Looking for delicious, quick, easy recipes? Look no further. Click here.

'The Next Iron Chef' - Too Much Is Never Enough



Marc Dacascos. Photo: Food Network.
Not enough tension in your cooking competition shows? Do you find your blood pressure leveling out to near-normal readings during "Top Chef"? Do you wish that "Chopped" had more creepy smoke-machine fog piped into the set? Would judges' decisions be more exacting if only they were accompanied by loud, metallic wooshing sounds?

You're in luck. Last week brought the return of "The Next Iron Chef," one of the Food Network's variations on the legendary Japanese cook-off show, and with it a heaping helping of adrenalin-fueled, hacksaw-edited mania. After just two episodes, it's clear the show isn't going to give us a moment's peace, whether to pour ourselves a nice glass of sherry or grab our anti-anxiety meds -- or both, should it ever come to that.

For those keeping track, this is not "Iron Chef America," the cooking-in-front-of-a-stadium spectacle that's closest to the Japanese original. In a way, that makes it more interesting -- in place of mega-celebs like Mario Batali, you get a bevy of less over-exposed folks like New York's Jehangir Mehta, of Graffiti -- and also closer in structure to Bravo's ratings king, "Top Chef."

All Iron Chefs can be summarized by two overarching concepts: disgustingly weird ingredients and -- we hope -- intentionally hilarious hyperbole. For the latter, look no further than the second season premiere, in which our ten cheftestants are flown to Los Angeles (the nation's "melting pot" of cuisine, apparently) and introduced with all the fanfare of the first NASA astronauts in "The Right Stuff."

And that's not the half of it. "Iron Chef" isn't "Iron Chef" without "The Chairman," an announcer capable of riling up a sumo-wrestling crowd, and venerable Hawaiian actor Mark Dacascos more than fits the bill: "I've summoned you to the City of Angels, because you are the stars of the kitchen!" The Food Network's own lovable resident geek Alton Brown presides over the competition itself, administering both sympathy and sarcasm in equal doses.

Brown is prone to the folksy, "What'cha makin?" sort of commentary, but when it comes time to dole out the challenges, he spares nothing: "Duck's tongues! How lucky for you!" There are no dispassionate, Tom Colicchio-style observations here: Think Tim Gunn sensitivity crossed with Michael Kors bitchiness and you'll come closest to the tone set on "Next Iron Chef."

Meanwhile, the level of technique from the chefs plucked from their four-star stations is stunning -- that is, what you can catch of it in between whiplash-inducing camera movements. The first episode's "Fearlessness" challenge found just about every chef working far outside his or her comfort zone, from Mehta's aforementioned duck tongue to Nate Appleman's squeamishly accepted dare to cook with unhatched eggs, umbilical cords still attached.

We'll have to take chef Seamus Mullen's word on the olfactory offense of his assigned ingredient: "You couldn't discern the difference between dirty diapers and stinky tofu with your eyes closed." But his ability to use it in place of blue cheese in a stuffed, bacon-wrapped fig and in place of tripe in a Spanish stew made the judges' complaint that they wished they could "taste the funk" a little spurious.

In fact, the talent level is so uniformly high -- and judging so uniformly picky, largely due to resident grump Jeffrey Steingarten -- the chefs voted off so far have seemed not so much lacking in ingenuity as they are lacking in an extra set of hands. Eric Greenspan had the unenviable task of making grasshoppers presentable, and did so in a grasshopper-mint-chocolate salad, but it was his poorly cooked pork pairing that got him sacked. For last night's "reinterpretation" challenge, Holly Smith's deconstructed bouillabaisse was "twisted too far," to use her own words, although it seemed by no means a failure, producing a stellar aioli at the very least.

If you're looking for upstarts and water-cooler griping, then stick to "Top Chef." But when that season ends -- and if you're willing to risk a seizure or two -- then "Next Iron Chef" just might fit the bill on Sunday nights.

Related Headlines

Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)

Add your comments

Please keep your comments relevant to this blog entry. Email addresses are never displayed, but they are required to confirm your comments.

When you enter your name and email address, you'll be sent a link to confirm your comment, and a password. To leave another comment, just use that password.

To create a live link, simply type the URL (including http://) or email address and we will make it a live link for you. You can put up to 3 URLs in your comments. Line breaks and paragraphs are automatically converted — no need to use <p> or <br> tags.

New Users

Current Users

Tip of the Day

December may have peppermint bark, but have you thought to incorporate the taste of autumn into white chocolate with a rich pumpkin swirl?

