Photo: Pacific Rim

Gretchen Roberts writes the wine blog Vinobite, has passed the introductory course at the Court of Master Sommeliers and is studying for her sommelier certification this fall.

Like the incredibly talented actor who is not quite dreamy enough to snag blockbuster roles but remains a critics' darling, Riesling is the pet wine of sommeliers and wine writers who understand its magnificence and versatility. But poor Riesling doesn't get a lot of love in the stores -- not like Chardonnay, Cabernet and other A-list varietals, anyways.

Sad, because Riesling has so much to offer the discerning drinker. It's exceptionally versatile, producing wines from bone-dry, high-acid dinner whites to succulently intense "I've died and floated into paradise" dessert vinos. Its flavors range from lemon to green apple to peaches with whiffs of rose petals, violets and a mineral core. Great aged Rieslings sometimes have what the Brits call "petrol," or a whiff of gasoline. (Sounds weird, but it's a mark of quality.)

After the jump, a few good Rieslings and the food with which to pair them.

Most critics agree that the best Rieslings come from Germany and France's Alsace region, but I think some of the best buys come from Washington and Australia. Why? German Riesling is wonderful on the high end, but if you're only planning to spend $10 or $15, what's generally on the shelves is a silly label wrapped around a somewhat insipid wine.

Put your money into better quality from a different area to be pleasantly surprised at Riesling's deliciousness. From Washington state (where critics from Jancis Robinson to Harvey Steinman find exceptional bottles), a few favorite brands include Hogue, Pacific Rim, Charles Smith, Mercer and Chateau Ste. Michelle. All of these are under $20 and hover in price from around $10 to $12.

Australia is another surprisingly good value Riesling producer. Try the Yalumba, Banrock Station or Yellow Tail, all under $12 and great examples of how even large production can't hide the greatness of the grape.

As for food, Riesling remains the consummate versatile player, pairing well with a variety of foods because it is fruity and high in acid. Match sweeter Rieslings with spicy Thai or Indian food, and dry, zippy Riesling with tuna salad, light pasta dishes and vegetarian meals. Dessert Rieslings are delicious with apple pie, creme brulee or rice pudding. And, of course, they're all superb alone. Riesling is just that good.

Got a favorite Riesling? Let me know in the comments!