Put me in a good bagel shop, and my normally adventuresome spirit will take its leave and wait outside for me to finish my perennial order of an everything or egg bagel, lox, and scallion cream cheese. This salty breakfast leaves nothing to be desired, and very rarely do I pass it up for more novel but potentially less reliable fare. This morning, though, curiosity got the better of me as I studied the menu of Goldberg's Deli and Bagels, by a long shot the best bagelry in Atlanta and probably the best one south of the Mason-Dixon line. The cinnamon-sugar matzoh brei almost tempted me, but I wanted savory, so I decided to try kippers and onions for the first time. I'm so glad I did.
Think of kippers and onions as a more hardcore cousin to lox and scallions - similar flavors, but more concentrated. A kipper is a herring that has been split down the back, brined, and hot or cold smoked (in the photo, the kippers are about to be smoked). At Goldberg's, a few kippers are grilled (probably more like griddled) alongside some diced onions. This is nothing like Scandinavian-style pickled or mustard herring. It's definitely still fishy and briney, but for me, that's hardly a deal breaker.
If you like anchovies on your pizza or your salade nicoise, you ought to give kippers and onions a sporting try. Also, the word "kipper" is pretty fun to say.
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