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Biscuit Recipe #1 - White Lily and Lard



I do not come from a biscuit making people. That's not to say that I led an entirely biscuitless youth -- just that the addition of water to a measure of Bisquick, and the joyless lumping thereof on a cookie sheet does not, what I consider a biscuit, make. Though this is a matter of great conjecture for folks from all walks, my particular biscuit paradigm is a balance of moist, fluffily layered, lard-laced innards and a crisped-up, nearly brittle top and bottom. A crunch through should grudgingly yield to a just off-sweet, pillowy, melting mass of deliciousness. With shards of salty country ham, a rich swipe of sweet butter, or just steaming hot from the oven, it's handheld heaven.

I can't make biscuits like that to save my life. In '09, that all changes.

With the aid of every cookbook, internet tip, and friends' advice at my disposal, I'm on a mission to perfect my biscuit making. I shall seek the counsel of Southern grandmothers and hound professional chefs until they begin to assail me with dough blenders. I shall become tiresome on the subject. I'm sure my husband would assert that I already have. 'Sokay -- he'll get fresh biscuits out of the deal, as will my colleagues, dogs, dog walker, friends, neighbors, cashiers, subway train drivers. Heck, I probably don't even know you, and you'll likely end up with a leftover biscuit from me.

I dig 'em with the tang of buttermilk and lard's sweet, creamy kiss, but for the sake of scientific exploration, I'll entertain alternate liquids and fats. I've been a good li'l stockpiling squirrel and plundered the shelves of several Harris Teeters and Food Lions during a recent sojurn to North Carolina so that the ingredients may possess the ideal terroir as borne by Southern flours like White Lily, Red Band and Southern Biscuit. I have chilled my lard, readied my sifting hand, and offered a small homage to the spirit of the dearly departed Edna Lewis. I am ready to begin.

This may not be my heritage, but it is my destiny.

Read on for the results of the first effort.


Not a promising start, but I am very modest in my expectations at this point. I've worked up a set of variables, which I'll document along the way in the hopes of honing in on the Biscuit X-Factor. This batch just plainly and simply didn't rise, and I shot myself in the foot by using all-purpose White Lily flour, rather than self-rising, and relying on baking soda that was perhaps just a shade past its prime. Lacking a proper biscuit cutter, I repurposed the open (and washed -- I promise) can from the previous week's dark journey into the land of brains 'n eggs, and the slicing edge was a shade dull, tamping the dough down rather than cleaving neatly through. These were biscuits with clipped wings, but hey -- I learned something.

The flavor was, on the whole, fairly pleasing, with a subtle lard-lended pork note, but two minutes too long in the oven slapped the kibosh on any chance at delicacy. Onward to vegetable shortening. Any and all advice is gratefully accepted in the comments below.

Tips culled from books and friends thus far:

- Don't overhandle the dough, as that'll result in unwanted toughness.
- 2 tbsp of baking soda added to 1/4 cup cream of tartar makes a baking soda that leavens without the slightly metallic tang of commercial baking soda. (Edna Lewis' tip to Scott Peacock from The Gift of Southern Cooking)
- Don't twist the biscuit cutter, as that will seal the sides, inhibiting rise.
- Make sure the oven is very hot -- 450 - 500 degrees.

Variables

Flour: White Lily All-Purpose
Fat: Lard
Leavening: Homemade baking powder
Sift: Yes
Liquid: Buttermilk
Treatment: Rolled and cut
Sides touching: No
Greased pan: No
Heat: 500
Time: 10 minutes

Biscuit Recipe #1
(adapted from White Lily's Light All-Purpose Flour Biscuit recipe)

2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
2 tbsp homemade baking powder*
1tsp salt
1/4 cup very cold lard
2/3 cups cold buttermilk

Heat oven to 500°F.
Sift flour and measure into large bowl. Cut in shortening with pastry blender or 2 knives until crumbs are the size of peas. Blend in just enough milk with fork until dough leaves sides of bowl.
Knead gently 2 to 3 times on lightly floured surface. Roll dough to 1/2-inch thickness. Cut using floured 2 1/2-inch biscuit cutter.
Place on baking sheet 1 inch apart for crisp sides or almost touching for soft sides.
Bake 10 minutes or until golden brown.

*Mix 1/4 cup cream of tartar and 2 tbsp baking soda and save in a glass jar for up to three months.

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