Somer Perez learned from the best: just out of high school, she started working at New York City's Beacon bar-restaurant with master mixologist Audrey Saunders. After Saunders left, Perez took over as the Beacon's head barkeep, moving on to claim the title of beverage director first at the Hotel on Rivington and then at the Royalton Hotel, where she became known for innovative, seasonally driven cocktails.Now the consulting mixologist at Elizabeth, another Gotham restaurant, and the head of her own consulting company, Perez continues to experiment with both classic and trendy ingredients, including agave nectar.
Here, she talks about how the benefit of using the natural sweetener (which comes from the agave plant and has a lower glycemic index than regular sugar) in her elixirs, and parts with an exclusive sparkling pear cocktail recipe.
So, why agave?
I started working with it a couple of years ago, when I was trying to come up with a way to make tequila cocktails a little less flat and more viscous. Another bartender was using it, but I hadn't really heard of it. Tequila also comes from the agave plant, and I almost instantly found agave a better, cleaner organic alternative to using simple syrup, which is made from white sugar.
How did customers react?
At the Royalton, I noticed reactions immediately: putting agave rather than sugar on the menu automatically gets people's attention. It turns a basic margarita or straightforward cocktail into something different, and a lot of people gravitate towards it.
Is it still viewed as a novelty in the bar world?
Especially in the past year, it's become widely accepted as a natural sweetener. It's almost like honey because there are so many brands, textures and consistencies.
Which kind do you use?
I use Madhava because it's raw, pure and organic. It's also not as thick as some of the brands that I've seen. For cocktails, the worst thing is when syrup sticks to the bottom of the glass. With Madhava, you don't get that.
Are you seeing a lot of other mixologists use agave in their cocktails?
I'd say that, across the board, it's becoming a second sweetener in any bar. In New York, PDT, the Pegu Club and Elizabeth, which is a restaurant, are all using it. It's everywhere. Two years ago, it was a stand out. Now everybody has simple syrup, agave and honey behind the bar.
What are some of the cocktails you use it for?
There's the Tequila Lowrise, which combines agave and tropical fruit-infused tequila with orange and pineapple juices and fresh ginger. It's shaken and served in a highball glass. I also use agave in gin drinks; gin with fresh berry puree and agave is nice.
Can you recommend a refreshing agave cocktail?
A really nice champagne drink is an ounce of pear vodka with an ounce of pear purée -- you can use the basic kind from Whole Foods. Then add a half-ounce of agave, shake it up and strain into a champagne glass. Add champagne or a dry sparkling wine like Prosecco, and a pear slice. It's a really great drink for spring.
Somer also gave us a recipe for a Sofrito, another refreshing cocktail that uses agave:
3/4 ounce fresh lime juice
1/2 ounce agave nectar syrup
2 ounces Silver Tequila
3/4 ounce Triple Sec
1 1/2 ounces Pom Wonderful juice
Pinch of red chili powder
Lime zest
In a mixing glass, combine all ingredients except for the lime zest and shake. Rim a rocks glass with the lime zest, using lime juice as "glue." Pour the shaken ingredients into the rocks glass over ice.

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5-11-2009 @2:54PM Barry said... I love the Agave Nectar in cocktails. Just made a Basil, agave and vodka concoction served in a martini glass last night!
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