RSS NEWSFEEDS

Slashfood Features


Seasons
Spring (74)
Summer (300)
Fall (272)
Winter (77)
What is it?
Beef (635)
Bread (83)
Candy (520)
Cheese (585)
Chocolate (838)
Comfort Food (807)
Condiments (265)
Dairy (567)
Eggs (321)
Fish (378)
Fruit (1064)
Grains (623)
Herbs (10)
Meat (359)
Nuts/seeds (318)
Organic (5)
Pork (404)
Poultry (464)
Rice (57)
Sandwiches (34)
Shellfish (192)
Soups/Salads (122)
Spices (322)
Sugar (434)
Tea (7)
Vegetables (1414)
Holidays
Christmas (133)
Easter (37)
Halloween (99)
Hanukkah (56)
Memorial Day (15)
Mother's Day (37)
New Year's (41)
Passover (11)
St. Patrick's Day (14)
Thanksgiving (205)
Valentine's Day (50)
News
Food Politics (4)
Bakeries (151)
Books (810)
Business (1287)
Celebrities (242)
Coffee shops (194)
Edible Gifts (39)
Farming (467)
Fast Food (385)
Food News (587)
Health & Medical (873)
How To (1433)
Lists (836)
Magazines (509)
New Products (1589)
Newspapers (1632)
On the Blogs (2522)
Raves & Reviews (1189)
Recipes (2495)
Restaurants (1473)
Science (742)
Site Announcements (186)
Stores & Shopping (1023)
Television/Film (736)
Trends (1440)
Vegetarian/Vegan (96)
Features
Cheese Course (74)
Diary of a Distiller (30)
Dining at Our Desks (8)
Festive Family Feasts (9)
Guilty Pleasures (83)
Quizzes (22)
Raising the Bar (23)
Taste Test (18)
The Hungry Bride (34)
The Skinny Chef (67)
Tinfoil Swan (26)
Tip of the Day (379)
Wild Edibles (22)
X Marks the Spot (1)
Back to School (14)
Cocktail Hour (133)
Cocktail Revolution (0)
Cookbook Spotlight (573)
Cooking Without a Recipe (5)
Culinary Kids (235)
Did you know? (458)
Fall Flavors (138)
Feast Your Eyes (411)
Food Gadgets (485)
Food Oddities (1044)
Food Porn  (892)
Food Quest (176)
Foodie Flicks (65)
Frugal Food (95)
Garden Party (28)
Hacking Food (109)
Happy Hour (212)
Head to Tail (44)
In Sixty Seconds (738)
Ingredient Spotlight (60)
Leftovers  (53)
Light Food (189)
Liquor Cabinet (186)
Our Bloggers (34)
Pop Food (146)
Pumpkin Day (12)
Real Kitchens (85)
Retro cookery (154)
Slashfood Ate (206)
Slashfood Talks (4)
Slow cooking (55)
Super Size Me (121)
The History of... (72)
What's On Tap? (44)
Wine of the Week (53)
YumSugar (55)
What Time Is It?
Breakfast (757)
Dessert (1371)
Dinner (1388)
Hors D'oeuvres (319)
Lunch (1041)
Snacks (1128)
Where Is It?
America (2663)
Europe (515)
France (178)
Italy (174)
Asia (552)
Australia (158)
British Isles (875)
Caribbean (38)
Central Africa (8)
East Coast (582)
Eastern Europe (45)
Islands (59)
Mediterranean (131)
Mexico (42)
Middle East (63)
Midwest Cities (232)
Midwest Rural (74)
New Zealand (63)
North America (95)
Northern Africa (21)
Northern Europe (66)
South Africa (36)
South America (101)
South Asia (125)
Southern States (307)
West Coast (938)
What are you doing?
Baking (833)
Barbecuing (112)
Boiling (130)
Braising (21)
Broiling (37)
Frying (190)
Grilling (212)
Microwaving (40)
Roasting (105)
Slow cooking (34)
Steaming (45)
Choices
Fairtrade (16)
Artisan Foods (163)
Local Eating (149)
Additives
Artificial Sugars (42)
High-fructose corn syrup (21)
MSG (7)
Trans Fats (58)
Libations
Hot chocolate (27)
Soda (175)
Spirits (425)
Beer (535)
Brandy (13)
Champagne (120)
Cocktails (474)
Coffee (419)
Gin (115)
Juice (126)
Liqueurs (81)
Non-alcoholic (27)
Rum (103)
Teas (185)
Tequila (23)
Vodka (164)
Water (90)
Whisky (119)
Wine (765)
Affairs
Celebrations (108)
Closings (14)
Festivals (89)
Holidays (305)
Openings (51)
Parties (246)
Tastings (163)

RESOURCES

Powered by Blogsmith

Featured Stories

 

Most Commented On (60 days)

Twitter Updates

Updates From

Sites We Love

Other Weblogs Inc. Network blogs you might be interested in:

Also on AOL