Jeffrey Steingarten.
Photo: Food Network.
Week after week, Steingarten regards the Iron Chef hopefuls in the same way a crusty professor might deal with a snot-nosed student who happened to stop by his office outside of office hours. The man may certainly have his cheerful side, but by now we've gotten the feeling that every week, the "TNIC" editors decide to save up and splice together all of his best "You got me out of bed for this?" looks, and parse them out over the course of the last 15 minutes of each show.
When in doubt, they zoom in on one of his particularly befuddled stares -- no doubt there are plenty to choose from -- and try to give it some sort of significance, as if the man can't believe what he's hearing. You imagine that a Steingarten comment like "my flan is a little curdled" was probably delivered politely, gingerly to chef Jose Garces -- but when the tribal drums of failure are added to the soundtrack, man, does it take on a sting.
This week's challenge involved the "adaptability" of tamarind, and was full of choice Steingarten moments, whether he was tipping back a thick chocolate-tamarind shot, puzzling at the taste of a sake-tamarind cocktail or awkwardly scarfing down a shrimp-tamarind taco. Though we delight in seeing him get the goat of fellow panel member Donatella Arpaia -- who lets no Steingarten comment, no matter how innocuous, go unheeded -- there was little conflict Sunday night, save for a trumped-up debate over some hominy that delighted Arpaia and made Steingarten look like he was chewing his cud.
The true Steingarten delight was reserved for brash, competitive Jehangir Mehta, who finally managed to pull off a savory-sweet ice cream without the machinery backfiring on him. Meanwhile, the night's reject, Dominque Crenn, was not going down without a fight. "I disagree," she snapped when sent away from the judge's table, becoming the first true "TNIC" martyr this season. Note that she was careful, however, not to say it to Steingarten's face.

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10-26-2009 @11:24AM Gary said... I've heard from someone that's worked with him on other TV shows that he is a real prick. He never has anything good to say either TNIC or on Iron Chef America
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1-11-2010 @12:42AM bk said... the most self inflated, pretentious person on tv
1-11-2010 @12:40AM bk said... The idiot wishes he were some sort of Gore Vidal of the culinary world...but he's just a meam spirited fag, pure and simple. I like gays, in general, but this quasi ascerbic queen is just an infection waiting to happen...
10-26-2009 @12:03PM Adam S said... I'm not getting a confirmation email. I used to be able to post without that, since I've confirmed before. Hmmph.
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10-26-2009 @12:04PM Adam S said... Well, what the heck!? I posted my last comment three times to no avail. But this comment posted right away.
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10-26-2009 @4:10PM koji attwood said... He eats like a pig, to boot.
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10-26-2009 @5:26PM Michael Cohen said... I'll say that although he obviously does seem particularly grumpy in general, he will compliment chefs when they do do something right. And if you watch him often, he actually does compliment chefs more than you think, but he's just got that sour face on all the time (even if he is telling them they made something good).
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10-26-2009 @10:04PM Barb said... Comparisons to Jeffrey as "simon" are irrelevant when it's apparent that he is NOT paying attention to what the Next Iron Chef's are doing in the kitchen. I can't understand how someone as discrimnating as Jeffrey could've missed Chef Mehta's obvious "faux pas" with his latest ice cream creation. Chef Mehta used is FINGER to taste the mixture and then dipped the same finger in a second time.....ON CAMERA!
Come on Jeffrey....if you are asking to be the authority on "iron chef", then you certainly should pay attention to prep.....I, for one, do not want to be exposed to germs and bacteria from a careless iron chef in waiting. Chef Mehta needs a lesson is public health and kitchen cleanliness and Jeffrey, Please pay Attention! We expect the best from you......
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10-26-2009 @11:56PM NoVANicole said... On the rare occasion when Steingarten likes something, he does pile on the praise. I'd say he has a much more valid skillset than that "Simon" guy who's skills are limited to, what, being snarky?
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10-27-2009 @11:52AM JustaTech said... Barb, I don't think the judges get to see any of the prep, so you can't really fault Jeffery for not commenting on something he didn't see. According to Alton Brown at a talk he gave, he is forever calling out chefs on ICA about double dipping (or putting their whole hand in their mouth, though i hope that was an exaggeration.)
Really, they should hide that darn ice cream machine. It can only end in tears and fish sorbet.
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10-28-2009 @7:34PM Boke1 said... Jeffrey, like most people on FN, talks with food in his mouth which is gross. I know they don't have all the time in the world but still.... He also always manages to get grease on his rubbery-looking bottom lip and talks while it's still on there. All that aside, I like the fact that he doesn't kiss the Iron Chefs' butts and will call then out if they make a crappy dish.
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11-01-2009 @6:52PM patti shock said... I can't stand JS (or Toby on Top Chef). They think they are funny but they are not. There is only one Andy Rooney. Comparisons to Simon Cowell are like comparing apples to oranges. Cowell is knowledgable about music - and his comments are right on. If Cowell left AI, the show would lose most of its viewers - not so with JS or TY. JS and TY are about as likeable as the screaming Mary on So You Think You Can Dance.
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11-09-2009 @12:24AM Edward Brooks said... I would like to know who Jahangir Mehta is under the table with? There is no way you can tell me that, that sorry excuse of flesh has done as well as he has with out kissing some thing that i would not care to kiss. I think he suck as a chef as well as a person. He has tried to sabotage the other chefs, and then crys when it is done to him. tonight we herd the judges say bad things about his food, and good thing about the womens food, and then they kick off the women. this was wrong in all ways. i have been an iron chef fan for years, no more, they can kiss my butt. i wont watch it again. food network, you suck. if my wife did not watch other shows on your channel, i would lock it off my TV. tell others that i am wrong if you wish, i know the truth. y'all suck. p.s. i'am being as nice as i can with out throwing up. eddie
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11-17-2009 @11:22PM angela said... HAHA I had a great laugh reading this and completely agree with your descriptions of his befuddled expressions. It's so completely irritating. And the way he speaks... it always sounds like he has his tongue stuck in his throat. I think Food Network regards Jeffrey Steingarten too highly; what cooking experience does he really have? He's a writer, for goodness' sake. I'd like to think of Simon on a different level; his criticism is at least constructive.
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11-22-2009 @10:13PM Rich La Cava said... This idiot does not deserve to judge peoples food on the food network. He is a drunk who has no class or taste and he is insulting to all who challenge his stupid opinions. He makes people want to stop watching the show because of his arrogance. Please get rid of him. I am sure everyone would be happy.
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11-23-2009 @5:19PM Paffy said... Jeffrey Steingarten should go. He never adds anything to the show except grumpy growls and who ever said his opinion was better than anyone elses. He treats the women on the panel as inferior and I think a more moderate judge would be more interesting and better received.
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1-09-2010 @8:57PM Rebecca said... Do you notice, though, that he will make jokes with a straight face? He is often being humorous, it's just not your typical type of humor. His insults often have coy humor in them. And I notice that he does not argue with women who might be sensitive and not "play back" to his poking... he'll just stay quiet after they disagree with him.
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