'Frank Stitt's Southern Table' - Cookbook Spotlight

by Rebecca Flint Marx, Posted Apr 20th 2009 @ 2:00PM

'Frank Stitt's Southern Table: Recipes and Gracious Traditions from Highlands Bar and Grill'

Recipes by Frank Stitt

Photographs by Christopher Hirsheimer

Artisan -- 2004
Buy it at Amazon

Frank Stitt arguably put Birmingham, Ala., on the gastronomic map when he opened Highlands Bar and Grill in 1982. His food marries traditional Southern recipes with the classic French techniques he learned as a young cook and has established him as one of the best chefs in America. In fact, Highlands is a finalist for this year's James Beard Best Restaurant award.

All of this translates to one darn fine cookbook. Stitt's recipes are conveniently classified by primary ingredient ("Farm Birds and Game Birds" or "And Something Sweet to Finish") and accompanied by short primers explaining their place in Southern culture. This is one of those cookbooks that even makes for good bedtime reading, with a wry, entertaining introduction by author Pat Conroy. Stitt's reflections on subjects including seasonality, history and harvest festivals are peppered throughout.

Takeaway Tips: Stitt includes substantial sections dedicated to "Basics" and "Tools and Techniques," demystifying everything from how to clean soft-shell crabs to how to remove silverskin from cuts of meat.

Quality of Pictures: Gorgeous. You'd be forgiven for licking the pages.

We tested: Highlands Baked Grits.

Stitt's grits do for ground corn what Photoshop does for most celebrities. In his hands they become classic comfort food with a modern, spicy twist courtesy of dried red chiles and sherry vinegar. Stitt recommends using traditional, slow-cooking grits. While the idea of stirring them for an hour before baking them in individual ramekins is a daunting one, it's well worth the extra effort. Good things, after all, come to those who wait, and these rich, creamy beauties served Parmesan sauce, wild mushrooms and strips of ham are no exception.

Worth the Investment: Good gracious, yes.

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Reader comments (Page 1 of 1)

4-20-2009 @7:51PM Bill G said... This is indeed a great cookbook. The slab-bacon stuffed roast pork loin and sweet potato and ricotta ravioli are fantastically good. I've met Frank Stitt and got him to autograph my copy; he's a delightful man, very friendly and personable.
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