, the equivalent of drinking seltzer doctored with food coloring and a splash of alcohol -- look no further than brews like Vietnam's 33 Export and Singapore's Tiger Beer. But every blue moon, a cookie-cutter lager can shake our belief in mass-produced suds. To wit, Taiwan Beer, brewed by the government-owned and totally totalitarian-sounding Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corporation.

"The beer is purer and more flavorful than many other Asian beers," says Anna Zhang, operations manager for art-filled Shanghai restaurant TMSK, which sells loads of Taiwan Beer.

We can hear microbrew lovers loudly tsk-ing their disapproval. However, hear us out: While Taiwan Beer may pale in comparison to, say, Full Sail's full-bodied Session Lager, it more than holds its own owing to a recipe incorporating locally grown Ponlai rice, which provides a semi-sweet component.

But this is hardly liquid candy: Honey-colored Taiwan Beer pours a fluffy, if fast-dissipating head, with a crisp hop aroma that carries a hint of lemon. The snappy, assertive flavor is equally full and rewarding, with a dry, creamy maltiness typically missing from most rice brews. Sure, Taiwan Beer may lack the complexity of the average microbrew, but that's judging apples against oranges. Taiwan is simply a tasty thirst-quencher.

What's so wrong about being refreshing?

Think Asian beers are awful? Amazing? Spill your thoughts in the comments.

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