'The Perfect Scoop' - Cookbook Spotlight

Photo: Amazon.com.

'The Perfect Scoop'
Recipes by David Lebovitz
Photographs by Lara Hata
Ten Speed Press -- 2007
Buy it on Amazon

Clinging to the very last bit of warm weather, we hoped that making several batches of ice cream would encourage Mother Nature to hold out on cooler weather for a little longer. David Lebovitz, a well-known pastry chef, received much of his training at Alice Waters' Chez Panisse in California. Now based in Paris, Lebovitz merges all things sweet and makes them manageable for the home cook. "The Perfect Scoop" is a testament to how ice cream should be made: creamy, sweet, savory and with unlimited creativity.

While ice cream takes center stage, Lebovitz also includes recipes for sorbets, sherbets, granitas, sauces and toppings. Boasting both classics, such as Malted Milk and Tin Roof Ice Cream, and more modern flavors of Crème Fraiche, Goat Cheese and Roquefort Honey Ice Creams, this book lends itself to a wide audience. Strawberry and Mojito Granitas will be a big hit at the next autumn barbecue, and adults and children alike with be excited to see the bright fruit sherbet and sorbet combinations.

See what we tested and find out whether the book's worth buying after the jump.

Takeaway tips: Appropriately titled "Basics," the first chapter holds the key to creating the perfect batch of ice cream. A photographic, step-by-step tutorial on preparing a custard base is easy to understand and crucial reading. A thorough section within this chapter talks about the various types of ice cream machines and their pros and cons. For example, the common household machine requires pre-freezing, which means advance preparation and that the container needs to be completely refrozen between batches.

Quality of pictures: Refreshing photos of ice creams, sorbets and granitas would instigate cravings in anyone for these chilly delights year-round. However, with one photograph roughly every three pages, it left us wanting so much more. Understanding it may be hard to photograph ice cream in a variety of ways, the creamy decadence of each photograph would have left a lasting impression.

We tested: Chocolate Ice Cream and Olive Oil Ice Cream

Sometimes the simple things in life remain the truest pleasures -- take for example "The Perfect Scoop's" chocolate ice cream. The intense cocoa powder mixed with bittersweet chopped chocolate, heavy cream and sugar will have you licking the bottom of the ice cream maker to the very last drop. Its rich, creamy texture reminded us of drinking chocolate. If Lebovitz was trying to transport our imaginations to the cobblestone streets of Paris, he has succeeded with this recipe, which was a piece of cake to follow.

On the less decadent side, but just as irresistible, the olive oil ice cream is divine. Seen more and more in restaurants in the U.S. (Mario Batali's Olive Oil Gelato at Otto springs to mind), it proves to be a refreshing ending to any meal. The milk, sugar, salt and eggs are warmed together first. After it thickens and is strained, a half cup of fruity olive oil is whisked into the custard. Take Lebovitz's advice here and sprinkle a few grains of sea salt on top for the perfect crunch.

Worth the investment: While you'll need an ice cream maker for most of the recipes in this book, your investment will be worthwhile after you taste your first batch. Lebovitz's recipes and helpful tips -- along with quality ingredients and taking the time to perfect the custard -- will yield mouthwatering results every time.