Until this Monday, Babbo Pastry Chef Gina DePalma was the Kate Winslet of the culinary world, earning six James Beard Award nominations for the honor of Outstanding Pastry Chef but never taking the cake. The seventh time, though, proved to be the ... er ... icing. We caught up with DePalma this morning to chat about victory, pastry, her battle with ovarian cancer and her boss, the boisterous Mario Batali (aka Mr. Fanta Pants).

What did it feel like to the finally win a James Beard Award?
I tried not to break down into tears. I tried to keep myself together up there. After seven years, you try to emotionally turn yourself off. In past years I thought it was such a big deal to win, but it still felt good.

Is that why you were emotional on stage? That was part of it. It's also been a very tough year for me. I don't know if you know, I have been battling ovarian cancer. I was diagnosed four days after my sixth loss. I had a huge operation and went through chemo and lost all my hair. I am still in treatment. It was stage four. It was end of the line, but they got it all in surgery.

Hear why salted caramels should die and why DePalma is afraid to rock orange crocs after the jump.

This year, the theme of the awards was "Women In Food," but you were the only female chef to win a top prize (though three-time nominee Maria Hines of Tilth in Seattle won Best Chef Northwest). Was it bittersweet?
I agree. It would be nice if it was a little more even, but a lot of men up there have been nominated many, many times. Every once in a while someone shoots to the top very quickly, but most of the time [the awards] reward people who have put in their time. It's never really bothered me all that much. Behind every male chef is a grandma's recipe. The awards and the nominations are a reflection of the whole Beards process.

What dessert trend would you like to see die?
Salt. Everybody please freaking stop dumping salt on desserts! And would all the Yelpers stop flipping out about salt on desserts? I don't want to see the word salted caramel again. I was doing this 10 years ago. It's good, but it doesn't belong on everything. Sometimes it ruins the taste, sometimes it's acrid. Call me old-fashioned, but I like sweet. I am a pastry chef. You take away sweet and what else do I got?

What do you think of think of molecular gastronomy?
I am coming around to it. It's not my style at all, but there are some great things people are doing with it.

Have you ever used it in the pastry kitchen?
No. I am too stupid for that. Wait, let me give you a better answer. That would not work at our restaurant. We use olive oil.

What is the one piece of advice you would offer a home pastry chef?
Remember that pastry is food, just like your meat and your veg and to not be so mindlessly attached to a recipe. As a recipe writer myself, you can't predict everything, the temperature of the oven, someone's skill level. Use a recipe as a guide. Don't blame yourself and don't blame the recipe. Relax. It's supposed to be fun.

What is your comfort dessert?
Pie. It's what I love to make and it's what I love to eat, a big drippy pie. I can't fathom men making pies. It's such a girl thing to make pies.

What is your favorite ingredient?
Fruit. It's hard for me not to put fruit in every single dessert on the menu ... It's very Italian. I have seen chefs [in Italy] bring a pineapple into the dining room and carve it up like a steak. You would never see anyone in America do that.

Have you ever joined Mario in one of his all-night eating and drinking fests?
It has never been as debaucherous as it is made to be in the press. It's just having a good time with the people you work with. He knows lots of cool people.

Who's the coolest person you have met on a night out with Mario?
Alain Ducasse on Monday at the awards. It was great to shake his hand. He is the nicest guy.

How do you look in orange Crocs?
I can't pull them off. But we do all have Crocs in the Babbo kitchen. I have black Crocs. I think it would be earth-shattering if someone else came into the kitchen wearing orange Crocs. I have not encountered anyone yet bold enough to do it, and that certainly would not be me.