South Africa - Wine of the Week

by Gretchen Roberts, Posted May 11th 2009 @ 3:00PM

Gretchen Roberts has passed the introductory course at the Court of Master Sommeliers and is studying for her sommelier certification this fall.

Taking on an entire country in a single post seems foolhardy at best, but here at Slashfood we're all about showcasing lip-smacking deals, and South African wine falls squarely into that category.

I'm not the only one who thinks so: Wine Spectator featured South Africa in its April 30 issue as one of five countries producing delicious wine for the cost-conscious imbiber. Wine Business Monthly published a two-part report on South African wine, whose exports to the U.S. have gone from next to nothing five years ago to a million cases last year.

More South Africa - Wine of the Week after the jump.

Before I wax poetic about the great values on the Cape, a few caveats.

South African wine under $25 can vary widely in quality. A $20 Chardonnay may be a bland, overoaked, international style wine you could get from California for half the price, but a $10 Shiraz is restrained, structured, and a delicious value. On the flip side, wines in the $30 to $50 range are often well worth the price (which isn't true in all regions).
Though Wine Business Monthly says "most of the aromas of burnt rubber and smokiness that characterized South African wine are now absent," I have found that they're often still there, but in smaller doses than previously. That may be due to the terroir, or a fault of the winemaking, as Peter May, founder of The Pinotage Club, said recently in the comments section in a recent post on Pinotage.
As a young wine producing country (South African wines have really only come into their own since the 1990s, after the end of Apartheid), South Africa is still trying to figure out its place in the wine world. Previously, it has been known for Chenin Blanc and Pinotage; now many producers are making international varietals like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. What emerges after the awkward teenage years will be interesting.

And now for some South African love. In general, Chenin Blanc is still a good bet, as is Syrah/Shiraz and red blends. Some inexpensive Sauvignon Blancs are also good; they're a cross between the fruity, zingy New Zealand Sauv Blancs and the more restrained wines coming out of the Loire in France. Here are a couple of bottles and brands I like:

Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc ($15) is rich, minerally and full of the aroma and taste of dried, honeyed apricots. The wine has a hint of smoke that adds to its sensuality instead of taking away from the fruit.

Kanu Chenin Blanc ($7) is fresh, fruity and lively; it's a steal for the price.

Brampton Shiraz ($14) is full of black cherries, blackberries, black pepper and a hint of chocolate, but not too sweet and jammy like some Australian Shirazes can be. Instead, it boasts a well-defined structure.

Indaba Shiraz ($10) is a bit brighter and sweeter than the Brampton, with flavors of blueberries and a hint of spice. I also liked the Indaba Chardonnay ($10), which tasted of fresh pineapple, a touch of oak and soft, creamy butter.

For a splurge, the Rustenberg John X Merriman ($30), a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Syrah, is a great value for the price. The wine tastes of dark blackberries and black currants, hints of spice and a tiny whiff of green pepper, with plenty of firm tannins and a great structure.

Got a favorite South African brand? Please dish in the comments!

Filed Under: Wine of the Week, Drink Recipes, Drinks
Tags: south africa, SouthAfrica, wine, wine of the week, WineOfTheWeek

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

5-11-2009 @8:11PM Mel Kozek said... There are some really great red blends from S. Africa, as well as some decent lower priced wines. Take a look at Fairview Estates wines for both kinds. Jackelsfountain for the expensive ($35-40) and Goat-Roti for the less expensive are just two worth trying.

S. African wines were widely available in Canada well before they became common in the US. As a group, the wines have gotten much better, in general, over the past few years.

I really agree with you on the Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc, a grape not familiar to most Americans.
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5-12-2009 @2:46AM ecru said... South African wines are some of my favorite affordable 'everyday' quaffs, though my experience has mostly been with the whites, and the occasional pinotage.
I'd add a mention of Fairvalley's chenin blanc. A nice off-dry citrusy wine with maybe a touch of melon and pear. Not quite as minerally as Ken Forrester or the chenins of vouvray, but at about 8.99 here in Penn, a quite nice complement to seafood or spicy Indian or Thai.
And the vinyard is owned and operated by a collective of Fairview employees. Fairview is run by Charles Back (one of the biggest names in SA wine) and includes the Goats Do Roam line. Back helped set up the Fairvalley vinyard adjacent to Fairview, to give the employees ownership of the land, where they live and produce the wine. A nice note/story for an economically priced, quite drinkable wine.

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