Bill Niman, founder of the brand of humanely raised beef and pork that graces the menus of trendy bistros and gastropubs from San Francisco to Austin to New York, says the standards at the company have declined to the point where he will no longer eat the meat.
The current Niman Ranch owners, who gained control of the company to keep it out of bankrupcy last month, disagree. "We believe that our protocols are stronger, the auditing of the protocols more rigorous, and the current business model is more financially viable," said Niman Ranch CEO Jeff Swain, speaking to the San Francisco Chronicle.
When Niman started Niman Ranch on 11 acres of land in Bolinas, California more than 30 years ago, he implemented practices that were previously unheard of in the meat industry, such as not using growth hormones, using antibiotics only to treat illness, and giving animals free range for grazing. Those practices produced tender, well-marbled beef beloved by Bay Area chefs like Alice Waters. But they were also expensive. The company literally never made a profit.
Now, after fighting with new management over use of antimicrobials and what he felt were inhumane cattle transport policies, Niman has sold his stake in the company. Some say he suffered from classic "founders sydrome" - complete resistance to change, even reasonable change.
"I think idealism can pay," Swain told the Chronicle. "But it has to be couched with practicality."
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