To much of the country, charismatic Food Network star and restaurateur Emeril Lagasse has become, well, just another household name. But in Bethlehem, Pa., tucked in the foothills of the state's Pocono Mountains, Emeril has become a culinary heartthrob whose embrace has sent the locals into a frenzy.

For the residents of this overhauled steel town already gaga over the coming of its first casino, the addition of Emeril's Chophouse side-by-side with the slots is a coup. After all, the Yankee (he hails from Fall River, Mass.) bypassed New York City (where he has a second home) and Boston (an hour from his birthplace) for "Christmas City" to house his first northeast eatery.

The Bam! man was on hand Tuesday for a media luncheon, and is currently in Bethlehem overseeing a test run of his 230-seat restaurant for its sold-out Friday opening. Located inside an old steel mill building, the restaurant is fittingly outfitted with cast-iron steel flourishes and a menu combining Emeril's bayou style with the no nonsense meat and potato sensibilities of the region: "We are very sensitive to the market no matter where we are," he told us.


Along with local Amish chickens and valley greens, in keeping with Pennsylvania Dutch who settled the region, Emeril's menu boasts plenty of pie: apple, banana coconut cream and ice-box lemon meringue. (We loved the rhubarb, and were saddened to hear it won't be on the menu.) "This is a cool area," Emeril said. "There is a lot going on here. It is very eclectic. The people in this area, that's why we are here. And we are excited."


It may sound like spin, but locals are eating it up. When server Cynthia German was hired, she knew only that she was working at a chophouse. A few days later a friend called to let her know the man behind the chop was no other than Emeril. She recalls the two embracing in a giddy squeal. "I got to shake his hand," German swooned. "I was so happy. I am sure I turned pink red."

Despite the financial boon to his burgeoning "Emeril empire" of 11 restaurants, books and cookware, the so-called ragin' Cajun isn't done in Bethlehem. Apparently Emeril is so smitten with the region he will open a burger joint in the casino later this year and one more eatery whose concept has yet to be hammered out.

Showing the restraint of man who may not want to become a caricature of himself, Emeril didn't leave the crowd of journalists, community leaders and business folks with his customary "Bam!" But that didn't stop local newscasters from imitating his exclamation in their enthusiastic broadcasts. The Massachusetts-born Cajun has found yet another home.