Before I moved to New York, I generally thought that the proper cheese for most Latin American foods was Monterey Jack. While my local Mexican restaurant occasionally sprinkled a feta-like concoction on top of my beans, I assumed that it was some sort of seasoning, more or less used in the same way that a sprinkle of parmesan, romano or peccorino is the traditional accent for Italian food.

I quickly realized that things are a bit different in Latin American communities. Outside Super Mundo, my local department store, the "Sabor de Mexico" taco truck is more or less permanently parked. While not as good as the "Miraveles de Mexico" restaurant a few blocks up, the taco truck serves some of the best burritos, tacos and flautas I've ever had. As I became a regular customer, I noticed that every dish had a nice smattering of crumbled cheese on top.

The cheese, which I learned was called either queso blanco or queso fresco, is mild, crumbly, and unaged. In texture, it is very similar to feta or Indian paneer. In fact, it's more or less made the same way; basically, it's pressed cottage cheese curds that have been drained of whey.

While not as distinctive as aged cheeses, there are actually a variety of different quesos blancos, each with subtle differences. My favorite, thus far, is probably "Cuajada Fresca Rosa," a pink cheese that is seasoned with red jalapeños and comes in a slightly oblong shape, more or less resembling a huge gnocchi. For a milder flavor, I really enjoy Quesos Chinantla's "Queso fresco en hoja de maiz," which is basically a fresh cheese round wrapped in a corn leaf.

When I can afford it, and find the required palates, I'll probably have a queso fresco taste test. In the meantime, if you see it in your local market, definitely give it a try!