Nectar Ales' Black Xantus - Beer of the Week

Joshua M. Bernstein has written about brews, bars and booze for Gourmet, New York Magazine, Time Out New York, ForbesTraveler.com and The New York Times.

Sometimes you can teach an old bird new tricks.

Since 1987, California's hummingbird-themed Nectar Ales (founded by Humboldt Brewing but bought by Firestone Walker in 2004) has focused on super-quaffable session brews such as the caramel-hoppy Nectar IPA and its flagship, the full-bodied Red Nectar amber ale. These are beers that focus on flavor, not a high-proof punch that sends you sprawling.

But Nectar Ales has finally busted its low-alcohol template with its coffee-infused, bourbon-barrel-aged Black Xantus imperial stout (named after a Mexican hummingbird species). It's the brand's inaugural over-the-top, 22-ounce release.

"We have been working on this stout recipe for four years, patiently tweaking things until we were satisfied," says head brewer Matt Brynildson. "I've also spent time with the folks at Joebella Coffee, who are our local roaster. After learning about the agronomics surrounding coffee and the art of roasting, the lightbulb went on."

This hummingbird is a real heavyweight.

Fittingly, Black Xantus is a bright example of a dark, decadent imperial stout. Xantus pours the color of a coal vein, topped by a thick, tan head. The aromatics are a complex blend of freshly roasted java, bitter chocolate and toffee, with a whisper of bourbon. The creamy, if thin-bodied, taste follows suit. It flickers from chocolate brownies to espresso to dark cherries and prunes, with a warming, oaky heat (11 percent ABV) fit for stoking a stomach fire on fall nights.

Do you favor any coffee-flavored stouts? Spill some science in the comments.