Chez Dolley and James Madison. Photo: Mark F. Levisay

There's no telling how Dolley Madison, celebrated for her exceedingly proper social graces, would have felt about folks sifting through her midden.

But that's just what the archaeologists at Montpelier -- the onetime Virginia home of former President James Madison -- have been doing since 2007, when they first uncovered the (very first) First Lady's trash heap. Their findings, many of which pertain to the Madisons' culinary habits, will likely be supplemented this summer by a new excavation of the estate's North Kitchen. According to spokeswoman Beth Morrill, interpreters at the historic site are planning to use their discoveries about how and what the Madisons ate to engage a new generation of hungry visitors.

"We're teaching children about recycling," Morrill says, pointing to a recently unveiled hands-on exhibit that teaches children about the Madisons' penchant for using every part of an animal (every part except, it seems, for the shell: Dolley Madison's midden was well-stocked with discarded oyster shells, the fruit of which likely paired nicely with the Champagne she served her guests.)

Although archaeologists say it's too early to draw any conclusions from their work in the North Kitchen, where they anticipate they'll learn more about antebellum food preservation methods, they've already reassembled some of Dolley's favorite menus by piecing together the scraps found in her midden.

Dolley Madison, who famously rejected her traditional Quaker wardrobe when she married Virginia's Representative James Madison, was an inimitable party host who surely would have her own cookbook and television show today (and, quite possibly, her own line of oyster forks). Although she's best remembered for her sedate, sit-down affairs, Montpelier's crack team of domestic Indiana Joneses proved she knew how to throw a summer shindig.

If Dolley Madison's trash is to be trusted, her summer barbecues included "ham with apples, roasted chickens, grits with cheese, sweet potato cakes, black bean salad, fresh tomatoes, corn relish, pickles, preserves, corn pone, figs, grapes and pound cake," Morrill writes.

And, setting straight all those barbecue snobs who think swine cooked low and slow doesn't belong with wine, the Madisons apparently guzzled the stuff. Spiked punches and Madeiras would likely have been the choice beverages for a summer soiree, Morrill says.

Morrill stressed that the Madisons' tastes will become still clearer as archaeologists delve deeper into the North Kitchen. In the meantime, Madison fans will have to do as Dolley did: Enjoy a glass of wine, smile politely and await further news.