Photo: Joshua M. Bernstein.
The average Asian beer is feather-light and forgettable, the equivalent of drinking seltzer doctored with food coloring and a splash of alcohol -- look no further than brews like Vietnam's 33 Export and Singapore's Tiger Beer. But every blue moon, a cookie-cutter lager can shake our belief in mass-produced suds. To wit, Taiwan Beer, brewed by the government-owned and totally totalitarian-sounding Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor Corporation.
"The beer is purer and more flavorful than many other Asian beers," says Anna Zhang, operations manager for art-filled Shanghai restaurant TMSK, which sells loads of Taiwan Beer.
We can hear microbrew lovers loudly tsk-ing their disapproval. However, hear us out: While Taiwan Beer may pale in comparison to, say, Full Sail's full-bodied Session Lager, it more than holds its own owing to a recipe incorporating locally grown Ponlai rice, which provides a semi-sweet component.
But this is hardly liquid candy: Honey-colored Taiwan Beer pours a fluffy, if fast-dissipating head, with a crisp hop aroma that carries a hint of lemon. The snappy, assertive flavor is equally full and rewarding, with a dry, creamy maltiness typically missing from most rice brews. Sure, Taiwan Beer may lack the complexity of the average microbrew, but that's judging apples against oranges. Taiwan is simply a tasty thirst-quencher.
What's so wrong about being refreshing?
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