Before writing this piece, I checked the Slashfood archives to make sure that I wasn't repeating something that had recently been covered. I needn't have worried; while we've had a few posts on German food over the years, our coverage has tended to focus on chocolate cake, beer, and potato salad, in that order.

While unfortunate, this is totally understandable. Although once a respected cuisine, German food has fallen on hard times. Rich in flavor, it is also rich in fat and salt, and lacks the exuberant seasoning of Italian food or the light freshness of nouvelle cuisine. It is a warming cuisine for a cold climate and, with its emphasis on preserved vegetables and cheap cuts of meat, it seems out-of-place in our fast-paced, refrigerator-dependent world.

The thing is, German food is attractive, cheap, and flavorful. Easy to prepare and a pleasure to eat, it is home cooking in the most meaningful sense of the word. What's more, by reducing serving sizes, playing with accompaniments and adjusting ingredients, it is possible to enjoy the reassuring warmth of German seasoning without breaking our increasingly health-conscious American diets.

At New York's Inside Park restaurant, Chef Matthew Weingarten has been working on bringing German food more in line with contemporary American tastes. His marinated mushroom recipe, which follows, makes a great accompaniment to meat dishes like sauerbraten or tastes great by itself. Meanwhile, his sauerkraut recipe, also included below, is simplicity itself.

If you're interested in exploring German cuisine at length, there are numerous internet sites and a few good cookbooks. In my opinion, however, the classic cookbook is still Jan Mitchell's Luchow's German Cookbook. Best of all, like the cuisine, the book is cheap -- used copies are going for as little as $1!

Matthew Weingarten's Mushroom Preserves

1 pound mushrooms, cut in quarters or halves, depending on size
8 shallots, diced
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves, picked off stems
2 large bay leaves
2 fresh rosemary sprigs
1 tablespoon fresh marjoram, cut in chiffonade slivers
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
6 allspice seeds
1 clove
12 peppercorns
1/4 cup salt
1 cup fruity olive oil
2 cups water
1/2 cup aged sherry vinegar
8 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1/4 cup currants
2 tablespoons sugar

Place mushrooms, shallots, thyme leaves, bay leaves, rosemary and marjoram in a bowl. Toast fennel seeds, allspice, clove and peppercorns in a dry pan over medium heat. Add salt and warm through. Pour the toasted spice mixture over the mushrooms and gently toss.

Bring olive oil, water, vinegar, garlic, currants and sugar to a boil in a small pan. Pour this mixture over mushrooms, cover and let cool at room temperature.

Proceed with normal canning procedure or store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to three months to be used alongside roasted meats throughout the season.



Matthew Weingarten's Sauerkraut

Sauerkraut is easy to make. All you need is some cabbage, a crock, some salt, and a few weeks to let it ferment. I like to keep mine simple, flavoring it with a touch of juniper and bay leaf. Other seasoning choices are caraway seeds, rosemary, or a touch of grated apple. Either way, you are sure to end up with a wholesome pickle, packed with vitamin C, that will keep the whole winter long. At home, we even drink a little bit of the "juice" to help ward away colds throughout the season.

Equipment:
Mandoline or a very sharp knife
Pair of gloves
Ceramic crock, or heavy-gauge food-grade plastic tub
Large plate
2 small garbage bags
Cool place to store the cabbage

Ingredients:
5 pounds cabbage (about two large heads)
1/4 cup kosher salt
8 juniper berries
3 fresh bay leaves

Quarter each head of cabbage and then slice it into 1/4-inch ribbons on your mandoline or with your knife. In a large bowl, mix together the rest of the ingredients with the cabbage. Put on your gloves and massage the mix lightly until you start to see a good amount of juice being exuded from the cabbage. Pack all of this into a sterilized crock, pushing down firmly as you go. Place a heavy plate on top, and push down until the cabbage is fully submerged in the cabbage juices.

Keeping the cabbage completely submerged is what keeps the sauerkraut from spoiling. In order to achieve this, make a weight of water out of the garbage bags. Begin by filling one bag halfway with water. Tie it off securely. Place the bag inside the other bag, and tie off the outer bag. Place the bag weight on top of the plate in the crock. Voila! Your cabbage is now properly weighted.

Place the crock in a cool, non-refrigerated place for 10 to 14 days. The cabbage will continue to release liquid and the lactic fermentation, which is what makes the cabbage "sour," should begin after about 72 hours. I actually like my sauerkraut best after the fourth or fifth day, when it is half-saur kraut.

When you want to use, simply remove the bag and plate. Take out your portion with tongs, a spoon, or a gloved hand, and replace the lid and bag. Your sauerkraut does not ever have to be refrigerated. However, once it has soured to your liking, you may place it in your refrigerator to halt the pickling process.

This kraut will keep all winter long.