Ask a Sommelier - Lobster Rolls and Wine with Arrows' Danielle Johnson Walker

by Pervaiz Shallwani, Posted Jul 7th 2009 @ 2:00PM

Danielle Johnson Walker.
Photo: Daniel Doke Photography

When beachgoers dine at the celebrated southern Maine restaurant Arrows and its sister seaside bistro MC Perkins Cove for a ubiquitous lobster roll, it falls to sommelier Danielle Johnson Walker to find an ideal wine to match with what she calls the "lazy man's lobster."

A self-trained sommelier, Walker uses the winter months -- when Arrows is hibernating -- to pair vacations with winery visits throughout South Africa and Europe to add extra oomph to her vino repertoire. As summer kicks into high gear and our hankering for lobster on buttered buns borders on fixation, we quizzed Walker about secret cooking techniques, wines to avoid and what makes lobster rolls so bleeping addictive.

What makes the lobster roll such a great food?
It's the lazy man's lobster. When in Maine, you eat boiled lobster once or twice and after that you have the lobster roll. I don't think it's a food people can get sick of. It's like a good hamburger.

After the jump, the secret the the Arrows lobster roll and why to avoid oaked chardonnays.

How is the lobster roll made at Arrows?
They take a bread-and-butter bun, like a brioche which already has a fat to it. Then they take fresh lobster meat and combine it with chervil, tarragon and parsley and a little mayo.

What is the secret behind preparing the lobster meat?
We steam ours and then butter-poach the meat.

What are the flavors in a lobster roll that you are trying to pair?
Trying to pair a little bit of the herbs. You are trying to use a wine with a little more acidity to pair it with the -- oh my God, don't say the natural fat -- but that's it.

What is the most classic pairing?
A lot of people enjoy a Riesling or a white Bordeaux [with lobster].

What would be on the other end, but still work?
The more esoteric pairing would be the Hermitage.

What wine would you not pair with a lobster roll?
Something that is too heavy. I don't think I would ever pair a red wine with a lobster roll. When I think of lobster rolls, I think of Perkins Cove in Ogunquit (Maine) and the lobster boats and sitting out with a breeze. You are not wearing a suit and tie. You want something that is light, but has some backbone to it.

So, what whites wouldn't you pair with a lobster roll?
A really large-body California Chardonnay. It has its time and place, but I wouldn't want to drink a large oaked Chardonnay.

Pinot Grigio would be fine?
A Pinot Grigio is light and dry. I think it would work.

Is there any one grape that goes better than any other?
Taste is subjective, so I think there are better pairings than others. Going from a white Burgundy to a Pinot Gris to Sauvignon Blanc, all could be good or would be good with a lobster roll.

What makes a lobster roll such a craving type of food?
I think it's a regional thing. When you come to Maine, you want lobster. Even if you don't like it, you want to try it again. Those of use who really love it, really love it. Talk to a chocoholic.

Below, Johnson Walker offers her five favorites under $25 with tasting notes, in order from a light Sauvignon Blanc to a bold Crozes-Hermitage.

2007 "Sincerely" Sauvignon Blanc, Neil Ellis, Stellenbosch, South Africa: "It's got a littler minerality to it and has an herbaceous undertone. It pairs well with a a lobster roll with lots of fresh herbs. For fruit, it's got this pretty gooseberry and lime."

2005 Fiano di Avellino, Terredora di Paolo, Campagna, Italy: "It's clear. It's very aromatic. You can almost get almond or beeswax [notes while sipping] it. It's completely stainless steel fermented. For those who don't like oak, this is a good wine. The wine tastes like it smells. The aroma is what you taste on the palette."

2004 Pinot Gris, Trimbach Reserve, Alsace, France: "It has more fruit to it. It has almost like pear undertones. Slight bit of vanilla. Not vanilla like a California Chardonnay. I always tell my guests, it tastes like McIntosh apple, and it's very round in your mouth. It has a creaminess to it.

2004 Savigny-Lès-Beaune, Vincent Girardin, Les Vermots Dessus, France: "If you like minerality, you will really love this wine."

2006 Crozes-Hermitage Blanc, Domaine Belle, Les Terres Blanches, France: "This is my favorite. It's totally handcrafted. There are definitely some apricot, peach undertones to it. It's a really lush wine."

Filed Under: Ingredients
Tags: ask a sommelier, AskASommelier, lobster, lobster roll, LobsterRoll, pervaiz shallwani, PervaizShallwani, shellfish, summer, wine