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New Rick Bayless Eatery XOCO's Churros Hard to Get


Xoco's churros are hard to get. Photo: ehfisher/flicker.
Would you wait three days for a "Top Chef" churro?

Rick Bayless, one of Chicago's top chefs and the winner of Bravo's "Top Chef Masters," is extending his gourmet Mexican empire to street food. Last week, he added XOCO (pronounced "Sho-Co") to his string of Windy City hot spots including Frontera Grill and Topolobampo. The latest aims to bring authentic Mexican tortas and caldos (sandwiches and soups) to the masses. How did it go over with the locals? The line snaked out the door.

When Slashfood swung by for after-dinner churros -- the delectable fried-dough treats sprinkled with sugar and spices -- it took three nights of trying to get in.

Bayless has said on his blog that he wanted a place on the menus for "flavors that aren't focused on the long-simmered moles and sauces that those restaurants specialize in; flavors that slap you in the face with their simple, bold brightness; flavors that you only find in Mexico from some of the street vendors and marketplace cooks."

XOCO gives the "Top Chef Masters" champ a new toy, a wood-burning oven for dishes that demand overnight cooking, like the delectable cochinita pibil: roasted suckling pig spiced with achiote and barbacoa.

XOCO is built around the oven. The small but sleek and welcoming restaurant adjoins his others, allowing Bayless to glide from one kitchen to the other. So there's a good chance the master himself is making your pepito torta, a tangle of braised tall-grass short ribs, caramelized onion, artisan Jack cheese, black beans and pickled jalapenos.

And the churros? The crinkled loops of dough are golden brown and dusted with a balance of sugar and cinnamon. The hot chocolate, made from beans ground on the premises, is creamy and spicy at the same time. There are several varieties, including Almendrado, which included a chocolate shot and almond milk, though we went for the traditional Aztec, which included chile and allspice with the fresh-ground chocolate.

Were you able to get into XOCO? Tell us what you think in the comments below.

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