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Wine Blends - Wine of the Week


Châteauneuf du Pape
2005 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Châteauneuf-Du-Pape. Photo: K. Todd Storch, Flickr
Gretchen Roberts writes the wine blog Vinobite, has passed the introductory course at the Court of Master Sommeliers and is studying for her sommelier certification this fall.

Like most 20- and 30-something Americans who didn't travel to Europe as high school or college students, I discovered wine by the varietal: Merlot. Cabernet Sauvignon. Chardonnay. Eventually, I branched out into Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc.

Varietals, or wines made from one type of grape, were easy to understand. I could read up on the flavor profile of the grape -- Merlot is soft, fleshy and fruity, with hints of violets and sometimes a note of green pepper -- and find those notes in the glass.

Then I traveled (virtually) to Europe and discovered blends: Rioja. Bordeaux. Chianti. These wines are made from a blend of grapes -- and learning about them was like learning a new language. They're labeled by the place, not the varietal, mostly because Europeans are adamant about the importance of terroir. Well, that and the fact that it would be awkward for the maker of Châteauneuf-du-Pape to list all 13 grapes in its blend.

After the jump, five blends I adore.
Blends are smart, really. They combine the best characteristics of each grape to make a wine that's better than the individual varietals. A classic example is the southern Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre, called GSM in Australia. Grenache is rustic, sweet, dusty and usually high in alcohol. Syrah is powerful and meaty, with spicy pepper notes. Mourvèdre is elegant, with good acidity to balance out the low acidity of Grenache.

Here are five blends I've come to love, even after my monogamous start with varietals:

Champagne and classically blended sparkling wines. Champagne, a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, is not only a blend of grapes, but usually a blend of vintages, too. Champagne houses combine several years' worth of wine to create a house style that's similar from year to year.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape. As mentioned above, this southern Rhone wine can have up to 13 varietals, but in practice it's generally made with just the big three: Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The wine is silky, rich, powerful, spicy, balanced and absolutely delicious. Its neighbor, Gigondas, offers similar wines for less moolah.

Central Coast and Washington Rhone Rangers. In California and Washington, the Rhone Rangers make Rhone-style blends. They're just as rich and complex as their French cousins, only fruitier and eminently drinkable in the New World style -- no roast game or other food pairing required.

Rioja. What's not to love about this blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuel that tastes of cherries, strawberries and hints of oaky vanilla? Being relatively inexpensive (you can get a nice bottle for $10-12), Rioja is a great everyday wine for fall and winter tables.

Salice Salentino. In Puglia, Italy's boot, this wine blend made from Negroamaro and malvasia nera is always a pleasure to sip, with its signature Italian dark, leathery earthiness and a tinge of bitterness at the end.

What's your favorite wine blend? Please spill in the comments!

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