Gretchen Roberts has passed the introductory course at the Court of Master Sommeliers and is studying for her sommelier certification this fall. "Great wine is made in the vineyard, not in the winery." The expression may have derived from top winemakers modestly claiming to be simple helpers taking advantage of Mother Nature's hard work. Still, a winemaker makes plenty of decisions after the harvest that affect the ultimate taste and character of the wine. Chardonnay is a great example of a vino whose character is formed through decisions made in the winery.
Chardonnay-making is rather like a Choose Your Own Adventure book. Start with the fruit; where you go from there can take you to many alternate endings. A couple of decisions that drastically alter the finished product:
- Stainless steel or oak: Chardonnay fermented in stainless steel will maintain a certain liveliness. Fermented in oak barrels, however, it takes on a lush, ripe character with notes of oak and vanilla spices.
- Malolactic fermentation: Malolactic fermentation converts harsher malic acid into softer, buttery lactic acid (think milk, cream and butter). Chard that hasn't been put through this process can taste bright, fresh and wildly acidic.
A standard New World Chardonnay used to be lush, ripe, heavily oaked and buttery-smooth from malolactic fermentation. New York winemakers have abused oak in the past, causing an ABC (Anything but Chardonnay) backlash. In response to this, some winemakers aren't just going easy on the oak but are going sans oak altogether, also skipping malolactic fermentation to make a wine that's young, lean, fresh and appealing.
One excellent example is the Clos LaChance 2008 Glittering-Throated Emerald Chardonnay from Monterey, which smells and tastes like a freshly cut ripe pineapple with its zing of acidity and heady tropical notes. The 2007 was popular with reviewers, and the 2008, just released, will no doubt also do well, with the tropical fruits and flowers of California Chardonnay but without the toasty oak or buttery effects from malolactic fermentation.
Unoaked Chardonnays are often more food-friendly than their oaked counterparts. Try one with grilled fish, roasted chicken, steamed mussels, or assorted cheeses.
How do you drink your Chardonnay? Vote in the poll below!
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