'Modern Spice' - Cookbook Spotlight

by Sarah De Heer, Posted Jul 17th 2009 @ 2:00PM

Photo: Amazon.com

'Modern Spice'
Recipes by Monica Bhide
Forward by Mark Bittman
Simon & Schuster -- 2009
Buy it on Amazon

Madhur Jaffrey may be the doyenne of Indian cuisine, but other up-and-coming writers are starting to make significant impact, particularly Monica Bhide. Her Indian-American cooking spans three cookbooks that embrace traditional ways while welcoming change and innovation. The latest, "Modern Spice," is a testament to authentic Indian spices used in nontraditional ways.

The book starts out with chutney and marinade recipes, followed by drinks, appetizers, vegetables, poultry and meat, fish and shellfish, rice and breads and finally desserts. Recipes that kept this reader coming back for more include Coriander and Fennel Crusted Lamb Chops, Masala Omelet with Green Chile Chutney, Saffron Mussel Stew and Pomegranate Shrimp.

See what we tested and find out whether the book's worth buying after the jump.

Takeaway tips: An extensive section at the beginning of this book tackles the "Modern Spice" pantry, which includes a tutorial on Indian spices and herbs, the importance of using local products and Monica's Kitchen Rules. These rules prove vital to her recipes and should be read before cooking. For example, Bhide states: "Use nonstick cookware where possible; in Indian food we don't deglaze pans to prepare sauces. Nonstick uses less oil and I find the food cooks faster." While some of the recipes call for ingredients not readily available in your pantry, Bhide provides suggestions for shops and Web sites where you can procure them.

Quality of pictures: The book produces incredibly colorful flavors, so its lack of photos is quite disappointing. The majority are in black and white, with only a small section showcasing a handle of recipes in color. These recipes deserve more.

We tested: Beet Salad with Yogurt Dressing; Red Chile, Garlic and Basil Chicken

Trimmed beets are mixed with an aromatic combination of white pepper, oil, salt and freshly ground coriander and roasted until fork tender. Fresh coriander produced an addictive lemony fragrance that had guests constantly asking, "Is it done yet?" While the beets roast, a simple dressing of plain yogurt, minced fresh ginger, sugar and salt is mixed together. After the beets have come to room temperature, the skin peels off easily with a paring knife. Cut into wedges, and the simple, delicious salad is ready to serve. Beets burst with flavor on their own, but mixed with the ginger-yogurt dressing they put this dish over-the-top.

The chicken entrée made for an ideal weeknight meal, ready in no time flat and pleasing to even the fussiest eaters. Chicken thighs are mixed with shallots, garlic, dried red chiles, turmeric and salt, browned and simmered in a broth of water and coconut milk to add depth. When the chicken is cooked, fresh basil leaves are mixed in and dinner is ready. While the flavors of the turmeric and coconut broth did not disappoint, this dish was lacking salt, which was easily remedied.

Worth the investment: While you'll have to stock your pantry with some key ingredients like chaat masala, curry powders and basmati rice, it is more than worth it. Page after page, recipes will leave your mouth watering. Whether you're a novice to the Indian cuisine or a pro, this book will win over any chef's heart.

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